w3wilkes

The spring looks like it came out of some garden hand clippers, I have some clippers with springs like that, it pushes them open.

And don't get me wrong, I always thought it was a great color!

In some of the shots it looks like the British Racing Green that was a popular color on the TR4 through TR6's. Didn't pay much attention to the TR8, did it come in the BRG color?

Just for grins. I'm pretty sure that my old stick cars - 2 Maxima's, Stanza, Jeep Loredo, 1st 240Z, Chevy Vega all parked between 3 & 4.

My '71 4 speed parks between 3 & 4 and like CO says, the push from R is much stronger, definitely a spring. It like "just glides" to there from between 1 & 2 with not really a discernable spring type push to the right.

But that exhaust!!! A thing of beauty! So sorry about the brake fluid disaster.

Brigham City, Utah, Sept. 7, 2024 - 1,070 cars. I found I had relatives/in-laws with Z's, we were the only Z's except for a 370Z that was with the tuner cars. The ZX is an original turbo car and the 280Z has a LS under the hood. Different generations, we had a blast and I'm old enough to be their grampa. Funny, one kid about 12-13 walks by and says "look, Jaguars".

It sounds like he already had an electric pump so just put me on ignore. Sorry.

I would have thought if those field modifications had been made the car would already have an electric pump.

I would look around the forward console area for something in the wiring harness wrapped in blue tape. In my 71 240Z it was in the wiring bundle on the right side of the console going to under the dash. I've seen pictures on these boards where it's more like around the left side of the radio body. If you find it you should be able to jumper across the plug, like take a piece of wire and put one end in one side of the plug and the other end of the wire in the other side of the plug. This should give power to the leads that are dangling somewhere near the fuel tank when the key is in the run position. I would maybe recommend an inertia switch in that jumper loop to cut power in the event of a crash and the driver is incapacitated.

I have this exact same issue. ZX dizzy wired just like this. Originally the tach worked fine then one day about 20 years ago I was driving and the tach slowly went all the way pegged. Shut the car off and restarted. Ever since then it's been "lazy" as described here by KC and Ollie. Idle shows about 1,000 RPM and it tends to not go above about 3,500 RPM. Car runs great and I just shift by ear.

I don't know... Did the 2000 or 1600 Roadster have twin Hitachi's or just a single?

Since the E46 is raised lettering it was cast into the tube. This one is slightly different than the one pictured in the ZTherapy master catalog, but I guess they could change things if they want. I know the ZTherapy picture hasn't changed since at least 2017 when I did my ZTherapy carbs.

Here's a picture of an E46 balance tube. https://www.ebay.ph/itm/314808064625 I believe the non-smog is the E41. So yes, I believe you have the ZTherapy modded tube, but who cares, it looks great!

Just a thought on ZTherpy vs stock. If it's stock it would have a model # in the casting like the block, head, intake manifold etc.

Damn that looks nice, really cleans up the look!

I remember a friend from Minnesota would come out in the winter to work and ski at Alta Utah. He had an older version of this Saab, maybe 66 or 67, that was a 2 cycle motor!

I thought the function of the valve was to stop the water flow once the engine was up to temp. If the valve is removed then hot water will flow through the intake manifold, might contribute to vapor locking (percolation). I've seen posts somewhere in these forums about removing that water circuit completely from the Y connection on the spark plug side of the engine and plugging the thermostat connection. And also plugging the intake manifold flowthrough passages.

On my 12/70 built car the top row of the intake manifold, which includes the fuel rail, is all bolts. The common for the exhaust / intake are all studs. I've seen some that say they are all studs, but that's not the way they are on my car. Here's a bad picture but you can see most of the top row of bolts and the one stud in the center on the header. Just make sure you save those special washers that go on the common studs clamping the intake and exhaust, if you do headers you will still need those washers.

Can't wait to see it with the euro balance tube. Did you get the semi polished one that ZTherapy sells or did you find a real one?

As Ken says, those ball joints pop off and push back on pretty easily. I think they may be nylon. Yes, that lever to open the throttle a little in deceleration does as you say "just flap in the breeze".

You don't need to go with the euro balance tube initially, but it is something I'll probably do down the road too. I've removed all the air pump smog stuff currently and kept the PCV and valve cover vent hose. I did go with an ITG air filter and drilled the back plate of the air filter for the carb vent hoses (I T'd the carb float bowl vent hoses so I only had to have one hole for the float vents in the back plate of the air filter) and also did AN fittings for the valve cover hose. Here's a picture of what I did.

I'm with @KenFirch I did the headers. I went the 6to1 ceramic coated headers from MSA with 2.5inch exhaust all the way back. The air pump location is a great place to mount a sanden A/C compressor. EDIT: For the exhaust I just went to a local shop and had them build it. I got a Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow Muffler and am quite please with the result. No problem with ground clearance, it's tucked in nicely.

I had never seen a clear lens on the engine room light. Mine is more like frosted on my 12/71 car and it was also frosted on my 73 car.

Do what Charles @Patcon says... Replace the ignition system once you've verified the choke isn't stuck.