tabaka45

Not completely. However, it is drivable and the more it is driven the better it seems to get. I’m going to run a couple of tanks through it with Seafoam a Heet in it and see if that clears it up. I’m hoping that it is a lot of contaminated fuel that will eventually clear out.

Thanks. I got the one with the cone, installed it and it seems to be working fine. Still wish I had been able to get the reduction gear starter. The original lasted 37 years, so if this one lasts half that long I’ll probably be toes up.

I have a bad starter and ordered a replacement from AutoZone. When it came in it appeared to be a little different than the ones I saw on the internet. Specifically, it had a cone nose and the bendix moves out on a shaft like most of the starters I've ever seen. The pictures I saw on the internet do not have the cone but are simply flat. I guess the bendix simply protrudes out and engages the ring gear when the starter is activated. I have not removed mine and AutoZone is holding the one I ordered until I find out if it will work. The starter at AutoZone has a pamphlet that says the starter may look different but is appropriate for the 280zx. In looking again on the internet I have found others that have the cone shape nose that are indicated for the 1980 280 zx. Anyone know for sure if a cone nosed starter will work?

By the way, did I ever mention that I hate electrical problems!

I'll recheck it, but I think it's ok.

I have pulled the plugs wires one at a time and they all seem to have the same effect. The plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor are new so I'm assuming they are ok. However, I may get a known good wire and another plug and switch them out one at a time. My "skip" is intermittent and occurs at all speeds. It's gone several miles without a skip and then start skipping a lot. It really feels like one cylinder is dropping which could indicate a bad wire, plug or rotor, but again they are all new. The troubleshooting section of the Haynes manual says that a bad EGR can cause the same symptoms, so that's my next test. Probably next week due to schedule issues this week.

It occurs at any rpm. Someone suggested I test out the EGR valve which I have to read up on. To me it still feels like a mis-firning cylinder, but with all new injectors, plugs, wires, and distributer cap and rotor that seems to rule out electrical ignition issues. Compression is about 155 on each cylinder, so I assume no issues with the valves. I've never dealt with emission systems with all the valves, hoses, etc., so I'm sort of lost as to where to start.

While it had been setting for several years, I've driven it every 4 or 5 months about 10 miles. The last time it set a little longer, probably 7 or 8 months . I had stabilizer in the gas but it was still pretty old and I had to drain it and refill. The gas smelled terrible, so I'm assuming that had something to do with the injectors getting gummed up, or at least I thought they were. Now I'm not so sure.

1980 280 ZX, 134,000 miles. I let the car sit for a while and the fuel went bad. Car ran terribly. Ended up replacing the injectors (with Bosch injectors), fuel regulator, fuel filter, distributer cap and rotor, spark plugs and plug wires. Now I have an intermittant skip that feels like somewhat like a misfiring plug or wire--but they are new. Someone told me that this same thing can be caused by a bad egr valve or perhaps some other part of the emissions system. Sometimes it will run several miles without an issue and then start skipping for a while. It seems to stop if I accellerate hard. The valves have been adjusted and compression is even at about 155 on all cylinders. Any suggestions on how to run down an intermittant skip. Once I resolve this I plan on having the body and inside fully restored.

Good point. My mechanic has it now and we will probably do that before starting on the body work. Right now we are working on getting it in perfect mechanical condition. It has 134,000 miles on it, but the engine is solid.

I got it started. All that was apparently necessary was to remove the relays under the hood and reinstall them. Apparently there was some corrosion--which I couldn't see- on the terminals. In any case it fired up. However, we barely made it back to Brunswick, about 60 miles. As it turns out the fuel filter was almost completely clogged, the distributor cap had a couple of small cracks, and the fuel regulator diaphram was torn sucking fuel directly into the intakes. Parts are on order and hopefully it will be in good running condition shortly. Then to the body shop for an estimate. Thanks for your replys.

It did not start, however, it would fire with starting fluid--at least until the starting fluid was burned. Since the fuel pump is not coming on at all there is no fuel getting to the engine. I thought the fuel pump might be bad, but when connected to a 12 volt sorce is works well. I'll look at the EFEC chapter and see how to test the relays. Thanks for your reply.

I'm new to the site and tried to post the following last week. However, I think it showed up in my profile instead. In any case, if anyone can give me some advice it will be appreciated. I have kept my '80 280ZX stored at my mother's house and generally start and drive it every 3-4 months. Sometimes I have to use a little starter fluid, but usually not. Last week it would not start even with starter fluid (although it did start until the starter fluid was consumed). It appears that I am getting no power to the fuel pump. By connecting the fuel pump directly to the battery I have confirmed that it is working. In my manual I see 3 fuel pump relays, two under the hood and one inside, but I see no fuses listed, which I assumed was the problem. Is there a way for me to test these relays, and is there a fuse some where?

I have kept my '80 280ZX stored at my mother's house and generally start and drive it every 3-4 months. Sometimes I have to use a little starter fluid, but usually not. Last week it would not start even with starter fluid (although it did start until the starter fluid was consumed). It appears that I am getting no power to the fuel pump. By connecting the fuel pump directly to the battery I have confirmed that it is working. In my manual I see 3 fuel pump relays, two under the hood and one inside, but I see no fuses listed, which I assumed was the problem. Is there a way for me to test these relays, and is there a fuse some where?