David F

I think the "vacuum block" mounted to the inner fender (below the coil) is part of the fuel vapor recovery system and leads to the fuel vapor tank mounted in the right side quarter panel. I am relatively new to Z's so mileage may vary.... Also, FYI, BSPT plugs can be found at McMaster-Carr in several different metals (i.e. brass, aluminum, steel) and configurations (i.e. hex, hex socket, square).

Update: I failed at finding all the pinholes and welding them up. Welding of pinholes just created more pinholes. So, I welded in metal patches at larger holes and ignored pinholes. The tank leaked like a sieve. So, I stripped all the paint from the tank and applied a coat of epoxy resin over the entire tank exterior. This plugged all pinholes and allowed me to acid wash the interior of the tank. Next step is to line the tank with Red Kote. But, I found a tank on Ebay from a salvage yard and purchased it for $350. The reasoning is that I am concerned about the integrity of my rotted tank in the event the car gets rear ended. The metal is so thin, that I think will easily rupture instead of folding/bending in the event of collision. Bad news is that I spent probably 32 manhours on the tank so far. Hope the Ebay tank is in much better shape. 6/19/17 update: Received the Ebay tank and it was in decent shape apart from a few dents in the bottom. Took soap, TSP, Acetone, and gasoline to get the old fuel and gunk out of the tank but afterwards, the inside was in decent shape. The metal is solid. So, the original tank that I ultimately got leak free is going in the trash as I feel it is too unsafe to attempt to sell or even give it away. One more Z tank gone.

Still trying to salvage mine. Welded in patches, welded up pin holes, etc. Filled with water/acid solution and it leaked like a sieve. So, stripped all the paint off the tank and covered the entire tank with thickened epoxy resin (did bottom half, have top have to do). Afterwards, I will acid wash again and line with Red Kote...time will tell if this works. But, regardless, the metal is very thin in places...not ideal. Bought one today on Ebay for $350 just in case.

I have decided to attempt to repair my tank...I definitely may fail. So far, I have been concentrating on the more difficult places on the top side of the tank. I have welded in a few patches and have tried to weld up smaller holes. I have probably used a 1/4 of my wire spool chasing thin metal. So, basically replacing rotted metal with weld wire metal. It gets tricky when doing this near the leaded in pick-up/vent tubes. Almost done with the top side... So, I have to weld up all the holes before I can even attempt to acid wash the interior of tank which will more than likely open up new holes and then back to the welding...ugh!

I'm interested

Not sure if posting this request here is allowed, but I need a fuel tank. The tank in my '1972 240Z, that was stored 15 years prior to my purchase, is Swiss Cheese. Started welding in patches, but I think it is a futile exercise as the metal is thin. I fear that when I acid wash, more holes will surely show up. So, anyone have a salvageable fuel tank they want to sell?

The tank in my newly acquired (stored 15 years) 1072 240z is Swiss Cheese. Anyone have a tank in salvageable condition to sell me?

not all "total loss" cars have salvage titles. If you get paid off by the insurance company and buy the car back from them directly, your title remains unblemished. But, Carfax (or similar) will report the car as a "total loss" vehicle. That is how it works in TX anyway, I am sure other states may differ.

Headed to Dallas tomorrow to pick up my Z! Yippee. The quote from my B-I-L: "Hey man, come get this Z before I start restoring it". Have to oblige.

Agreed, the SU's will stay. My BIL says it is a solid car and wanted to buy it from me if I did not want it. No way, I have been looking off and on for a Z for years now. Can't wait to jump in.

I have owned my 1972 240Z for a little over 6 weeks now (Dallas, TX Craiglist add featured on BAT) and still have not laid eyes on it. My B-I-L did the inspection, purchase and storage for me until I finish my 1967 Airstream Caravel restoration and get up to Dallas (from Austin) to take it off his hands...can't wait. http://bringatrailer.com/2017/03/13/stored-15-years-promising-1972-datsun-240z/ I have already purchased an early wide ratio (due to 3.54 gears) 5 speed and all the other necessary auto to manual conversion pieces. just need to get it home....

Never try to sand base coat. Clear over any trash and most dust/bugs will be invisible after sanding and polishing clear coat.

An air powered sanding file is my tool of choice for the initial shaping of the plastic filler. After that, it is all done by hand with appropriate shaped sanding blocks an various wood trim moulding shapes.

On a car as small a Z, the work is not that bad all things considered. A few years ago, I was at this stage with my '52 Chevy 3100. Now, that was a chore. I also question the use of fiberglass reinforced filler. Not necessary with modern fillers and I am sure you are not laying it on thick. Good luck on your task and progress as I am sure it will be stunning in the end given your attention to detail.

Well, I am the same boat...I purchased a '72 (112 yellow) auto in wonderfully preserved original condition (with a cheap re-spray). My first inclination is to swap out the auto for a manual after I clean the fuel system and go through the brakes. I believe the VIN does not indicate much of anything other than type, year, and build sequence. So, the if the conversion is done thoroughly with period parts, then no one will know if you don't tell them. Thoroughly means distributor, wiring, etc. For me, I plan to make the switch just for the fun of driving the car the way it was intended when it was manufactured. Also, I plan to add rear disc brakes, Toyota front calipers, wheels, headers, exhaust, delete emissions controls, and add a/c. Everything I do will be reversible and I will save all the parts. My only conundrum is whether to go with a 4 or 5 speed. 4 speeds are easy to find, not so much for the '81-'83 5 speeds.