Everything posted by SeanT
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Accessories section of the fuse block not getting power.
No, i saw the picture i want to try to see if i can get it to work before taking it out. Thank you.
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Accessories section of the fuse block not getting power.
Alright, thank you. I will poke around under there clean up some contacts and tap it a couple of times.
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Accessories section of the fuse block not getting power.
Alright, where is it located.
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1976 280z Stuttering
Up date I found that the hose under the intake going into the crank case was deteriorated and cracked on the inside. I replaced it and it is running a lot better i know this thread is dead but anyone who sees this that was the problem. I wound still like to know if what i talked about in the post above will have an influence. Thank you for every ones help.
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Accessories section of the fuse block not getting power.
Hello, I have a 1976 280z and the radio, A.C., and wipers are not getting power at the fuse. Every thing else gets 12 volts going through but 0 volts at those 3. The wipers, blower fan, vacuum electro magnet for the A.C. (no vacuum getting past), and radio (has an after market radio do not know if it needs its own power cord.) all do not work, also the fuel warning light, glove box light, dome light, volt discharge light, right turn signal dash light, hi beam dash light, and speedo dash light do not work but I am not sure if all of the light bulbs are good. Dose the car have an accessories relay that i can hit with a hammer or replace? Any help will be appreciated, Thank you.
- Will 240 springs fit a 280z
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Will 240 springs fit a 280z
Hello I recently bought a 1976 280z and it is sitting pretty high and I would like to lower it respectably not slam it. I was wondering if a set of 240 springs would be compatible with it to bring the height down. Or what would be the best thing to do. I do not have a lot of money to throw at it so I am not looking at getting coil overs.
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1976 280z Stuttering
Hey everyone an update on the car. It was last tagged in 2014 so it has not been sitting for to long. The plate in the door jam is missing. I will try to ask the seller if he might have it but I do not think he would have it. I flushed the old gas out and added sea foam to premium which it has been running better the more it runs as well as puttering a new fuel filler in. The fuel pressure was around 38lb is believe. The rotor, cap, and leads all look pretty fresh but the car came with new ones. I have new plugs as well but the ones in the car look pretty new. I already planed on changing all the fluids but have not changed any yet. I tested the AFS by hooking a multi meter to it well it has power and the voltage increased the more it moved counter clock wise. I also want to check the timing on it. I did notice that when I lift the dip stick up that nothing changes in the idle (not when it was surging). I still have not changed the vacuum lines yet, Every thing seems to be not be checked most of the bad line is after the vacuum canister bottle (which is bypassed) and the heater/A.C. controls. Amazon has some regular stuff that around $15 for 50 feet, would that be fine it has a four and a half star rating or should I go a head a buy the silicone stuff for $2 per foot. I also noticed that there was a hose from the radiator to a thing on the intake under the air regulator that looked kinked. I do not know what this is but it might be the problem or part of it cents it seams to happen after the engine heats up.
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1976 280z Stuttering
Hello I just bought a 1976 280z, My first z but i have done a lot of research on them. It will start up easily and run cold well at around 800rpm. But once it warms up (the temp gauge is about in the middle.) It will drop down to 500rpm and stutter. If I give it barley any throttle to bring it to 800 rpm it is fine but if I go up to 1000-1200rpm it will back fire through the intake and exhaust. The plugs are back but not fouled. If I manually control the AFM it will run fine. I also unplugged the connector to the cold start injector but it did not seem to change anything. I am thinking the temperature sensor is the problem. also there might be some vacuum issues because of any dry rot (I plan to re-do all of the vacuum lines). I do not a lot about how the efi works on these cars except for the basics, and I would like to know how everything works. -Thank you
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Z's only a mother could love thread