w3wilkes

I love those wheels. Had them on my 73 Z until one got bent in the 80's. Couldn't get a replacement so I ended up changing all 4. I now have the Rota RB's on the 71 and am very happy with them.

I do run the return. When it's cold out and the car is cold I will turn on the ignition so the pump will pressurize the system, say maybe 5 - 10 seconds. Makes the car easier to start. Don't know how cold you get there in July - August, but here today's hi was -1.11C (30* F). We do occasionally get 7.2 - 12.7C (45 - 55*F) December - March that are good driving days. I would still have to crank 2 to 5 seconds to fire. Don't know if the 3 deuces are easier / the same / or harder to start in the cold. 3 deuces is a term from a song by Ronny and the Daytona's called "Little GTO" back in 1964 about the first Pontiac GTO's that had 3 2 barrel carby's. The GTO was pretty much what started the American muscle cars through the rest of the 60's and into the 70's until the oil embargo when they fell out of favor due to mileage and then pollution control requirements. What a fun time to grow up.

@Home Built by JeffA note on the K&N pump you have. I've been running it for over a year now without a pressure regulator on my SU's with no trouble. MSA sells this pump and says that you don't need a regulator with it. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a09/11-3078 The pump isn't exactly what I'd call quiet, but with my 6to1 headers, 2.5" exhaust with https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=10426 as a resonator and https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=13216 for the muffler you can't hear it once the motor is started.

If you still want the bumper installed picks here's 3 shots of the bumper/valance spacing on my series 1 car, both sides and center. Looks like it's about 3/8's all the way across.

What tires are you thinking about? Some big fatties?

Just followin' your lead! And it looks like the 60's were good to a bunch of us. ?

(Alice's Restaurant). and creatin' a nuisance...they all came back and shook my hand and we had a great time...

Glad you found this thread and that it worked out for you... Now, what else to do with all that money you saved!? ?

It would be fun to put these on my series 1 car. I put in 77 seats so I can have the fold forward option and much easier to adjust the recline. I don't think anybody that goes to car shows here in Utah would even know the seats or corner protectors weren't correct.

I really didn't like the recliner adjustment on my series 1 car and with the plastic tool housing being right behind the seat was a pain to get to. Since my car isn't completely series 1 correct anymore I had no issue sourcing later style seats that fold forward and have the spring seat bases instead of the straps. I got the new foam from MSA and recovered them in leather from Interior Innovations and am very pleased with the result.

The car may be a 73 with an L28 block, but those are not 73 carbs. From what I can see they are 4 screw early SU round tops. So they're more like 70 - 71 carbs. @siteunseen 's pictures are pretty much like you want it to look when your done de-emmisioning it.

I think putting 260Z bumpers on a 280Z has not been desirable enough for anyone to do it. Many want to do 240Z bumpers on all 74 through 78 Z's so that's the market for any kits. For what you want to do it will be a full custom job = $$$. Just my opinion.

I know this thread is old, but I was over on Z car Depot and they have spacers for $10 if anybody needs one. https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-pump-spacer-plate-240z-260z?utm_source=beeketing&utm_medium=precommend&app=precommend#

Is there an abridged version? ?

My 71 (same month build as your car) after sitting garaged for 14 years had frozen wheel cylinders. If you don't care about pure correctness you can use the 73-76 style cylinders, they're like $50 vs $240 @ MSA (the $165 ones are NLA). Had to do a little bend mod on the hard line, but that was no big deal.

Wow! My 73 with flat tops always required a lot of cranking to get it to fire when cold for the ~20 years I drove it. When warm it would fire instantly as long as I wasn't in vapor lock territory. I had both mech and electric fuel pumps and that made no difference. If I let the electric run for a bit before I tried to start it would be easier, but still needed some cranking. EDIT: When I say cold I'm referring to winter time with temps at or below freezing which is a typical northern Utah morning winter temp.

Nissan will be of little help. You can check ICZZ http://www.zhome.com/ and see if a prior owner registered the car on Carl Beck's history and Z info site. You can ask who you bought it from if they know who the prior owner is. Really not much you can do beyond following back through who you bought it from and the Z registry.

Of course the car pictured in Adrian's article can't be it?!

My impressions of the 3 above... The white one looks more like it's modeled after the current Corvette rather than the original Z (I think the current (C7) Corvette coupe is a masterpiece, but the convertible doesn't impress me) The brownish orange one seems to follow the same lines as all the other Nissans which doesn't really excite me. The blue one from the angle shown is the most reminiscent of the 240Z lines. If the rear end were more squared up it would be better. Of course these are just my own opinions on the 3 concepts shown

I'll be curious to see how the tail light panels look after being installed with the lights and not having the chrome accent around the tail lights.

Agree on check the hoses. If they sat that long with ethanol laced fuel it could have damaged the lines. there's also some small float bowl filters at the SU carbs that may be clogged with bits of fuel line. Once you get it figured out you may want to switch to ethanol free fuel if it's available in your area. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-2503

Here's where my wife's started when she inherited it in 1993 - sitting in the same place of the picture taken in 2017. Edit: Sorry this got dragged so far OT.

Yea, my wife's got a truck too. It was her Dads, she drove it in high school. Didn't look quite like this then.

I agree with 26thZ. Power brakes and vacuum assist … Big difference, I consider power brakes as brakes that have a belt or electric pump for the braking system, requires power from either the engine or alternator.

Can't say for certain, but I thought the block parts were pretty much the same through 72. https://www.ebay.com/i/152926893027?chn=ps I've not had to open mine up, it works fine. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone on the boards knows for sure and will jump in.