w3wilkes

From what I can see it looks like the LX-516 module is the same thing as the E12-80 module... Thoughts? https://www.ebay.com/p/Standard-Motor-Products-Lx-516-Ignition-Control-Module/1022975711

It's those little things that go wrong that eventually bug you. A number of years ago I was driving my 240Z and all was well. Then one day on a cruise out of the blue the needle on the tach started slowly climbing until it was pegged! Shut the car off, restarted and all was almost well. At idle through about 3200RPM the tach works fine, but then will go no higher than about 3200RPM. Didn't really mind too much as I normally shift by ear and feel anyway. One thing that was changed about 1,000 miles before this happened was the dizzy was replaced with a 280zx distributor (electronic) and the ballast resistor was eliminated. I've gone over the connections and all appears to be well and the car runs and drives just fine. This is pretty minor, but has got to the point where I thought I'd ask if anyone out there has a clue where I might look? Thanks, Wilkes

The front bumper in 73 was extended slightly to add minimal support making it about a 2.5 MPH crash guard to meet US safety standards. As far as I know the rear bumper was the same as all prior years of the 240Z. Not sure about the little rubber pads on the rear bumper ends, I don't remember those on my 73.

Pretty cool! Congrats on the wins!

Probably doesn't want to have Mrs Jeff out DRIVING a super fun car while he WAITS for expensive Porsche parts. ?

Or go to WalMart or UK equivalent and get a Farberware Soft Grips Black Stainless Steel Flavor Injector Set for less than $8 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Farberware-Soft-Grips-Black-Stainless-Steel-Flavor-Injector-Set/17813046

I think this hits the mark pretty well. I have a 2015 Pathfinder and I'm way less than impressed. I had a 2003 Murano that was great and the CVT worked fine. Due to complaints from US buyers Nissan had the "Bright idea" to add simulated shift points to the CVT, BIG MISTAKE! Seems to me that you should just do a real multi-gear tranny rather than gimmick up the CVT to fake shift. After 2 240Z's, 1 Stanza 5 speed stick, 2 Maxima SE's (1992 & 2000) with 5 speed sticks and a 2003 Murano I figured trading in the Murano on the Pathfinder would be a safe move, not so! After the Pathfinder I think I've seen my last new car from Nissan. Nissan seems to have lost their way in the ability to build really solid vehicles, especially at the prices they charge.

I've not had anyone flash their brights at me at night, but they do light up your path! Here's a shot of them on my white garage door so you can see the cutoff. I have the headlight covers from MSA so you notice the reflection on the driveway right in front of my car.

Like @SteveJ I've gone all LED except for the dash lights. The headlights I went with were these from Eagle Lights and they work fine and the price was the best I could find for the pair. I've also now gone with the headlight wiring harness upgrade from @Zs-ondabrain to get rid of the full power draw through the steering column switch pod and also corrects the power flow through the headlight plug as documented in the first post in this thread. https://www.eaglelights.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

If you want to modify the tank venting while the tank is out here's a thread you might be interested in reading;

Congrats! Does your face hurt from that constant SMILE as you're going through the gears? ?

Sounds like the car is pigeon toed so that going forward tends to push the tires inward where going backwards tends to pull them apart.

I guess there were a couple of install options that different dealers used for installing A/C. My series I car had the dealer York compressor installed on the same side as Tom's. I removed the York and installed a Sanden down where the air pump used to be (haven't completed putting it back together yet though). When I did the 3 row radiator with electric fans it wouldn't fit with the York so I had to remove it and go with the low Sanden mount. Old compressor New Compressor

If straight lining works and you can't rely on correcting the oil pressure / AFM switching you could just go with an inertia switch in your new straight line circuit to cut power in the event of an accident.

You could always make your own like AK260

Found the Float Sync's here; http://www.2040-parts.com/datsun-240z-su-carburetor-float-sync-tool-i1994669/

I thought all the 240's stock antenna's had the pointy tip. At least both my 73 and early 71 (build date 12/70) had the pointy tip. My 71 now has an after-market replacement that I got from MSA back in 1991, but I don't think it's available anymore.

And what happened to the Chevelle? Was it a stick? Also a very sweet ride!

I also did the new seat foam and I'm about 5'9". I too noticed that I was higher in the seat by maybe 1 to 1.5 inches. Definitely noticeable, but I kinda like being a little higher. ?

Is it the fuel gauge sender? Once upon a time I had my tank out to clean, paint and seal. When I put the tank back in I buried the sender unit wires between the tank and the car. Had to lower the tank to pull the wires for the sender out.

Yes, the round tops have a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carbs. You can see the heat shield in this shot

I'm guessing that with too much advance on the spark you get the firing happen during the compression stroke which pushes the piston in the opposite direction of travel which may damage pistons, rings or other bottom end components

I'm thinking of all new suspension rubber, strut bearings and the Koni's with stock springs. Found the OEM insulators for the $64.21 on Amazon with free shipping which makes the price difference from after market only about $40! https://www.amazon.com/1970-1978-Nissan-Front-Insulator-54320-E4100/dp/B00TNL7LTK

This part # does not show up on https://parts.nissanusa.com/ Where were you looking?

So nobody has an opinion or knows anything about the $48.00 strut mount insulators?