kutukutu1

Thank you Zed. Ill pull it and just rebuild it since it would already be out. Good measure on an old car anyway.

Yes, all bleeder screws on all 4 calipers are at the top. Any other suggestions?

i have 78 280z with 280zx rear disc conversion. I would have thought the 280zx conversion would not have any issues with bias since it came from a 280. My issue is that i can press the pedal about half way before i get any sort of braking happening. I can smash the pedal and the car will brake, but i cant lock all 4 tires. All 4 corner calipers have been fully rebuilt, stainless braided lines so no deformation of hoses, new bleeder screws. Use vaccum bleeder on all 4 corners multiple times and at the master cylinder. There are no leaks that i can see any where. I did see online that the wilwood master cylinder says it will solve braking bias with disc brake conversion. Is this my only solution? Is this applicable when using 280zx calipers? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks. I took the alternator to oreilly and they checked it and failed all test so I put a new one on and everything seems ok. Thanks for the help.

Thanks. I’ll check it out tonight. I might just take it off and take it to the auto parts and have them run a test on it.

Hello, I started the car the other day, it was hard to start, but it idled fine. Took it for a drive and i saw the amp meter dropping to 8 and oscillating violently as well as the car sputtered and could see the rpm dropping real low. Looked at all the ignition stuff and saw the condenser wire had broken off. I have a parts car and took the condenser form it and it still does the same thing. I am unsure of the condition of the parts car condensor, its been sitting for over 20 years. Parts are not available, i bought a 22 microfarad condenser from another car in hope to see if it works. ANy suggestion?

Yeah no threads like the r180. I really hope someone can help identify it. Sorry of pulling it from the case top look for a party number, I don't know what else to look for.

It's dead obvious in the open diff. Let's hope someone can identify it. The case number on my open diff is the same as the lsd, but clearly the internals are different. I spun it to see if it had any markings, but nothing. It also does not look like the factory clsd from nissan.

So I pulled the diff from the parts car and looked at it closely. It all makes sense and I can see the clip and groove. The lsd unit in the other diff does not have the clip groove at all. That lsd unit must be different.

Thats what I am going to do. Look at the open diff, look at the clips in the open diff and compare. Maybe nissan gave more the wrong clips. Thanks for the pic. I'll let you know what I find.

Also, I am going to assume that this being an r200, it will work with the standard stub axles and cardan joint half shafts from the original z. I have a spare car with an open diff r200. If I don't care for having cv axles, the cardan half shaft from the parts car should work on this diff,correct?

Zed, thanks for all the help you're providing. What I mean by seat, is when I put the axles in with no clips at all. There is a piece of round stock that separates both axles and that piece if you tap on it, it moves towards one side our the other. If I move it to one side, one axle does not go in all the way, and vice versa. Ill take some more pictures tomorrow. I tried today to install it with the clips, but no success. Thanks again for the help.

Well, I pulled the diff and took off the cover. It's a clutched lsd for sure. On top of the diff the numbers are 88911 N9100. I looked online but could not find what diff it is. This is a picture from the inside. If I put both axles in, if I seat one side the other side does not go all the way in and vise versa. It looks like the axles stub that goes in the diff combined length is to long.

Yes I do. Lol. Thanks for the aid. I'll post if I figure out what the hell I have.

To be honest I tried to measure inside the diff and I cant get a clear view. It also does not look like the 3rd groove I was putting the clip on matches to the axle. Again, the fact that I see no groove in the spline area is concerning. My diff just has a 392 casted on it. I know it has more numbers on top but I can't see them unless I drop the diff. I can tell it's a r200 because it has the extra metal like your pictures but the internals picture.compared to mine is titally different. I am gonna have to figure something out to identify the internals. With mine I cant see the spider gear carriage. I am thinking my diff myst be some other one. Thanks for the.pictures.

Thanks. That will help me some. To be honest I tried to measure inside the diff and I cant get a clear view. It also does not look like the 3rd groove I was putting the clip on matches to the axle. Again, the fact that I see no groove in the spline area is concerning. My diff just has a 392 casted on it. I know it has more numbers on top but I can't see them unless I drop the diff

Ok. Well you can see in the.picture there are 3 grooves on the smooth area. I am putting the clip on the 3rd groove. Then you see the spline, but no groove in the splined area. Could my diff be the one that needs the clips on the axles, but I have the wrong axles? I see no groove for the clip in the spline area, which seems to be the problem as to why it I can't get the clip on.

Also, if I grab the clip and I try to slide it into the axle groove outside of the diff, its supposed to be relatively easy to slide it into the groove, right? My clips are impossible to slide into the axle groove without using tools to get the id big enough to get it into the splines then slide it to the groove.

Ok. When I put the clip in the diff it goes into the groove, but when I push the axle in the clips comes out of the groove and ends ip just resting where the splibes begin in the diff. Is there really that little engagemnet between the diff splines and axles? Is the groove in the diff between splines? Right now I am putting it in a groove that as you move towards the center of the diff, there is smooth, no splines, groove, a bit more smooth and than the splines.

Ok so tape measure in the diff, distance to the.grrove in the diff? Then distance of groove at the axle?

Any thought in the cv axles? Are they the.correct.ones? Long one goes on passenger and short on driver side?

that's the part number I got. At least that's what the label says.

ok guys. I am stumped. I thought this clip thing was going to be easy, but its a PITA. i bought the part number from the thread from Hybridz. I put them in the diff and it kinda just dances around there. Also, the ID makes it very difficult to slip it over the axle to get to the groove. I know youre not supposed to install them on the axle first, that was just a test. When i put the clip in the diff it the axle just hits the clip and no matter how hard i push it does not click, move, nothing. Also, i dont even know what axles i have anymore, i think they might be the 280zxt. The diff seems to be the r200 CLSD type, it looks just like the whitehead performance CLSD with another diff cover to mount it to the 280z. What axles is this supposed to run? Please help, i am out of ideas as to why the clip does not work and the axle does not fit in. 1st pic-Clip on axle, you can see it would be hard for it to slip all the way to the groove 2nd pic- Diff, passenger side, no clip 3rd pic-Diff, passenger side clip With the clip installed, i slide the axle in and it moves the clip to rest all the way against where the splines begin in the diff.\ Also, as you can see, you cannot see all the way thru the diff, there is a piece of metal in there, that piece moves in there if you tap on the axle. It seemed really far towards the driver side and the axle looked like it did not go all the way in (no clip installed). I taped it with a hammer and it moved in further.

maybe a fracture in the ceramic?