w3wilkes

I didn't see it mentioned, but with the 60 amp internally regulated alternator you do need to replace the external voltage regulator with one of these. Motorsport! Alternator Upgrade Adaptor, 70-72 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts

Sweet find! I see miles of smiles coming your way.

From what you say I'm guessing it's the rear brakes. I you decide it's the wheel cylinders and you want to replace them you can use the newer cylinders with some minor brake line tweaking on the back of the drums. Here's a thread I did when I replaced mine.

Sorry I misunderstood who you were directing at. I personally wouldn't have seen it as boasting. Just like I don't see datsunzguy, myself and others boasting with pictures of our cars in our signatures. If you got a great car boast away, most of us are happy for anyone that acquires a great car and we do like to see them.

I also thought the "no" response was a little on the negative side and really doesn't have anything to do with you being proud of your find. My guess is that Patcon also thought you had a nice find and was just curious on the range of the price for such a nice find (that us late comers have no idea on without pictures). Charles (patcon) is one of the more helpful/supportive people on these boards and other than you I doubt there's anybody else on these boards that saw his question as overly prying. I know when I was growing up and I got a just "no" (or "maybe" which always meant "no") from my parents it was viewed as a negative response. This whole thing reminds me of the kid that didn't get what he wanted so he took his ball away.

Being a little late to this dance I'm wondering what this car looks like?? The pictures have been removed. Any possibility they could be put back so us Johnny come lately's can see this car?

What do you use to transfer your vinyl? Do you properly cut the tracks out of a single file per album side? I do still have all my vinyl. I've actually duplicated most of my vinyl on CD. Rip with DBPoweramp. Drive all the music with Logitech Media Server.

Not "The Prodigy" As ZH put in the Saturday Night Music thread. Just Prodigy the online service. I used it in the early 1990's. Since I worked for "the phone company" (Mountain Bell) in IT, I had internet access from the office. At home the best I could do was 56Kbps dialup.

I bought the dual fan, shroud and 3 row radiator from MSA. It came with a Auto Cool controller. The temp sensor is like a foil thingy that wedges between the radiator output and the hose. I believe this is where the coolest water is leaving the radiator.

Prodigy

Our youngest (43) gave me these coasters that he made on his new 3D printer. They're glued to cork beds and a clearcoat over the Z emblem. I think they're pretty hot!

To be clear, the original question is hypothetical. I had always read that people would re-work the lines to go to the marked F and R connections. Did they do this just because that's the way it's marked on the M/C? What made me think of this is the zx distributor swap when we were told that you had to have the E12-80 matchbox on the distributor. The E12-92 actually works exactly like the E12-80 if you only use the top connections. I've been running a E12-92 for years and it works perfectly with just the top connection in use. EDIT: How many rear disc conversions have been done and the original M/C used? If there's a big difference in the F and R, wouldn't this mess up the rear brakes?

Was this such a dumb question that nobody will respond? @Zed Head @Captain Obvious

Thanks for setting me straight. I did go back and read through the comments and found the reference to the welded up hatch vents. On my own map light hood... I cannot be positive that the original owner might have had the map light replaced sometime in the 19 years he had the car before I bought it from him back in 1990.

Who was it the other day that asked about blocking the hatch vents in a series 1? The pillar emblems on this car are clearly series 1 but the hatch is series 2 (no vents at all). By the VIN this car is 24 cars newer than mine. My hatch has the vents and this car doesn't so I got one of the last hatches with vents (supports the comment someone made about "these cars leak enough that it shouldn't affect the ability of the flow through ventilation to still work"). This car has the hood on the map light and so does my car. These are just minor things showing Datsun transitioning series 2 parts into the production line.

Assumption: early car and a late M/C... The external difference from early to late is the size of reservoirs that are swapped. What's the internal difference? What would happen if you swapped the late reservoirs to the early reservoir positions and hooked the rear brake line to the front M/C position and the front brake line to the rear M/C position?

We could go to what Mariners use... Port = Left side of car when looking to the front of the car from the rear and Starboard = Right side of car when looking towards the front of the car from the rear. 🤪

I think you can just leave it as is. When the dealership did the electric pump on my '73 they just left the mech pump in line. When I did the electric pump on my current car, I removed the mech pump.

The 240Z's all came with wiring for an electric pump in the wiring harness. The wires at the tank should be just hanging out of the same bundle as the fuel tank level sending unit. There's a plug up either under the console as shown in the picture in this thread I've linked or in a wire bundle wrapped in a naugahyde boot just in front of the console in the passenger foot well. My conversion to an electric fuel pump starts at post 52 in the linked thread. The plug should be wrapped in blue tape. A wire bridge on that plug will power the circuit for the fuel pump when the ignition is in the Run/Start positions. You should use something like an inertia switch in that jumper loop to cut power to the circuit in the event of a crash.

I'll bet one of your kids could show you how. 😁

Classic old style Blues

I would do the headlight relays even if you go LED headlights. I used these LED headlamps and if you don't do the relays you'll have to use the anti-flicker module which is a pain to get them in the bucket with the headlamp. My first post in this thread shows the stock wiring and how it's changed with the headlight relays. The relays make it so the ground and power leads flow the electrons in the proper direction for the LED bulbs.

How about this ebay site... 240z 5 speed knob | eBay

And how about this one.. Here in Utah the prominant religion discourages any "Fun activities" on Sunday so I'm expecting the little goblins to show up tonight.

The intro to this always reminded me of Halloween..