David F

Finally was able to drive the car significantly since the distributor change out. New problem is severe missing at part throttle cruising...even the tack jumps around. Disconnecting the vacuum advance solved the problem. I used the dual points advance and am now thinking I need to use the single point advance.

Yep, no wire. Thanks

Wanted to share a story related to the ignition system of my 5-speed converted '72 automatic 240z: Shortly after I purchased my car, I converted from automatic to 5 speed. Left the dual points distributor alone except for changing the points, condenser, and cap. Car ran ok, but I had to dial in a lot of timing advance to keep the engine from backfiring through the carbs when cold. Car ran seemingly fine all winter with an occasional misfire condition in warmer weather with warmer engine temp...never could figure out why. Fast forward many months and I decided it was time to get rid of the dual point distributor. So, I found a used single point distributor on Ebay and did a complete cleaning/refurbish. My vacuum advance from the dual point setup seemed to operate better, so I used it. Dropped in the distributor, and engine ran horribly with severe missing, rough idle, low power, knocking noise, etc. Sometimes the symptoms went away and the engine ran smooth with a higher idle. Uh oh, what did I do/what's wrong? Messed with it for a few days before the light came on...I grabbed the distributor while the engine was running and wiggled it. Yep, when I wiggled it, it would change from running poorly to running well. Pulled the distributor and cleaned/sanded all the mounting bolt points. That did the trick. No more running like pooh, no more missing, no more knocking noise...Just smooth running. And the best part...cold start drivability is so much better. Just wanted to share in case others have similar issues.

I am adding a/c to my '72 and just starting the process. I too looked at Ebay for the Sanden 508 compressor and noticed that most, if not all, of the compressors were "Sanden style"...meaning knockoff's. I don't think you are going to get a real Sanden 508 for much less than $199. Your bracket setup looks good, but I decided to just make a bracket from steel plate and the Sanden universal bracket arms that Vintage Air sells. I believe the Sanden will run R-12, but if you go R134a, you need to flush the system and the oils will not mix and the mineral oil will pool at the low spots and reduce efficiency. Others have covered this well. Also, might be worth upsizing the condenser if space permits as R134 is not as efficient as R12 in shedding latent heat, so you need all the condenser you can get. Installing an electric pusher in front of the condenser will help as well. Just because you open the system does not mean you need to change the drier (but you should if changing refrigerants). Pulling a vacuum on the system will boil the moisture out unless the ambient temp is really low. Long vacuum periods will ensure all the moisture is pulled out.

Love the exhaust...what did it cost all in?

When I converted from auto to manual, I used the shifter that came with my 79 ZX trans. The shifter did not have the correct bend so it would not work at all. I heated it up and put about 1" rearward curve/bend in it. It sort of worked, but would pop out of 3rd and 5th often. I sourced the correct shift lever and all issue were resolved. So, your shift lever should have a pronounced rearward bend. Does it?

I just added the MSA (genuine Nissan) shims to my car and all the noise is 100% cured. I purchased 4 shims, all the same, and simply inserted two of the shims in the vise and bent the tabs in the other direction. No need to cut or break them off. It is so easy, it makes sense that one "side" is currently manufactured.

Good job...I could not get that pin out and did not have the hole in my case to use a drift. My input shaft is noisy while in neutral with clutch engage, so eventually I will send to trans specialist and get a full rebuild..including the shift rod seals.

I think a little more static timing advance will solve the carb backfiring issue when cold. Give it a try.

A word of caution if you open up the trans....it is tricky to get the shift fork rods and shifter mechanism to mate up properly. I purchased a used late seventies 5 speed off Ebay (wide ratio due to my automatic differential gearing) and upon receipt I could not move the shifter...uh oh. I opened up the case, replaced the seals and everything seemed to be fine inside the trans. Upon reassembly, I apparently made the same mistake and could not shift gears. Opened it up again and made sure I got the shift rods and shifter lever to mate up properly and all was well. It was a frustrating. Otherwise, good luck...should be straight forward swap.

Soda blasting. Hot tank dip the block.

Butt weld is better, but I would not worry about it too much at this point (thick metal). But, I would seam seal the back side to help keep moisture out.

