Racer X
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Everything posted by Racer X
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That is looking from the inside, with the interior panels removed.
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Wow, twenty grand for a high mileage car (at least 168,000 miles), with a recent scuff and blow paint job (and a color change), and an L28. I wonder what head it has on it. There is rust bubbling up on the cowl panel, through that two year old paint job. The leather seats are nice though. Giv s that twenty grand feel.
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Headers have that pinging sound that can make one think there is a leak. Steel tubing doesn't absorb the shock of the exhaust pulses like cast manifolds do. Or, they may just be leaking some. Your car is pretty clean, so finding evidence of leaks should be easy, just look for the streaks of carbon where the exhaust gasses are squirting out.
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Carburetor ice?
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Connect the gauge to a port on the balance bar. Your readings should then look more like those in the video AK260 posted.
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Your Z sounds nice and healthy.
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No, not yet. There are other things to look at. Like: ^^^^ What he said. ^^^^
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Have you tried replacing the GM ignition module? They do die periodically, and you mention that the car ran fine for 6 months, so get one and swap it out. I have owned several GM vehicles with that ignition module, and learned early on to keep one in the glove box, along with a screwdriver for changing it out. Saved me on more than one occasion. I also worked as a mechanic for 30 years at a local electric utility, and the fleet was mostly GM. I lost count of how many of those modules I changed out over the years.
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
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Then I would simply wipe it with some clean solvent, and then follow with a clean, dry wipe before the solvent dries, to ensure there is nothing but the fresh paint. And of course a good wet wipe, dry wipe of the rubber stuff, with the alcohol. Don't use rubbing alcohol, it has too much water in it. Get isoprpoyl alcohol. Then apply the adhesive to the car, and install the weatherstrip. If done right, the weatherstrip should bond instantly, or within a few seconds, so be sure the placement is correct.
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I would clean everywhere the adhesive will be applied. The weatherstrip side and the car side. On the car side a solvent designed to soften and remove the old adhesive would be the best, and shouldn't be harmful to the paint. A plastic scraper comes in handy here too, as it shouldn't damage the paint.
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Try cleaning the silicone off of the weatherstripping using isopropyl alcohol. Silicone is used as a release agent when making rubber products, and adhesives won't stick to it.
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Can you show us a picture of the hole?
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The stretch of highway from Denver to Fort Collins is busy, and crazy. I passed through there a few hundred times during my short stint as a flatbed truck driver. Saw plenty of weird things, like this guy who was so eager to get out on the lake he decided to launch his boat early. Guess This Isn't The Boat Launch by Racer, on Flickr
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Ever stop at Johnson's Corner and get a cinnamon roll and coffee? A heavy dose of caffeine and sugar to get you down the road.
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More like an act of civil ignorance and stupidity.
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Don't have to tell me, I live on the river. And I know which way it flows. It flows that way.
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Saturday night. On a Sunday. What a concept. I feel like I am retired.
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It is a low rise scissor lift. Not too sure about using to only lift one end of the car though, all the ones I have ever seen are a pantograph type, and the platform rises and falls parallel to the shop floor.
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When I place one of my Z cars on stands, I put the front stands under the engine crossmember, just under the lower control arm pivots. That should be far enough ahead to offset any weight unbalance.
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Another Saturday night.
