w3wilkes

For the braided hose for the tank vents I followed WoodWorkerB's directions; http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

From this picture it looks like you already have headers and the air ports have bolts in them? If I remember correctly back in the mid 70's MSA had headers with the ports in addition to "comp" headers without the ports with a warning that they may not be legal in your state. If those are headers, are they 6 to 1 or 3 to 2 with a "Y" connector and do you have 2.5" exhaust? As for heat shield it looks like ZCarDepot has them; https://zcardepot.com/products/carburetor-manifold-heat-shield-stainless-240z

I've removed my mechanical pump and have gone electric at the tank. When cold I apply full choke, turn on the key and let the pump run for a few seconds until I hear a slight change in the pump sound which I think is when the system is fully "charged" with fuel. Then holding gas peddle to the floor it always takes 5 to 10 seconds of cranking before it comes to life. Once it fires up I can reduce choke to almost nothing and by the time the oil pressure comes up I can eliminate the choke. When the car is warm I just bump the key and it starts right up. On my '73 it was about the same story as my current early '71. I had the full dealer stuff on the '73 to address vapor lock so it had both electric and mechanical pump.

I'm guessing that for about the price of the FAST system you could go with rebuilt SU's from Ztherapy which would work with the big cam for sure.

Here's pretty much the same picture with stuff removed. A couple of comments... I have the 6 to 1 ceramic coated headers so no air injection ports on the exhaust manifold. you'll need to plug those... or go the header route. The pipe on the air cleaner that has the hose to the pump will need to be plugged or else you'll have an unfiltered air passage to the carbs. What you see in the position of the air pump is my A/C compressor.

From the looks of your engine bay it looks like it has all the dealer mods (the electric fuel pump is part of those dealer mods) attempting to eliminate the vapor locking issue (I think ceramic headers could also help with reducing the under hood temp). Are you staying stock or do you plan on any mods like air injection delete, this would happen with the ceramic headers.

I drove a '73 with flat tops for about 20 years until it rusted to death. I found the flat tops to be very reliable and required little to no attention. Once tuned they will just keep going.

The resonator is a 24" Magnaflow; https://www.magnaflow.com/products/10426-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-round-centercenter-straight-through-performance-muffler And this is the muffler, also Magnaflow; https://www.magnaflow.com/products/13216-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-x-9-oval-centeroffset-xl-multi-chamber-performance-muffler

My electric pump install is on like the 3rd page in this thread; There's a ton of good info all through the above referenced thread. The wiring for electric fuel pump was included in the factory harness. There's no need to add additional wiring other than the short jumper loop at the console to power up the existing harness. It turns the pump on when the car is in the run/start positions only. There's no relays to add, just a method for fuel cutoff incase of an accident. And here's a link to the cutoff switch you can put in the jumper loop. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-5L2Z-9341-5L2z9341a-Inertia-Safety/dp/B000NTI03C

I did the MSA 6 to 1 Ceramic and 2.5 all the way back. Did both resonator and muffler. See;

Going electric really isn't a big deal. The 240Z's come wired for an electric pump. It's a matter of putting in the jumper at the front of the console area to power the already existing circuit and adding an inertia switch in your jumper loop to kill the pump in the event of an accident.

I've attached a word doc you might get a kick out of if you've dealt with Lucas Electrics on British cars. A TREATISE ON THE IMPORTANCE OF SMOKE BY JOSEPH LUCAS.doc

You will find it right after you order the replacement. At least that's how things work for me.

Questions... Does the Ziebart add weight? Does it add any soundproofing to the car? How are you going to address the holes? Curious minds need to know.

I went with the Rota RB's (I think they're patterned after the old Minilite's) and the center caps fit fine without flattening the grease caps. I got them here, they may have two different height center caps. These are 15x7 4 offset and I run 205/60 R15 tires with no scrub at all in my stock fenders and wheel wells. Very close to stock tire height so the speedo, according to those radar things that get set up on local streets telling you your speed, matches what the radar says.

A caution to be aware of... My car had the dealer A/C with the York compressor mounted on the drivers (left) side above the air pump. I had also installed a Champion 3 row aluminum radiator and the dual electric fans from MSA. The fans on the provided shroud won't fit with the old York mounted where it was. I bought this compressor upgrade kit for my 240Z that mounts where my deleted air pump was and it fits just fine along with having the Sanden compressor upgrade.

I kind of like the effect of the white bulbs in the center gauge and tach. Are either dim-able? And lastly, why is your car upside down? ?

What it does mean is you're not the only old fart in these forums! ?

My Dec 1970 car has the E31 head.

I've also been very happy with my Interior Innovation leather seat covers. I also did new foam from MSA.

However I don't think you'd find a 260Z that originally had 240Z bumpers or tail lights and I've never heard of a 240Z that had 260Z bumpers or tail lights.

I suspect that some of the changes were implemented prior to the S/N HLS30 21001 and HS30 00501 cars. My car is S/N HLS30 17486 and has the hooded map light. I am the 2nd owner, but I doubt it was changed by the original owner.

Not being familiar with the original 280Z wiring, but on a 240Z with the NLA Dave Irwin headlight wiring mod the ground is changed to a single ground for each headlight rather than the way Datsun originally did the wiring. The original 240Z wiring would not work with LED bulbs because the post normally used for ground was power and high/low beam was controlled by switching grounds. See this thread;

And you could have looked up Jalex and helped him with his ongoing carb float adjustment. ?

Isn't that the Ferrari 250 GTO Z Body kit?