Mojos 72z

Thanks for the information. I will check on it.

And the winner is...EuroDat. Replaced the clutch release bearing to a taller 5 speed one and it works. Thanks for all the responses.

Well, what I meant to say was the parts used with the 4 speed (fork, collar and bearing) I transferred over to the 5 speed transmission not knowing that the collar may need to be changed to a taller collar. I have removed the rubber dust seal off and appears to be oil free. The slave is relatively cheap so I may go ahead and change that out before pulling out the collar.

I'm using the same pressure plate, fork and collar that was used when the car had the 4 speed in it. The collar and fork operated fine when installed in the 5 speed and I never gave it a thought that there could be various sized collars. Sound like that may be the problem. Thanks for the information and I will post on my progress.

Have a 72 and recently swapped a 5 speed in for my 4 speed. Car worked fine prior to the switch and the 5 speed was known to be fine. Switch went well but find a problem with engaging gears. 5 speed smoothly shifts gears when the engine is off but with the engine started I cannot shift into gear. There is a slight grinding of reverse gear when I try to put it into reverse. If I shift into a forward gear with the car off then start it, I do get the car to jump meaning the car is in gear. Using the same master and slave cylinder and last thing I have done is bled the fluid. When pressing on the clutch pedal I get the clutch fork to move about a 1/4 inch. Using same fork and bearing from the 4 speed. Have a firm clutch peddle. Have tried adjusting the slave cylinder pin. Any thoughts?

I am misreading the GCR sentence, that just the pulley for the crankshaft can be changed and also the alternator pulley. I see that I would need to stay with the current stock model. Thanks for pointing that out.

Chuck, Midwestern Council's GCR says the same thing but when it states an alternate may be used doesn't the now allow for an undated one wire GM alternator with an internal VR? With the current 40 year alternator installed might be best to change it before the season and also not having to worry about hooking up the old VR correctly.

Chuck, Thanks for the quick response. From other photos I'm sure it is an original alternator and with removing all the original wiring I will need to investigate how to rewire the regulator in if I need it. I guess an alternative would be to replace with an alternator with an internal volt reg. l'm located in Wisconsin and plan to run both IT and vintage. Have a second '72 with an '82 turbo.

Purchased a 72 race car that had been using the original Z wiring. I am in the process of rewiring by removing all original wires and replacing with new. My only elec. components are elec. fan behind the radiator, gauges, rear lights, fuel pump, ignition, cool suit and the original defrost/heater blower. So far three questions: 1. There is a single wire attached to the center of the brake pressure differential located just below the front brake booster. Is this needed? 2. I believe the car still has the original alternator. One wire from a elec. post labeled "E", one wire from a post labeled "A" and a T plug with two wires. Is all I need to do is attach the "E" wire to a ground, "A" wire to the positive post on the starter and the T plug disregard? Should I replace the alternator with an upgrade? 3. Do I need the voltage regulator? Thanks for any help.