David F

Update: Last night, tach was not working. This morning, tach is working seemingly normal (not sure if/how accurate). So, cracked solder joints at tach? Poor connection somewhere. I guess I am going to have to find the time to troubleshoot in detail...I just hate getting under the dash.

Wow, that seems crazy. Yesterday, I had to pull my manifold as one of the air tubes rusted through. Time to cut them off and weld shut. Not even going to try and remove them.

Thanks, the seat back “Brackets” were virtually rust free even where no plastic was found. Your right, no way of telling if old seat covers were original, but vents were proper, horse hair, one layer of glue as would be expected in places, etc.

I am in the process of recovering my original seats (covers) on my '72. The Driver's side did not have the clear plastic pieces, but the passenger side had them on the seat back only. I am assuming the pieces were removed at one time or another. Not really sure of the purpose.

Qz16: My plan is not original to me and has been done before, see below:

Nice work. I have been planning to install the Gen2Mini for some time now and also plan to keep the Z control panel. But, I will retain the original levers and simply mount the new control mechanism on brackets that are operated by short connecting rods from the original levers. I also want to use the Z rotary fan control, but not sure that will work. If I have to use Vintage Air's rotary fan speed control, I hope I can find a way to mount the original control knob. Good job...just goes to show there is more than one solution to most problems.

I watched most of the build and enjoyed the process. I think the stock interior had to go as they pushed the engine well into the cabin...most of it is behind the front axle. His next build is repairing/modding a totaled GTR. I'll watch.

I know the coils have resistance, I simply meant it was the correct coil that requires a ballast resistor and thus does not have built in “additional” resistance to protect the points. the coil that has been in car for past year or more and several thousand miles with working tach...and the one the tach died on measures; 1.3 ohms (or up to 1.8 ohms...reading is difficult to get stable and seemed to settle on 1.3 ohms) on primary coil and 8.23 k ohms secondary coil.

Well, that wasn’t helpful...

Thanks. But, ballast wires not disturbed between working and not working. Jumper across ballast makes not difference. I think the voltage sensing circuitry in the tach might be the culprit.

Appreciate the offer. Sure would like to figure out why the one I have is acting up. But, if no luck, I might take you up on your offer. I have had the tach out once before to change out the lamps. Long ago I labeled the coil wires + and - so I would not have to worry about swapping them inadvertently. So, I have them installed as labeled when the tach worked fine.

Tach worked fine on new coil for months. Re-installed OEM type coil and no difference. Neither coil had any internal resistance and requires the ballast resistor. I can provide resistance measurements across the primary winding.

Sorry, 72 240z. Condenser replaced, ballast resister wiring checked. Not much you can screw up wiring wise. No electronic ignition.

My tachometer recently decided to stop working correctly. It all started after a long day of driving... got home shut the car down and restart was difficult, once started, car died. I put it away to diagnose later. Subsequently, I pulled the distributor, changed the condenser and coil. Upon restart, I notice the tachometer was reading about 300 rpm when actual was about 900 rpm. Revving the engine and the tach will only display a maximum of about 1000 rpms. I cannot find any obvious fault. Anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot, or is it more than likely that my tachometer finally died? Can the tachometer be repaired readily?

Yes, I kept the sun visor...just could not force myself to (re) drill holes in the A-pillar to mount it. Plus, my son did not like it and we rebuilt the truck so he could drive it to high school...which he did. Really sorry, Jeff, for contributing to taking your thread off topic. Been following your videos from the beginning and you are doing a great job.

Oh good, were sharing photos of trucks! Here are my two classics: From this... To this... And the other one yet to receive beauty tips...

Good luck...hope you figure something out. I'm the same boat with my car and the rear defroster is the only non-functioning part on my '72.

I probably have one or two of the bushing the OP is looking for? Please PM me...I am terrible remembering this stuff, so if you want it, keep trying to get a hold of me. It also looks like he clevis pin hole needs to be welded up a re-drilled.

Aha, missed that one. ?

Late reply to one of your painting videos where you attempt to ‘cut” off a paint run. Instead of trying to slice off the run, the preferred method is to scrape it off. Put a small piece of tape covering the razor blade edge at each end of the blade...so the end of the blade does not dig in. Then hold the blade perpendicular to the body/paint run and gently scrape off the run. Color sand flush, polish, perfection.

When I adjusted the bumper on my '72, I simply added a SS washer or two between the bumper and bracket. First, I straightened the bumper mounting tabs and bracket to what I thought seemed correct and best fitting of bumper and bracket. The holes on the quarter panel were sufficiently oversized as to not cause fitment issues to the best of my recollection. For my car, one side need the spacer washers, the other side was fine. Also, I am positive my bumper is not the original bumper and that a small rear end tap had occurred sometime in the past prior to my ownership...so, your mileage will vary.

I have one along with ALL the other parts related to the automatic trans...including the transmission in excellent working order. Make an offer plus about $15 shipping. If memory serves, the chrome end cap ring probably does not look much like chrome any longer.

I easily removed auto and replaced with manual on '72 with engine staying put. I cannot imagine that the '73 would be any different.

Oh, it will probably rust. I am guessing the bumpers are SS plated steel. Just like the "stainless steel" grills you can buy at Walmart or Sam's Club. Still, the prices is attractive and my OEM bumpers are way less than perfect. Edit: As previously mentioned, I would be concerned that the stainless steel scratches very easily. After all, chrome is way harder than stainless.

Website says they are $125/ea