w3wilkes

First find the size, then get a plug for that size.

A great excuse for a quick run! I'm sure you took the long way. ?

@Joseph@TheZStore Wondering if you guys will be getting any more of these speaker panels https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c02/50-5351

As promised here's the picture of Larry's car I took @ Steamboat Springs Concourse / vintage races - Labor Day weekend 1990. It's what inspired me to jump back on my Z roots. When we got home from Steamboat I took my 73 to a body place and they said it would cost more than it was worth so I went looking for another car and found my current series 1 car.

I would clean / flush the entire fuel system before attempting to start the car. Drain the tank and inspect the inside for rust. Make sure you don't have any split / leaking fuel hoses. And yes, new plugs and wires. Can't remember if the 260's came with electric pump back at the tank or not, but since it appears to have the dealer installed insulation on the fuel rail my guess is the electric pump is probably installed back at the tank too. EDIT: Looking close the insulation isn't on the fuel rail, just on the line from the rail to the front carb. I'd still check for the electric pump back by the tank.

Here's one from a couple days ago in Salt Lake City https://kslnewsradio.com/1903064/i15-pothole-john-gleason/

I just wish I had known all this when I did my tank and stuff a couple of years ago!

In addition to the filler line vent pictured in Carl's post you should leave the top vent on the tank which T's into the fill line vent in Carl's picture. If you're going to have someone do the tank vent deletes for you, have them reverse the direction of the top vent like @z8987 did that then feeds to the vent line shown in Carl's link @ zhome.com. Here's a picture of @z8987 's tank with the single vent - top / rear of tank;

Seems like there was a recent thread about removing the expansion tank and all but one of the vents on the tank. Seems like @Carl Beck gave some direction on doing this and still keep the tank properly vented. The vent on the tank that was kept was also turned 180 degrees to eliminate the need for the horseshoe bend in the vent line. Hopefully Carl will jump in here and either enlighten the thread or tell me I just dreamed this up!

Based on Carl's reply would this be the same issue at less than one third the price or is this correct for a series one car? https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-master-cylinder-7-8-240z-260z-280z-70-78?variant=18837517992049&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwm-fkBRBBEiwA966fZPfEUr63LgJvS2U8A8WuCUYYIJgb8jkWtmcjcC-CFFSpyNBSAwSPZxoCa2IQAvD_BwE#

Jeff, Sure sounds like someone wants a ride in the 680 if not take it for a spin herself! Wilkes

Of the American muscle redo's my vote goes for Challenger as the best done. As for the Japanese... Toyota has decided to give it a try with the new 2020 Supra which isn't too bad (even though it's really a BMW), I can see the "10 second car" from Fast and Furious. EDIT: I fully agree with @grannyknot above! I think Nissan would make a killing going back to the original Z roots.

Those are definite "ratted out"! Right off the top of my head I can count at least 14 things I've "upgraded", except for the front air dam the body is stock and my motor is a numbers match. I think I don't fall in the ratted category.

Just wondering where you draw the line for ratted out?

On the question of using LED's for the license plate, I've done it. These bulbs from Superbrite are a direct fit. 2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate)

I knew I made a good decision on July 20, 1973 when I bought my 73 240Z brand new off the showroom floor! That 1973 car was replaced in 1991 with a 71 240Z. I've been a very happy 240Z owner now for 46 years straight. My good decision feeling is based on the fun of driving the car!

I have a hot rod buddy that lives by this saying... "If it don't go, chrome it".

Looks like it would be right up @ConVerTT's alley! ?

The green and black at the tank are for a optional fuel pump. The green wire doesn't have power by default. There is a connector in the harness up at the front of the console that is connected to nothing and taped with blue tape in the harness. The connector has 2 green wires. You can just jumper this connector and it sends power to the green wire at the tank. It is on the key and powered with the key in the On position. The black wire is the Neg (ground) for the pump. If you do a electric fuel pump you should put an inertia switch in the loop to jumper the connector so power to the pump will be cut in a crash. The dealer did put in an electric pump in my 73 after my complaining about vapor locking. Don't know about how the wiring was done up at the console, but there were a couple more relay type brass enclosures put on the body side of the passenger footwell kick panel. On my 71 I just jumpered the connector with an inertia switch in the loop.

Got my Rota's here in May 2017. https://www.18racing.com/collections/

Are you saying it's more of an aesthetics thing? My car has had no issues with anything in the all original drive line for over 100,000 miles that I'm aware of (build 12/70).

That's right, just a jumper across that blank fuel pump plug in the loom sends power to the pump. Any safety device like your oil pressure detector or if you use a inertia switch, they just go in that jumper loop. An inertia switch would allow the pump to run when the key is on without oil pressure being detected. My own preference is the inertia switch in the jumper loop so the pump runs anytime the key is in the on position. This allows me to pressurize the fuel system before I actually start the car and will cut power to the pump in the event of a crash. The oil pump detector method requires a circuit that will run the pump with the switch in the start position without oil pressure. This thread covers the circuit you need for the oil pump switch method.

Was it you that said you're also going with a RetroSound radio head unit? If so, it does have a couple of USB dongles. I asked RetroSound if those will charge and they said no so of course I had to test. They seem to charge my Moto X4 just fine. I use Bluetooth from the phone to the radio head unit to play music from the PowerAmp app on my phone. The phone function of the RetroSound also works great. I just clipped the mic to the dashboard bottom on the driver side just above the console. Wilkes Here's my cruisin' song list ?

I used a different set from Wesco because it can be installed in the series 1 car without having to drill additional holes. I didn't have to remove the console for the inner buckle strap install. I used the stock attachment point that is accessible without removing the console. I doubt the MSA belt would require console removal, from the picture it looks like the inner belt piece uses the stock mounting point too. https://www.wescoperformance.com/roadster-seat-belt-eb.html

I went with these in the stock buckets, even was able to fit the anti-flicker block in the stock buckets too. https://www.eaglelights.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015 Had to use the anti-flicker block with the stock headlight wiring. I've just swapped to the MSA headlight relay upgrade and will see if I can remove the anti-flicker blocks. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651 I think the headlight relay kit changes the wiring so that the center post is ground rather than the 2 outer posts which is stock. I 1st tried without the blocks and the lights wouldn't come on at all. I think the blocks changed the polarity so I had light. When I get around to trying again without the blocks I'll let you know if my thinking is correct. Here's my initial thoughts when I first installed the lights.