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w3wilkes

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Everything posted by w3wilkes

  1. I'm confused about your LH and RH designation. The non-vented seat with the larger gap is RH as we look at them in the picture. I will say that my own experience after recovering my seats that the gap is bigger than it was with the original seat covers. On the green car with tan the gap looks to be original to me since it is much smaller than the gap in my seats.
  2. My series 1 original seats had the vents and so did my 73. I did replace with seats from a 77 and leather from Interior Innovations and am quite pleased with the result. Here's the thread I did on this back in 2018; Leather Seats - Interior - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)
  3. Both my 73 240 and 71 240 have been back and forth across the divide from SLC, Utah to Denver, Colorado without ever touching the tune and they run just fine. The most fun is taking a SLC car down to California and it runs like what feels like a scalded dog! Fumes are minimal.
  4. The big questions on these Z's... Can you fit your luggage and 2 sets of golf clubs and a passenger in either the Z3 or Z4? 😁 No problem in my 240Z. I personally think the Z3 is better looking that the Z4.
  5. Here's the stock wiring diagram, the zx wiring diagram and the Pertronix diagram (thanks @Carl Beck). I think those that have gone the 123 route are quite happy once they got it working. www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm
  6. With the ballast resistor missing have you verified that the distributor has maybe been swapped to a ZX electronic distributor with either the E12-80 matchbox or the E12-92 matchbox on the distributor? Yes, the E12-92 works just fine. If you only use the same connections as on the E12-80 and don't power the other connections the E12-92 will work exactly the same as the E12-80.
  7. One note of caution. Back in the day when I re-did my chrome I had a damaged rear left corner. When I got the new piece I found that I had to re-chrome all the bumper pieces so it would match. Have you laid the over riders by the bumpers to see if there's much difference in the color, reflectance, or something else.
  8. I also have put those Wesco seat belts in my 240Z and am very happy with them.
  9. I've been a 240z owner for 47 years, kids, grandkids most of that time and I've actually had to use the starter in 1st gear to get going and once going it's easy enough to shift without grinding gears. This was due to a clutch slave failure on each of my 73 and 71 cars (and before that in my 61 Belaire wagon, clutch linkage broke). I also never leave the keys in the car so kids can't "hit" the start button. I guess they could push in the clutch and get it rolling, but isn't that true on current manual shifts?
  10. Here's one... May be one of those internet scam sites, but you could try their "Contact us" and see if they can give you a picture (or if they even respond). Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z Engine Motor Harmonic Balancer Damper Crank Pulley OEM (xdetaxigids.com) Ebay 1972 Datsun 240z 3 Pulley Harmonic Balancer | eBay Here's one 280z 2 groove harmonic balancer » Vintage Z Parts
  11. One of the wires in that connector is hot when the key is in the run position. When I was figuring this out here's what I did, the green wire is the jumper I've been referring to; This will give you power to run the electric fuel pump at the tank. Other than putting the impact switch in this loop it's all you need. You don't need all the relays Datsun put in their tech bulletin. I've been running this way since 2017 with no trouble.
  12. Here's a before and after picture of the wiring when going to a zx distributor. May be slightly different for a '73.
  13. Picture in this thread might help. 240z Electric Fuel Pump Installation - Page 3 - Carburetor Central - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) The electric fuel pump circuit in the 240z's is all ready to go. You can activate it by jumpering the blue taped connector in the picture in the link. That jumper should also have the impact sensor in the jumper loop referred to by @cgsheen1 above. When Datsun did this they did a much more sophisticated job as referenced above by @Zed Head.
  14. Dusty Hill's passing reminded me of this song;
  15. Next dumb 2 questions... 1- Did you use a 6 + 3mm rubber washers because there wasn't a 9mm rubber washer? 2- I presume the metal washer is oriented away from the mustache bar?
  16. So is this 2 3mm metal washers with a 9mm neoprene washer between them?
  17. My mfg 12/70 Z original engine has the passenger side oil drain plug.
  18. Is this verified or on an honor system?
  19. I wish these stats would breakout vaccinated vs un-vaccinated. Of course if they did that there would be those that would say it was rigged.
  20. What about one of these... The price is sure right! Óleo 240z Cam Spray Bar (cactusplusn.top)
  21. Don't know if @zKars ended up making these, but it would make it so you could lock down a much wider timing range. New Product Idea. Distributor Timing Plate Re-Design - Engine & Drivetrain - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)
  22. If you can't find the original I know this one fits since it's on my car and tucks up nicely in the drive line channel. MagnaFlow 4" Round Center/Center Straight Through Performance Muffler
  23. Lifted this from another thread. 260 is the same.
  24. Yes, there are other relays besides the ones added for the electric fuel pump. Hopefully others can address replacement options. You don't say which pump you're thinking of bypassing? Car should run with either pump bypassed. On my '71 I've removed the mech pump and gone electric. from your picture that has the mech fuel pump in it it appears both the feed and return fuel lines are connected. I also note that the original flat top carbs have been replaced with round top carbs which was also done at some dealerships because of the vapor lock problem.
  25. Just noticed you have multiple threads on this. I replied in you other thread here; Where is Fuel return line? - Open Discussions - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) Which thread do you plan on sticking with?
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