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SeanT
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Everything posted by SeanT
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So I got it working fine again i hooked it all back up and tried hitting the fuel dampener the thing after the pump and it seam to fix the problem and shes running again. -
I took the hose off after the filter and there was no pressure. I had almost 12v back at the tank. I took the pump out and put it to a battery and it works. I didnt check to see if there was 12v at the tank before taking out the pump.
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I went to start up my 1976 280z and it didnt fire up, so i checked the spark and it was fine. So i took off the cover of the air flow sensor to check the fuel pump and i heard the relay click but not the fuel pump. So i took the pump out and it works then checked the power to it and had 11.8 or 11.3 volts or something. I plain to re hook up the pump to the connectors to see if it works now, and there was just something in it that i shook lose when i took it out. Is there anything else i should check or another shut off for the pump. -Thank You
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I switched out the pick ups and it sill didnt fire so i when to the tests for the module and i found that it only had 11.33 volts and the battery had 12.05 or something. Ill try charging the battery and see if the voltage changes. Will the module not getting 12 volts be the problem. I took the other module out but havent put it in yet, it had two cross threaded screws so ill have to switch out the thermal block to try the other one.
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Im not intimidated by it I already took it out and cleand the contacts, I also opened up the plate and looked inside and it all looked really clean and sprayed the whole inside down with terminal cleaner. Im just making my way down the list. If this doesnt fix the problem the module will be the next thing on the list.
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Hey, so today i found that one of the pick-ups had no resitance the other had about 700 so i am switching them with two from a spare distruptor that came with 2+2. they both have good resitance. I also found that the condencer's blue male wire was brocken and just shoved into the hole and it didnt have a good ground so i put the one from the 2+2 in. The coil also read 1.3 oms so it sould be good.
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Ill look in to the pick up in the distriutor i noiced that the tach doesnt move when its turning over i cant remember if it did before or not. I was looking on page EE-33 and noticed mine looked differentI also noticed that on my 1976 parts car it was diffent then the one on my car. the parts car one looks the same as the manual. This is what mine looks like.
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I cleaned the battery connecters and every thing and every thing is working again but there is still no spark. I was going through the wiring diagram and he believes that the problem is the transistor ignition unit under the dash. I was reading that some one disconnected the the condencer and his car ran again. There is a thing that kind of looks like a condencer by the coil. but it has a wire going it to it then comming out out of it that goes to the air flow meter. then there is a nother thing that look like a condencer with one wire going in to it on the altinator. does any one know about disconnecting the condencer and where it is. I havent had any smells or fizzes but ill keep looking. - Thank you
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I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.
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i am thinking about taking it out again and cleaning it out, if i do i will try to post a picture of it. Tank you again for all your help.
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Well i taped it and shock it the right way up and put it back in and every thing is working again.
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the screw heads are rusted I am trying to get my phone to send a picture. I do not think i can get a pair of vise grips in there.
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The screws are rusted so i will have to drill them out, is that safe? I will try to post a picture but my phone wont transfer to my computer of some reason, but i will try once it get it open. Thank you for helping me out.
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I took it out banged it and cleaned the terminals the blower motor and wiper started working but my dash and flashers stoped working as well as the car not starting. so i took it back out and shook it and hear little bit moving around in side (rust). so I am going to try to take it apart ad see if i can clean it up and get every thing working. I will also try to go to the junk yard see if i can get one out of a zx, or just make my own.
