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w3wilkes

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Everything posted by w3wilkes

  1. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    More Tubes for CO I'll vote for the MSA 6 to 1 ceramic coated.
  2. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    later 240z dash has the cigar lighter in the dash and in the earlier 240z the cigar lighter is in the console under the radio. The hazard light switch was changed from a up/down toggle in the early 240z to a "pull" knob sometime in the 72 -73 timeframe. I think there were about 3 different versions of the up/down toggle switch.
  3. Would you have install pics? Thanks.
  4. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Interior
    So my 73 must have had the neutral switch since the buzzer would shut off going through neutral when the seatbelt wasn't fastened. As far as starting the car in gear goes, that was no problem on my 73. When my slave clutch cylinder broke I would just put it in 1st, start the car in gear and go. Then it's just a matter of gently shifting while the RPM's drop between gears. Put the car in neutral to stop at the light, shut off the motor, put it in 1st and start in gear when the light turned green.
  5. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Ron, Sorry, I haven't had my 73 for 20 years and my early 71 is a pre buzzer car. The only switches I'm aware of are under the seats. You could try unplugging one of them and see if the buzzer quits, if not then try the other seat. I believe these are micro switches that complete the circuit to the buzzer when you put weight on the seat. Good Luck, Wilkes
  6. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Can't speak for sure on a 72, but on my 73 with a manual transmission there was a neutral switch. The buzzer would buzz when in gear, but not in neutral when the seatbelt wasn't buckled for either passenger or driver.
  7. It depends on what YOU want from the car. Are you doing it for resale? I have my car because I've loved them since I first saw them. I went out on a limb and bought a brand new 1973 240z that I really couldn't afford. Drove it to death over the next 17+ years and then got my current 'early 71 back in late 1990 to replace the '73. This one is a fair weather driver and yes, I've done mods and don't have some of the parts I've removed. Do I care? Not really because the car is the way I want it.
  8. Just a really stupid question... Can the PU bushings be "softened" with a slight amount of perforating without compromising their integrity?
  9. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Who is Josh who's getting something from Z Car Depot in Ontario Friday July 10? I got an email from them telling me my order is on the way and will be delivered today. Here's the Fedex info from Z Car Depot Shipped Your package has been processed. Your tracking number is: 394612364527 ATTN: JOSH KINGFA GLOBAL INC. 1550 S MILLIKEN AVE STE A ONTARIO CA 91761-2323
  10. Too bad this pipe wasn't flipped 180 degrees. Then you wouldn't need that 180 degree hose to get back to the evap tank.
  11. From what I've seen of your car builds, they're just gorgeous! They only problem I'd have with them is I would be afraid to drive them. Carry on!
  12. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Nice car and welcome!
  13. Got to love matching numbers! ?
  14. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Site, The biggest issue I found with the LED headlights is the way Datsun did the wiring. Since LED's are diodes they only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Rather than the center post being a common ground, the center post is hot and the switching is done between the 2 posts that are ground in the Datsun world. Here's a thread where I asked Dave about his harness and how it's wired. The thread also has the headlights I ended up going with. Because I've been lazy and the lights are working I haven't taken the anti flicker block out yet, but according to Dave the harness puts the ground on post 3 where it typically is outside the Datsun 240z world.
  15. The seal on mine is in the valve cover. Car is 12/70 date.
  16. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    After talking to James at MSA I went with their stuff. The rear bearings are Nissan OEM the fronts are Koyo.
  17. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    I did the ITG air filter and ran all the vents to the air cleaner like the original configuration.
  18. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Did a quick search and this came up... Looks like Koyo and Timken may be same same nowadays. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/koyo-bearings-usa-llc-formed-following-jtekt-acquisition-of-timken-division-80706827.html
  19. From what I get on their website http://watanabe.polyhedron.io/ The F8's sound like they're front wheel drive maybe. the A's are aluminum and the B's are magnesium.
  20. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Thank you!
  21. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Thanks!
  22. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    @Joseph@TheZStore Comment
  23. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Wheels & Brakes
    Anyone know the quality / brand of the MSA wheel bearings? Their price seems reasonable comparatively. Figured I'd do these too since I'm doing struts and bushings.
  24. If you're going to re-upholster with the Interior Innovations leather (which I have and I'm very pleased), You should also replace the foam; https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 I have a thread on a couple of things here; I replaced my series 1 seats with 77 seats so I could have the seat flip forward, the handle is way easier to adjust seatback than the series 1 knob. I also prefer the seat bottom springs rather than the straps under the foam on the early seats.
  25. w3wilkes posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Dr, There just happens to be a recent discussion over in the Help Me section. Wilkes
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