Maybe, maybe not. For me, not so much. Worked fine and was spot on for the front carburetor (long valve), but was way off for rear carb (short valve). The fuel level in the rear carb had to be set significantly higher on my engine for proper tuning. Hard to say what has changed with the carbs over the years that make one method work or not work. For instance the fuel bowl indexing bushing could be wrong for the position (front or rear carb) which could affect how fuel level in the bowl correlates to the level at the nozzle. In the end, the fuel level at the nozzle is the only thing that matters so why not check the level where it matters and forget the other dubious methods.

Test fuel mixture settings with both carbs connected to fuel supply. If the engine stumbles and slows when the rear carb piston is lifted, then it is lean. A lean condition can be caused by low fuel level (bowl) or a vacuum leak. Have you checked for large vacuum leaks at the throttle shafts? Spray carb cleaner at the shaft bushings when the engine is running. If the rpm goes up significantly, here could be the problem. If the carb is sucking air in at the throttle shafts, it won't suck in much fuel from the nozzle.

Are you checking mixture at each carb by slightly lifting each piston to see how the idle changes? I am guessing that the engine immediately slows and stumbles on the rear carb (lean). If so, set the fuel level higher.

Well, what do you expect and please tell us why you are evening showing photos of the inverted float position. Like we have been saying, it means nothing as the parts are NOT the same as when that method had any validity, if ever. I can tell you that with the float that high off the lid, when inverted, you are not even close. Really, you need to listen to everyone and simple adjust to 1/16" below top of nozzle at 2.5 turns down. Start with the float just off the lid...maybe 1/8" and go from there. As before, I suggest you remove the sealing washer between the needle valve body and lid.

Just do an internet search on "3898 bulb" and you will get a lot of choices. Yes, it is a BA7S base. Eiko 3898 is a good example. Never heard of a glass "bottom" lamp. But, the metal base ("bottom") is the correct choice. Also, you can search for "VW bug, beetle, super bus, karmann ghia dash bulb" or, search "n177222" All will give you the same answer as I did by simply responding "3898".

3898

Over at Barn Find: https://barnfinds.com/rare-garage-find-1966-ferrari-275-gtb-long-nose-alloy/

Forget measuring the float position relative the bowl lid...it does not work. Remove the sealing washer from under the needle valve body to give more range of adjustment. Bend tab until fuel level is 1/16" below top of nozzle set at 2.5 turns down...just like most everyone is telling you to do. If float hits lid when inverted, that is ok as fuel shut off occurs prior to end of range of motion. Confirm by blowing through inlet and moving float slowly to ensure fuel shut off actually does occur prior to float hitting lid.

Looks lean. If fuel level was set correctly, I don't think you would need to be 4 turns down (I don't like clockwise or counter clockwise as it is specific to point of view). To me, clockwise is up or lean, but I think you mean clockwise as down/rich. So, have you removed the pistons and verified fuel is 1/16" down from top of nozzle at 2.5 turns down/out/rich? If not, why not? From there, fine tuning should get you darn near perfect with one turn of nozzle adjustment in either direction.

So, all this talk about fuel level made me go recheck mine. Especially since I set the rear carb the same as the front using the clear tube method. Removing the pistons and looking at the top of the fuel relative to top of nozzle, the front was perfect and the rear was way low. So, working on the rear, I set the float so that it was about 1/8” from hitting the cover when inverted. Rechecked fuel level and still not even close (ie 1/16” from top of nozzle). Turns out the tang needed to be bent so that float hit top of lid, when inverted. But, this is okay as fuel shut off occurs prior to float hitting lid. Now all is good, both fuel levels set to 1/16” down on 2.5 turns. Fine tune required leaning front and enriching rear...no more than .5 turns for each. I am hoping cold start is vastly improved. 2/26/18 update: Cold start is vastly improved. But, I will need to wait until the temps are in the 30's to know for sure. Also, engine "bucking" when cold and under load has been eliminated. Rear carb was WAY too lean...explains alot.

I experienced ocassional fuel bowl overflow. I attributed the issue to less than optimal float tang geometry. The modern valve stem design does not glide on the tang as easily as the original design as has been said in this thread previously. My solution was to remove the sealing washers from the base of the fuel valve body to lid/inlet port. Once I did that, tang to valve geometry is improved and issue went away.

Timing? Advance a little and see how she responds

It is possible you bent the yoke like I did. Make sure you use a supporting spacer while pressing in the caps. The yoke ears definitely will bend and become closer together.