David F

Not sure what you are talking about, so I think not. needles look like any other to me.

My carburetor rebuild kits came from MSA and included one long and one short needle valve body in each kit.

I have purchased a random part or two from them in the past. I think they list a lot of the stuff on Ebay. They shipped fast from what I remember and part quality was good.

Don't just crank it, start it up and let her run. Since you are using the drain plug for the clear tubing, I would put a loop in the tubing so you can hold it right up against the float bowl. Liquid seeks its own level, so the loop wont make any difference. Also, I purchased carb rebuild kits not too long ago...maybe 6 months and it came with a long and short float valve...so not sure why people are saying you cannot get them any longer. I think the photo (just above) of the float horizontal with the lid inverted is going to result in a very low fuel level in the bowl. For me, the floats come very close to hitting the top of the lid.

Measuring with the lids inverted will only give you a starting point. To fine tune, I find it best to use clear tubing on the bowl outlet nipple and holding up next to the float bowl exterior that has been marked 23mm down form the lid/bowl joint. I know this has already been said, but I fooled around with multiple methods before using this simple approach only to find out all my previous attempts resulted in close but no cigar. My car runs awesome but is a B**ch to start when cold...contemplating adding an electric pump: Airtex 8016S

I bet you will be fine. I drive my ‘72 dailey by choice (weather permitting), not necessity. My BMW F10 550i is getting jealous. Enjoy these cars.

I plan on doing the same thing to my 72 when summer approaches. However, I plan on saving the heater assembly for any future owner who might want to put everything back to original. You might want to consider the same.

Back to the floats hitting the bottom of the lid or a less than optimum relationship between needle valve stem and float tang. I simply eliminated the needle valve body sealing washer, thereby "raising" the valve assembly and helping with the float tang geometry and float position when valve closes. I used a mark on the outside of the float bowls (both 23mm down) and clear tubing in place of bowl to nozzle hose to check level while engine running (engine ran on one carb during test). Sparks plugs all have same color (so front and back three cylinders getting similar amounts of fuel).

Dyna-mat...ugh! Amazes me that anyone, other than the car shows that are getting paid to use the stuff, would use Dyna-mat given how proud they are of the product. There are a few alternate sources of essentially the exact same material (i.e. butyl based, heat resistance, sound deadening properties, etc.). Another good example would be GTMAT.

Yep, Precision #393 from O'Reillys is what I tried to install. The fit was definitely tighter than original. Could have been due to me start them at an angle. Seems like was pressing them straight, but who knows. The original came out fine and I was only replacing it due to a slight notchy feel on center. I think a bit of new grease and the new relative position of the bearing cap and the original would have been fine. Again, lesson learned. But, I did the same with the driveshaft and had zero issues. I could probably fabricate a contraption that would allow me to open up the ears with my press, but at this point, $75 is the easiest solution. If both shafts have bad u-joints, I will remove the original u-joints and replace with original. All this happened because I am rebuilding the rear end (somewhat). Isn't that the way it always happens...while I am at it, I might as well replace.... Anyway, new struts, strut isolators, rubber spacers, and bushings. The spindle pin/bushes seem rock solid/tight, so decided not to worry about fighting the spindle pin. What I found upon disassembly was a completely loose bushing end bolt (the large bolt that keeps the control arm from rotating in the bushing...probably the main source of the noise. Last major project, getting close....

I will chalk this one up to lesson learned. If the used replacement half-shaft need new u-joints, I will definitely fabricate a support spacer from pipe or whatever. The original u-joint pressed out seemingly as easy as any other I have replaced, but the new u-joint was a bear and I am sure I bent the yoke pressing in the new caps. Ugh is all I have to say, but it won't be the last or most expensive screw-up I ever do while working on cars. If you wrench as much as I do, it inevitably happens. Just learn the lesson and move on.

Not sure I bent it or not, but the retainer clip grove in the caps are not parallel to the surface of the ear. And, the new u-joint is definitely in a bind which tells me the ears are bent. Two used half-shafts on the way for $75 total. I hope at least one has good u-joints.

Well, I failed at replacing the stub axle end u-joint on one of my half-shafts. I easily removed the original u-joint. But, the Precision brand #393 did not cooperate. I suppose I used too much force pressing in the caps and bent the flange ears. Should have used a spacer (to keep flange ears from bending) and probably measured the diameter of the caps on the replacement part. Soooo, anyone have a junk half-shaft they are willing to get rid of cheap? BTW, I have two complete axles coming from Ebay, but I want to rebuild my original shaft if I can. Thanks.

