w3wilkes

Super "trick" and very much eye candy! Looks amazing.

Thanks for the 2¢. So my thinking was backwards (not that unusual). The urethane bushing kit will be a little less harsh than the T/C kit. From other reading it sounds like a little less tightening with the urethane bushings will also slightly reduce the harshness of urethane.

My thought on the T/C tension rod kit with the rubber bushings is it would be somewhat less harsh than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Maybe somewhere between stock and the urethane kit?? Sorry for blaming you, I've now taken ownership of my deeds, so you're off the hook!

My wife says it's your fault. I also pulled the trigger on the Koni's along with bushings, insulators. The old "while I'm in there...". MSA is checking one thing and will call in the AM. After reading through this thread I'm thinking it sounds better than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Thoughts either way?? This will be something to do this winter.

I think those spacers are to bring the rear of the car up to match the front. The front has bearings where those spacers would be to allow the steering to work.

From what I've seen the real bidding will be in the last half hour / 15 minutes of the auction. I'd hold off to the end before you pull the trigger on bidding.

Don't get me wrong, I also do the phone thing for my orders and you are right on about them being "nice as can be" over the phone. Just wish the website would actually reflect what's really available.

Too bad. MSA needs to do a better job of putting the "Availability" note on items not in stock! @Joseph@TheZStore - This isn't the only item that doesn't show as not available!

Even though Dave no longer supplies the headlight wiring harness kit it is still available from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

Curios to know if you'll do the internally regulated alternator change and delete the mechanical voltage regulator? Along the same lines, are you going to do the headlight relay harness mod? Wilkes

All done... $66,420 final. Holy crap Batman!

It's been 20+ years since I had my bumpers chromed, but the place is still in business and does much chrome work for the hot rod guys. They seem to know what car folks expect. You will want to run a die down the bumper mounting bolts to clean up the threads or you will have trouble tightening the nuts, ask me how I know. https://www.ogdenchrome.com/ They did the bumpers, grill and all other chrome on my wife's truck too.

Only those of us that still use the term "Tin Foil", or I could say "only us old farts".

When you say "horn relay" are you going by a part # on the relay can? Did you trace them? Is there a possibility that a PO put in the relays for a different circuit than the horn, maybe headlights? This could be an early attempt at Dave Irwin's designed headlight relay harness and maybe the relays are now toast.. There is a headlight plug and play harness mod to remove the load of the headlights from the combo switch stalk in the 240Z's. It's available from thezstore https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

I've not had my noise verified, but it's very acceptable to me. I use both a resonator in the tunnel and a muffler at the rear. 2 1/2" pipe all the way, both in and out. I think installation is the key to ground clearance as I have no issues with steep driveways or gutters. Resonator - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/10426-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-round-centercenter-straight-through-performance-muffler Muffler - https://www.magnaflow.com/products/13216-performance-muffler-magnaflow-4-x-9-oval-centeroffset-xl-multi-chamber-performance-muffler Pictures;

Darn it! At first I thought we were going to hear it "sucking". Sure looks like it's a nice and smooth action. Super nice work!

I think it looks fantastic! The red "highlights" are a great splash of color in there too. South of you down here in Utah where me and my 240Z hang with the local hot rodders they have a saying... "If the part don't go, chrome it."

On a carb'd car the air is dumped into the back plate of the air cleaner so the air going into the carb from both the valve cover and fresh is also "metered" since it is dumped to the air cleaner before going down the throats. And I believe this was done on these cars also to address the oily gases getting recirced for environmental concerns.

on a carburated car isn't the stock design for the valve cover just a hose connected to the back plate of the air cleaner with nothing regulating airflow either in or out of the valve cover? So on a FI car the airflow must be controlled somehow or is it also just attached to the air intake? On a carburated car I can't see that there's really any difference between the stock routing to the back plate of the air filter vs just a little directly attached air filter to the valve cover. Or am I missing something?

A short video from one of the poker card draw sites. I'm at about the 2 minute mark. https://www.facebook.com/JasonFrankensteinBench/videos/2414948871877032/UzpfSTEwMDAwMDg1ODI5MzMzODoyNDE0OTUyNzU1MjA5OTc3/

Not too many Datsun people out here in northern Utah, I think the winter salt has killed most of the old Datsuns like it did to my 73. So I just go with the regular local hot rodders. But note how much room they give me when we parked in this cemetery! And I took low hand for $80 in the poker draw!

Are you saying this isn't the correct part? Or are you saying this isn't a "new" part? From all Google searches LX-516 shows as correct for a '81 ZX. I doubt it's doing damage to the tach since it's been like this for over 3,000 miles and since the initial tach run up to pegged has never happened again. If the module was going bad would there be any other symptoms besides the tach not reading correctly from 3000 RPM and up?

My 73 240Z bought in July '73 came with the Toyo tires. Funny some things you remember!

From what I can see it looks like the LX-516 module is the same thing as the E12-80 module... Thoughts? https://www.ebay.com/p/Standard-Motor-Products-Lx-516-Ignition-Control-Module/1022975711

It's those little things that go wrong that eventually bug you. A number of years ago I was driving my 240Z and all was well. Then one day on a cruise out of the blue the needle on the tach started slowly climbing until it was pegged! Shut the car off, restarted and all was almost well. At idle through about 3200RPM the tach works fine, but then will go no higher than about 3200RPM. Didn't really mind too much as I normally shift by ear and feel anyway. One thing that was changed about 1,000 miles before this happened was the dizzy was replaced with a 280zx distributor (electronic) and the ballast resistor was eliminated. I've gone over the connections and all appears to be well and the car runs and drives just fine. This is pretty minor, but has got to the point where I thought I'd ask if anyone out there has a clue where I might look? Thanks, Wilkes