FlyingScot

Thank you - rougher than I expected in some ways, better in others. Either way want to make this a car I can have fun with for 20 years so will immediately do the job "right" rather than kick can down the road. The Battery and rockers look good now - lets see once the paint is shot off down to the primer/metal. For your DSI stage III - do you have detonation problems with the compression? That is the one thing giving me pause going from II to III. I want reliability and something I can tune / work on myself. Car will drive around South Florida and at times tour around Florida.

So - still getting my garage sorted and planning in place. I've made a few initial decisions that will determine which direction I take on this build: I'm going to get the engine rebuilt rather than redo it myself. 2 reasons. 1)Time - I will need the time to take apart and reassemble the entire car and building an engine alongside that is just another task 2)Skills / Results. I'm a fair mechanic but don't have the tools or experience to deliver on an engine package the same way some builders do. I'm seriously giving thought to DSI STR stage I or II with their ITB package. Clean engine bay, just need to find a way to tune down here and confirm Megasquirt is what I want. Fits in my budget (sort of - don't tell the wife) and would deliver on a lifetime of fun NA is where I'm staying, won't be a race car at most light fun autoX. Restomod is target. I want to personalize this a bit so staying strictly stock is not target - but neither is going crazy with body kits, paint, or suspension mods. As noted, staying with current suspension just updated with basics. No coilover. Fender mirrors (I know, no one likes - I do), CF BRE air dam on stock 280z valance,MSA CF 240z bumpers and CF rear spoiler. Black trim replacing chrome. Interior will have diamond leather on tunnel, leather door cards and leather seats. Either Interior innovations or local. Paint & Body. I'm taking this down to a rolling chassis then turning over to a shop to fix the 3 rust patches and take it down to bare metal. Still trying to decide what level of tear down - meaning do I keep the dash in, wiring looms, and brake lines but strip everything else? Keeping original color (307) - what have others done / looking for guidance? I want to do this "right" but not add work where I don't need to. So - questions for the group: Anyone have any comments on getting a built engine from DSI vs. having someone like Shamrock do the engine? Knowing I am moving away from the stock EFI Removing dash, wiring, and brake lines would help ensure a good paint / body work. Can you get wiring looms for these cars today? I've run brake lines before and was pretty straightforward - any gotchas with the Z? Gotchas, advice, etc. as I start on this? A bit of a planner/engineer so always "game" out my projects before starting - find it helps me move faster, cheaper (rework) and deliver on better quality. Looking to start teardown with engine pull in June - then moving on to rest of car. Want to be able to send rolling chassis to paint/body in August and then reassemble through the fall.

Well, picked the car up today - backstory can be found here. 1977 280z built 3/77. Need to figure out a plan, but after going through the car for 2 hours I'm cautiously optimistic. The car is rougher than I remember, but it is 40 years old. Paint is just ok - some parts were resprayed but poorly. Found out it got scratched up in the garage during hurricane Andrew. Could not find any heavy bondo magnet and tapping Fires right up, cold compression (6->1) is 130, 140, 140, 133, 135, 137, 135 Underside, frame rails and floor pans look perfect. It was coated years ago and did its job only a few small areas of surface rust such as by radiator- but very minor Dash and trim is perfect - a lifetime of low miles (50,800 not rolled) and garage kept all the parts, spare tire and kit/jack. new clutch, injectors, distributor cap partial new exhaust But - always a but, right? - a few things immediately clear: It really needs the current paint - original and respray - taken off and done right I have 3 small areas of deep rust that need to be cut, patch welded - both lower rear sills right behind the doors. No idea why there. And right under the gas cap. But all 3 need to taken care of. Engine has had an EGR delete from long ago interior is shot - rougher than looks in pictures. Interior plastic trim has aged badly and color faded. Problem with the off white scheme brake booster is dead, but no brake fluid rust hole under it - yet drum brakes not working braking? Make a wish because you are not stopping some electrical gremlins AC not working I think seeing all of this I've just about decided to pull engine, windows, interior and get the rolling chassis stripped and painted right. "Because I'm there..." recondition head, and check cylinders - decide what to do after that, see if I want or need to do bottom end too. I was going to do suspension and brakes and drive a bit but now think I'll sprint to disassembly and paint goal will be mostly stock but with carbon bumpers, black satin Konig rims, maybe BRE spook in CF. Interior may be black leather with 240z diamond pattern on tunnel. Goal is refreshed but nothing crazy - already have Eibachs, Tokico Illuminas, and bushing kits. Rims 16x7 with 205/55. Keep rear drums but front going to Toyota 4 pot. With minimal bodywork needed ( crossed fingers) hope to have complete by Xmas. At least that is the rough plan for now. Not crazy but no expense (reasonable) spared to make this "right". Now to find a good body and paint shop in Boca Raton / Ft. Lauderdale. Pics below. Comments, suggestions, questions. Still deciding on this one.

