w3wilkes

I will say that I saw that coming. Wasn't sure from who because there's so many possibilities! ?

Here's mine mounted. I've also seen them mounted on the left side of the console about to the side of the lighter panel facing up.

It's the wife's truck...

I have no issues with the MSA 6 to 1 on my car.

A little OT, Interesting... If it's seat belt buzzer/light... When I bought my 73 new I figured I'd use it to train me to start using a seat belt. Worked! It's now automatic, I fasten my belt before any car I'm in goes in gear. As I recall from my 73 it only buzzes when in gear.

Try this link; http://www.2040-parts.com/datsun-240z-su-carburetor-float-sync-tool-i1994669/

Don't know what I & W were for since I didn't need or use them.

In the picture you linked to the connections on the top of the matchbox are labeled C & B. The other 2 on the side are labeled I & W, leave those disconnected and the E12-92 will work just like the E12-80 which only has the C & B connections.

The E12-92 will work exactly like the E12-80 if you only use the C & B connections. I've been running the E12-92 module for years this way.

You can also use the ZX distributor with the E12-92 module. It works exactly the same as the E12-80 if you only use the C & B connections. I've been running the E12-92 module this way for years.

MSA ceramic coated headers did the job for me, followed up with 2.5" exhaust. badabing. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6012CH

From the movie "Cars", my birth year car was the Hudson Hornet. Very successfully campaigned in NASCAR in the early 50's!

My car is #17486 - Mfg Date 12/70 so I believe the May 70 in the fiche is in error and should really be Dec 70.

After seeing the green one go for $310K this looks like a steal!

Carl Beck has a registry, I don't know of any better registry for Z's http://www.zhome.com/

Now that it's over it shows $215,000 as the price?? I watched it run up to $310,000, what happened?

One place you could try is the ZCar club of Colorado, they may be able to help you. http://www.zccc.org/

Stuff like this is what drives the "Series 1" - "Series 2", blah blah discussions. Before 1973 EPA and safety requirements didn't dictate year model changes. Then in the USA for sure 73 and later cars were strictly driven by EPA and safety requirements. You will not see a factory 73 240z with original roundtop carbs or no 2.5 MPH front bumper followed in 74 with the 260z with additional EPA and safety changes.

One odd thing I notice in this picture is it appears that the end of the return line is enlarged for maybe 1/2 inch or so. Is there a possibility that there's a one way valve in there so the fuel can only exit? I haven't seen a 73 this close for almost 30 years so I'm just guessing. I don't recall my series 1 car having that enlarged end when I had the line off it a couple of years ago.

Yes, early 71. Stock ride height, not lowered.

I run the Rota RB's Gunmetal w/polished lip 15X7 +4 offset. I used the Gorilla small diameter black chrome lugs. Can't speak to the 215/60 R15 tires, I run 205/60 R15 tires which are almost identical tire height as stock so my speedo is pretty accurate and no tire scrub at all.

I bought seats from a 77 280Z ($150 USD) for my series 1 so I could have the full forward and recline tilt. Got new foam from MSA ($150 USD) and leather covers for the seats, EBrake and shifter boot ($400 USD) from Interior Innovations so they all match with the red stitching. A friend helped with the seat upholstery and I did the mod for my series 1 seat rails to go on the seats. Here's my seat thread; Not sure what it would cost for this in Canada, but if you're going to use your original seat frames I would guess it would be no where near your quoted $2,400 for 2 seats.

Since my car is carbed, not FI I don't know for sure. Seems like you should be able to disconnect the fuel line just before the injectors and just turn the key to start, I think this will run the pump. And oh, you want the line going into something to catch the fuel.

I was thinking that water is heavier than gas so it would settle to the bottom of the tank. The fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump would be fine. When it started and ran fine cold it was burning the good fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump. If there was water that had settled to the bottom of the tank it would be next in line after the fuel in the lines, filter(s) and pump was spent... Not sure if water would cause the filter element to swell and restrict fuel flow. Water is great for cooling, but not your friend in the fuel system.

After I sealed my tank and replaced all the rubber fuel lines I've run only ethanol free gas, the ethanol (alcohol) will attract water and it may be worse in high humidity areas.