w3wilkes

From the description it does sound like the part. I'm surprised that these are sided?? Why wouldn't it work on either side? From the listed dimensions it sounds like it's a 5 in square!

Is this chart complete? It doesn't show the #905 color (a tomato red with a slight orange tint). When I painted my car back in 1991 I contacted the Nissan regional office in Colorado and #905 was the number I was given.

Me too! Plus all kinds of junk strewn through the yard and driveway.

And here's one from our library that I can't believe we missed...

Can't believe it took me so long to come across this thread! Here's a themed playlist my wife and I put together that we sometimes throw on when we go cruising. A couple of these were mentioned earlier.

The new person in the White House may have a sympathetic ear to us collectors.

Google shows ZCardepot phone number as (844) 865-2473. Don't know if it's any good though.

Thanks, I guess I'll leave that alone then.

With a manual transmission and one of the Champion radiators with ATF cooling ports could one use that for an oil cooler?

I had this happen after my car sat in the garage for a number of years. Turned out the rear wheel cylinders were frozen and replacing them corrected the problem. Due to the cost of the early cars wheel cylinders I replaced using the newer, much less expensive cylinders. Here's a thread if you're interested.

I can only help on the fuel lines. The larger diameter line is the "from tank to fuel pump and then on to the rail and carbs. The return line is the smaller diameter of the two and goes from the rail down to the line, then to fuel line and connects to the smaller tank hard line. The return line on the rail has kind of a restrictor orifice to maintain fuel pressure for the carbs.

On international travel... Back in the 50's when I was an Army brat my dad got stationed in Germany. At that time there were a series of shots the whole family had to have to go from the USA to Germany and then again to come back to the US. It may be that this type of restriction would be implemented again when a vaccine becomes available. No vaccine - you're not allowed to enter the given country.

This is so sad and very sorry for your loss. What kills me are the groups that say being required to wear a mask infringes their freedom. We have a bunch here in Utah around the BYU area which is in Utah County (luckily almost 100 miles south of me). It's turned out to be about the biggest hotspot in our state and the people are still resisting masks. Hopefully we'll get a vaccine sooner rather than later.

If you're planning to use on of the Champion radiators from MSA like this one you would have no trouble with the rail width up front. You would need to slightly file down the ears below the lower bolt holes used to mount an electric fan shroud on the engine side of the radiator, but it would be very minor. The ear is just below the nut and bolt in the green square. you can see the gap between the radiator and the rail.

Amazing what pain one would go through to get a little back in the day. 🤪

You all must be a bunch of youngsters, our family ride was a 61 Bel Air wagon, 283 with 3 on the tree. Got my license in this baby in 1967. When I started dating the folks sold it and got a 1967 MG Midget that they let me take on dates. They must have known the old adage of "accidents in the back seat cause kids"!

When I lined my tank back in 2017 I used a different product https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-5200-Standard-Sealer/dp/B00DMIDUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531949798&sr=8-2&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer and so far I'm very happy. Fully agree that prep is key regardless of product used.

I too painted the engine bay without pulling the engine. Everything removable was removed and the harnesses were moved off the surfaces. My only mistake was not taping the nuts on the strut towers. Here's a pic right after doing the engine bay and jams most of the stuff has been put back in the engine bay except the radiator and yes, the windshield was pulled before we did the exterior.

In the 30 years I've owned this car I don't think the wheel color has changed. Car has only been used for "joy riding" and garaged since day 1 that I've owned it. The original owner kept it garaged when home, but did use it to commute some. I keep the wheels clean and think the wear of the paint on the wheel spokes shows some character and that the car actually has been used over its 50 year life and about 110,000 miles.

Was the MSA wait time for both the 3/2 and 6/1 ceramic coated headers? You ref'd the 3/2 from ZCarDepot. I did the 6/1 from MSA - MagnaFlow resonator in the tunnel and MagnaFlow muffler at the end. I then just had the exhaust place build the 2.5" rest of it. Not too aggressive for this old fart.

I did all my rubber lines back in 2017, here's what I did;

I'll back what @AK260 says, but... I haven't even bothered to balance them, just put them on, added oil and go. Been that way for over 2 years and the car just runs great, maybe just a tad rich, but very minor.

Just a couple minor comments. The stock fuel filter from MSA is designed to not back drain to the tank when the car is off. The inlet goes at least halfway up the wall and the outlet goes almost to the bottom. Don't know what replacement fuel pump you put in, but there's been an awful lot of chatter about some bad fuel pumps in this thread;

I thought I'd read that it's based the Nissan FM platform with power coming from the Infiniti Q60.

I saw a mock up of a front grill mod that breaks up the big black square grill that I think improves the look of the front.