Be great to have help this weekend - I'm grinding the concrete floor in the garage and putting down the RockSolid Copper Metallic flooring . Very excited - haven't seen the car in a few years and now it is mine! The ZX wheels will be coming off in next month, along with all the other projects. Curious how quickly I'll pick up working on this - the first time you work on a new car or do something it takes 4x as long as the second time. That rule seems to hold on every vehicle and boat I've worked on. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The Z is leaving Texas bound for Florida! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'll be clear - my dad has taught me so much and has helped me the most when I need it. I learned to MacGyver from him. He comes from an era of Model T tubs hot rodded out - what we would call rat rods. They would figure stuff out before the internet and don't care about pretty. But that also means doing things like taking bags of dry chlorine (Shock treatment for pool) and cramming into a bucket he then puts next to my S2000. He put them in the bucket because one was leaking granules. Rusted my chrome (shocks, exhaust tip, emblems) within a week before I caught. He's stubborn too - nothing can't be fixed without a bigger hammer. Lots of broken bolts to prove this - I've gotten good with a drill and tap.... Still and always great fun to work with him and I'm sure my son will bitch about me one day. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Great eye - and if body proves sound / minimal effort then I won't feel so bad about some of the changes I was considering. You are right on the rubber and sills - once pointed out can see. Unfortunately the guy that could answer isn't here. Like a box of chocolates Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Not busting any dreams. If it was sprayed it was a long time ago. Its kinda like my dad (74). Love him but over the years I've picked up some work or a project he has done and scratched my head - if it worked was good enough. Not sure what is under if has been sprayed. Will be on my lift next weekend and go through - regardless looks to be straight. Rust and bondo are my biggest fears - but as I said I've known the car and can vouch was never in an accident and never had major work done. It is possible PO sprayed it when he first got it - I know he had underbody treated with some tar/oil coat. Will let you all know - curious what paint meter will say. Will get treatment with a magnet and microfiber too. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just watched a YouTube which referenced "Enviro?" as a safe replacement for R12. I do all my own labor except welding, fine bodywork and paint. Prior projects Have helped me find my limits - and I'm old enough not to delude myself . Below will be the cars new home and workshop - getting organized. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

50,858 original miles. Respray ? paint. Lived a 1/2 mile from Biscayne Bay in a garage most of its life - survived Hurricane Andrew with out a scratch. Anyone have suggestions for where to get good interior materials - carpet kit, padding, door cards? Still thinking on interior. Will attack the few areas of surface rust and prime..then touch up. Mostly elbow grease which I don't mind. Very pleased Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thank you for this thread - lots of good ideas. What you did with cable routing is genius and looks great! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

New pics and an update - AC confirmed to be dead, compressor is supposedly the issue. Would like to keep stock setup for AC but dont know what is involved. Another topic to research. Pics below...overall looks great but need to decide on interior. Yellowed plastics you see not sure I can get replacements in original colors - think you can still get black? Depending on how vinyl cleanups and what is available...will see. If cannot get the right color trim may match interior to trim. Down the road. Carpetkit was replaced - badly - long ago. Door cars ...overal pretty darn original with only some spots of surface rust to address. Look at that paint shine...interior...we will see.

Thanks! Yeah I've been making my list. Step 1 is make sure it runs well - distributor, thermostat, fluids, plug wires, EFI wires and connection, hoses, belts, fuel, etc. Top to bottom. Then make sure it stops - brakes. Other than fluid change, check pads and shoes, drum wear and make sure lines aren't bulged or leaking I'll leave that alone for now - Toyota calipers and booster when / if needed. Then suspension - Tokico Illumina all around, urethane bump stops, eibach springs, urethane bushings. I really went back and forth on that but in the end I like a firm ride and roads are good. I'm leaving radiator alone for now (will flush and fill), but new pump and fan clutch. Punting on AC until another day. All of this gets me a car that looks the same but updated for fun and safety. Now, for appearances...the paint needs a claybar and detail and should look 95% I'm told, pics agree. The interior carpet kit was roughly done by my buddies dad and needs to be replaced. I have new door cards that come with car. Seats, headliner and dash are good. Front bumper is ugly as sin and showing age, rear is OK. I've decided to pull both and go with MSA 240z carbon fiber front and rear. Wheels will be Konig Satin black rewinds 16x7 with 205/55. I went back and forth and frankly prefer 15 but that size is a pain to get tires for. 205/55 is same diameter almost as stock and seems no rubbing and no mods needed. The black on blue theme is classy and simple and will go nicely with those white seats. May do a black carpet kit...don't know going to wait and think on that. Still classic with light updates but nothing that takes away or couldn't be put back. - and still unique. There is no visible rust but driver side wing bottom by rocker has a quarter sized spot of paint that needs some attention. May do a fuel filter off of tank - will check for rust, really tanks are a wear item. An induction tool would be awesome but $450 is a bit steep - my MAP torch has helped me with 71 MGB rust bomb, 67 Camaro, multiple boat trailers. That and big arse breaker with cheater does wonders...though I do need to be careful about those water pump studs. All the above puts me $3K in the hole, with AC my next wallet black hole. No air dam, but if I do carbon fiber BRE spook to keep it period looking. Yep, feels familiar- this is what it is like to own and old car again Great site - wealth of information.

I'm doing this remote with the seller - but he tells me the underside is perfect. I know his dad put on undercoating and was very aggressive at staying ahead of rust - we talked about that multiple times. The pics he sent are as you'd expect - a dirty dark underside . Was always a south Florida car and garage kept - so gutters and hatch tray as well as Around the windshield were my areas of concern - but as you can seen no bubbling in original paint. Better (cleaned) pics coming today. I'm getting this for roughly half or more of what they could get in the market (given shape of car) so can afford some blemishes. But really the car is as you see - I'll be able to confirm Better when I put on lift and inspect. I'm really torn about how much I change this - it is original and think I want to keep most of that / nothing irreversible. When I did my MGB I did it to SCCA race spec of the day with 1.75" SUs and updated springs and Armstrong lever arm shocks. Not sure what I want - original has its own attraction. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Shipping set, being picked up Monday. Dusty, buddy just pulled out of garage and is cleaning. Will get a few more pics tomorrow.