w3wilkes

It's been 20+ years since I had my bumpers chromed, but the place is still in business and does much chrome work for the hot rod guys. They seem to know what car folks expect. You will want to run a die down the bumper mounting bolts to clean up the threads or you will have trouble tightening the nuts, ask me how I know. https://www.ogdenchrome.com/ They did the bumpers, grill and all other chrome on my wife's truck too.

Only those of us that still use the term "Tin Foil", or I could say "only us old farts".

When you say "horn relay" are you going by a part # on the relay can? Did you trace them? Is there a possibility that a PO put in the relays for a different circuit than the horn, maybe headlights? This could be an early attempt at Dave Irwin's designed headlight relay harness and maybe the relays are now toast.. There is a headlight plug and play harness mod to remove the load of the headlights from the combo switch stalk in the 240Z's. It's available from thezstore https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

I've not had my noise verified, but it's very acceptable to me. I use both a resonator in the tunnel and a muffler at the rear. 2 1/2" pipe all the way, both in and out. I think installation is the key to ground clearance as I have no issues with steep driveways or gutters. Resonator - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/10426-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-round-centercenter-straight-through-performance-muffler Muffler - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/13216-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-x-9-oval-centeroffset-xl-multi-chamber-performance-muffler Pictures;

Darn it! At first I thought we were going to hear it "sucking". Sure looks like it's a nice and smooth action. Super nice work!

I think it looks fantastic! The red "highlights" are a great splash of color in there too. South of you down here in Utah where me and my 240Z hang with the local hot rodders they have a saying... "If the part don't go, chrome it."

On a carb'd car the air is dumped into the back plate of the air cleaner so the air going into the carb from both the valve cover and fresh is also "metered" since it is dumped to the air cleaner before going down the throats. And I believe this was done on these cars also to address the oily gases getting recirced for environmental concerns.

on a carburated car isn't the stock design for the valve cover just a hose connected to the back plate of the air cleaner with nothing regulating airflow either in or out of the valve cover? So on a FI car the airflow must be controlled somehow or is it also just attached to the air intake? On a carburated car I can't see that there's really any difference between the stock routing to the back plate of the air filter vs just a little directly attached air filter to the valve cover. Or am I missing something?

A short video from one of the poker card draw sites. I'm at about the 2 minute mark. https://www.facebook.com/JasonFrankensteinBench/videos/2414948871877032/UzpfSTEwMDAwMDg1ODI5MzMzODoyNDE0OTUyNzU1MjA5OTc3/

Not too many Datsun people out here in northern Utah, I think the winter salt has killed most of the old Datsuns like it did to my 73. So I just go with the regular local hot rodders. But note how much room they give me when we parked in this cemetery! And I took low hand for $80 in the poker draw!

Are you saying this isn't the correct part? Or are you saying this isn't a "new" part? From all Google searches LX-516 shows as correct for a '81 ZX. I doubt it's doing damage to the tach since it's been like this for over 3,000 miles and since the initial tach run up to pegged has never happened again. If the module was going bad would there be any other symptoms besides the tach not reading correctly from 3000 RPM and up?

My 73 240Z bought in July '73 came with the Toyo tires. Funny some things you remember!

From what I can see it looks like the LX-516 module is the same thing as the E12-80 module... Thoughts? https://www.ebay.com/p/Standard-Motor-Products-Lx-516-Ignition-Control-Module/1022975711

It's those little things that go wrong that eventually bug you. A number of years ago I was driving my 240Z and all was well. Then one day on a cruise out of the blue the needle on the tach started slowly climbing until it was pegged! Shut the car off, restarted and all was almost well. At idle through about 3200RPM the tach works fine, but then will go no higher than about 3200RPM. Didn't really mind too much as I normally shift by ear and feel anyway. One thing that was changed about 1,000 miles before this happened was the dizzy was replaced with a 280zx distributor (electronic) and the ballast resistor was eliminated. I've gone over the connections and all appears to be well and the car runs and drives just fine. This is pretty minor, but has got to the point where I thought I'd ask if anyone out there has a clue where I might look? Thanks, Wilkes

The front bumper in 73 was extended slightly to add minimal support making it about a 2.5 MPH crash guard to meet US safety standards. As far as I know the rear bumper was the same as all prior years of the 240Z. Not sure about the little rubber pads on the rear bumper ends, I don't remember those on my 73.

Pretty cool! Congrats on the wins!

Probably doesn't want to have Mrs Jeff out DRIVING a super fun car while he WAITS for expensive Porsche parts. ?

Or go to WalMart or UK equivalent and get a Farberware Soft Grips Black Stainless Steel Flavor Injector Set for less than $8 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Farberware-Soft-Grips-Black-Stainless-Steel-Flavor-Injector-Set/17813046

I think this hits the mark pretty well. I have a 2015 Pathfinder and I'm way less than impressed. I had a 2003 Murano that was great and the CVT worked fine. Due to complaints from US buyers Nissan had the "Bright idea" to add simulated shift points to the CVT, BIG MISTAKE! Seems to me that you should just do a real multi-gear tranny rather than gimmick up the CVT to fake shift. After 2 240Z's, 1 Stanza 5 speed stick, 2 Maxima SE's (1992 & 2000) with 5 speed sticks and a 2003 Murano I figured trading in the Murano on the Pathfinder would be a safe move, not so! After the Pathfinder I think I've seen my last new car from Nissan. Nissan seems to have lost their way in the ability to build really solid vehicles, especially at the prices they charge.

I've not had anyone flash their brights at me at night, but they do light up your path! Here's a shot of them on my white garage door so you can see the cutoff. I have the headlight covers from MSA so you notice the reflection on the driveway right in front of my car.

Like @SteveJ I've gone all LED except for the dash lights. The headlights I went with were these from Eagle Lights and they work fine and the price was the best I could find for the pair. I've also now gone with the headlight wiring harness upgrade from @Zs-ondabrain to get rid of the full power draw through the steering column switch pod and also corrects the power flow through the headlight plug as documented in the first post in this thread. https://www.eaglelights.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

If you want to modify the tank venting while the tank is out here's a thread you might be interested in reading;

Congrats! Does your face hurt from that constant SMILE as you're going through the gears? ?

Sounds like the car is pigeon toed so that going forward tends to push the tires inward where going backwards tends to pull them apart.

I guess there were a couple of install options that different dealers used for installing A/C. My series I car had the dealer York compressor installed on the same side as Tom's. I removed the York and installed a Sanden down where the air pump used to be (haven't completed putting it back together yet though). When I did the 3 row radiator with electric fans it wouldn't fit with the York so I had to remove it and go with the low Sanden mount. Old compressor New Compressor