When I need to tighten a door gap, I simply add a weld bead to the edge of the door or if more is needed, weld a welding rod to edge of door. Then, grind it back to the proper gap. If I need to open a gap, I simply grind back the door edge then weld up the split seam. Drawback is that removing the skin later will be very difficult. i reccomend installimg the rear bumper without the over riders. A nice touch would be to weld up the bumper joints (make them butt joints first) and holes and remove the rubber rub strips. Then have it all chromed as a single piece. Nice and clean. i have the same issue with my hood and will need to replace before repaint. Mine is pushed far enough down that it hits the grill when opening the hood...I had to bend the top grill bar just slightly. I found this out when I replaced the grill with a nice straight unit. Great work and fun to watch. Btw, your welds look good to me...I can’t do any better.

Ugh, my 72 just developed an external coolant leak at the head near timing chain cover. So, I feel your pain. Dang!

Just because the coolant is in a Honda bottle does not mean they make it. My point is there is a lot of blue coolants available, not unique to Honda.

I doubt Honda makes their own coolant...probably just rebranded Pentosin Pentafrost NF coolant which is blue. BMW also uses blue coolant.

What a timely post, today I ordered KYB's, from Rock Auto, for my 72 along with all other suspension components needed for a full rebuild (except strut insulators which are coming from courtesy Nissan). The cost for two KYB's is $78.77. Front suspension first followed by rear a bit later. Went with Moog brand when possible.

I believe you warm the engine with the radiator cap off (so you dont have to open a hot radiator) you should be able to see bubbles in the coolant if the HG is leaking. But, a leaking head gasket will certainly cause the overheating issue...

Well, my auto to zx 5 speed is complete with the exception of confirming that the zx shifter hits the front of console. I will need to remove it and bend it into more of an s-shape. Or, if anyone has a stock 4-speed 240 shifter, I will certainly be interested.

Subscribed, my odo is not working as well.

Since water pump, rad, thermo are new then I would flush the heck out of the block (backwards, of course). Ensure you get a good flow form everywhere. Take the pump off and flush with hose nozzle directly into the block (both directions). Don't forget the heater core. And, I would flush the rad as you may have introduced scale into the radiator.

Yep, new pilot bushing installed. I say "new" because there was one already installed. The engine is not original to the car, so obviously from a manual trans donor. What I cannot understand is how the torque converter pilot engaged the crank with a bushing in place. Some of the repairs done by PO or mechanics were of questionable quality. So, I would not be surprised that someone "turned down" the TC pilot to fit the manual trans pilot bushing. Fabricating a new clutch hard line was simple enough and took maybe an hour. I purchased a 60" line from my FLAP store with the proper flare and nut size and then cut and re-flared to the final length when all bends were finalized. Hopefully this conversation is helpful to the OP, Joe, and giving him good information...I sorta feel like I am hijacking his thread.

As far as the pedal travel limit stop, I think it will be an issue that will need to be addressed. I am anticipating that I will want a positive stop so the clutch engagement is always the same distance from the floor repeatedly. And, so I can slam the clutch to the floor without worry about bending or breaking anything related to the master cylinder and/or push rod/clevis. My thought is to use a hood stop bumper drilled and mounted through the floor with a few heavy (fender?) washers sandwiching the floorboard for stability. the hood bumper stop should be large enough to not worry about the pedal arm missing the target and adjustable as well. We shall see.

I started my auto to manual conversion on my 72 this past weekend. Got the auto removed and the manual installed...still need to connect all the ancillary stuff. To address or confirm some of the stuff in above posts (as I remember them). the passenger side auto wiring is for neutral/park safety switch and backup lights. Drivers side wiring is for kick-down solenoid (not needed with manual trans). Neutral safety wiring gets connected together and backup light goes to switch in manual trans. I am using a '79 280zx five speed with a 9" flywheel and clutch (in lieu of 8-7/8"). The automatics had extra sheet metal spot welded to the bottom side of the normal (manual) shifter opening. Simply follow the original hole outline to trim away the metal that is no longer needed (at front end of hole). Dimples are in the sheet metal that corresponds with the holes in the shift boot retaining ring. I chose to drill and tap (for 4mm x .70 machine screws) the doubled up sheet metal rather than using sheet metal screws (hard to get through double layer of metal). 240z master cylinder and slave are installed...used 240z slave to hopefully ensure proper clutch fork throw. A 240z master cylinder is mandatory as the 280zx master has the mounting ears in the wrong position. Hydraulic line is bent and installed in original rubber clamps along with brake and fuel line (simply drilled additional holes in rubber clamp blocks). Clutch and brake pedals are installed. To finish: Install shift lever and rubber boots. Install console with shift gator. Install transmission mount and support (trans still supported with jack as I am waiting on new transmission mount). Bleed MC/slave. Install starter motor (I hear the automatic starter will work with manuals). Connect wiring. Replace driveshaft u-joints and install drive shaft. One u-joint is notchy. Smile. Things that have me puzzled. One bell housing bolt is longer than the other three and it took some investigation time to figure out where it went...I determined (hopefully correctly) that it went on drivers side lower. The automatics do not have the clutch pedal travel limit stop welded to the the floor board/firewall. Is this needed? Should have the trans all buttoned up by end of this coming weekend.