w3wilkes

Ken, Sent you a PM. I think you'd need to use google to find glass, it is out there. I think most of the glass is interchangeable from 1970 to 1978 (if anyone knows better, chime in). The biggest difference on the early car is the direction of the hatch window defroster lines. The early cars lines are vertical, not sure when they went horizontal, my guess is 72, my 73 had horizontal defroster lines. Wilkes

@7tooZ From your picture it appears that you've added lights to your footwells??

I'm thinking that because I took the picture in the dark without flash and have the light in the frame it sped up the exposure. 7tooZ doesn't have the light in the frame so the picture got more exposure. I think the light in both our cars is pretty close to the same. I might go take a shot from 7tooZ's camera perspective and I'll bet I get a picture more like what 7tooZ posted.

Here's an interior picture with the LED dome light on and no flash.

@motorman7 Has got some info in his thread starting here;

Hey Ken, I'm just up the street in Layton. Wilkes

In the female connector to the male connector on the switch is there some stray crap that may be hitting the top of the switch giving a small short in the circuit or maybe is the female connector pushed on too far? If you just set the female connector on the male connection of the switch is the light still on dim?

Those 15xxx builds must be early December, my 17486 is also a December 1970 build. Some things had already begun transition to series II, my map light has the hood on it.

Thanks for the quick response. I had heard that Toyota may have painted the inside of some of the Camry oil pans and some oil additives may have caused the paint to soften, peel and clog the screen of the oil pickup.

I've not ever removed a stock oil pan from a 240Z. My question is did Datsun paint the inside of the oil pan or is it just bare metal?

I did all my lights in LED except the dash a year ago and am quite pleased with the outcome. Here's the list of bulbs including the dome light I put in another thread;

I find the interlock definition a little strange for the 72 car, I was not aware that this was done on any 240z. My USA 73 240 manual transmission had seat belt buzzer only. You could start the car in any gear or in neutral without having your seatbelt buckled. The buzzer would go whenever the car was in gear, it would turn off while shifting between gears, but would come right back on once in gear. You could just unplug it from the seat if you wanted, but I decided that I'd just leave it connected and use it to train me to get in the habit of wearing my seat belt. Since the car was my daily driver for about 20 years it's now automatic, get in a car and the first thing I do is put on my seat belt.

Just guessing here, but since the VIN tag is riveted my money says it's part of the dash frame that the old dash is removed from and the new dash is attached to.

WOW! I figured at todays exchange rate it would be more like $340 CDN for both seats foam. So with tax and all else it is probably be close to a wash on the aftermarket race seats. And you would be able to use the covers and seats that you already have.

I got the foam from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 less than $130 US for the foam. Bought some 77 seats so I could have the seat back adjustment that allows the seats to flip forward. I also did the leather from interior innovations with matching shift boot and ebrake boot. I figure with all of that I'm still under the cost of a pair of aftermarket race seats and still has a mostly stock look in my 240

Much like 70's architecture in the US too. I noticed in the floor plan that there's a Porsche in the garage.

I agree with @psdenno. Unless you're going for a pure restore I'd skip the AM radio. I've gone with the RetroSound radio with Bluetooth that looks as close to stock as it gets, no more CD's or cassettes to clutter up the car. I have ~1,200 albums on my phone to choose from.

In the USA generally if your car is over 40 years old you can get a "vintage" registration that allows you to miss on some emissions levels. I would say that even most of our cars would pass the local emissions levels required for their years, like your 432 does.

Don't know if there were any differences between dealers on the installation of electric fuel pumps on the '73s, but my 73 240 electric pump ran when the ignition was turned on. When the car was cold I would let the pump run for a bit before starting the car, seemed to make it a little easier to start when cold. If you can't find a spacer and one is required for the mech pump, you can get a block off plate for the mech pump and use an electric pump.

The sensor is what you referenced as "1" above. It's in the valve you provided the diagrams of. I know there's at least 1 other thread on that valve and how it works.

The 240z sensor does NOT have to be manually reset, it re-centers itself. My wheel cylinders were frozen with rust and the brake warning light would come on when the brakes were applied and go off when brake pedal released. I replaced the wheel cylinders and that cured the light coming on. The light works fine for the park brake. From the original description it sounds like the dim light is on all the time when the ignition is on regardless of the brakes being applied or not. My guess is a short in the sensor.

What fan controller do you have? I used the Auto Cool 50 that came with my dual fan system from MSA. The sensor is like a foil piece that gets sandwiched between the radiator hose and radiator water outflow pipe. http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8511ca_d0fd243fbf97409ebfac8038f0593b0f.pdf

In addition to the headlight relay mod from Dave Irwin I went LED on all my external lights with LED compatible flasher modules for the blinkers and emergency flashers. I think this very much reduces the load on the whole wiring harness and combo / turn signal switches on the steering column. Other electrical upgrades are swapping the distributer from a ZX to eliminate points/condenser/ballast resistor and alternator upgrade to a 60amp w/internal voltage regulator and eliminate the old mechanical voltage regulator. Most of this stuff is available from MSA - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic10l

So far that new dash looks fantastic. Looking forward to getting all the gauges and other stuff installed.

Doing some searching it looks like your best option is ebay and it looks like you'll have to buy the whole clock. The cheapest one I've found is $50. Probably doesn't work. Refurb'd clocks are WAY MORE. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-JECO-ANALOG-CLOCK-TOYOTA-CELICA/192667398135?hash=item2cdbdf2ff7:g:nxMAAOSwMz9bf0-f&vxp=mtr Found a tach for $14 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Tachometer-Factory-OEM-Nissan-240Z-Series-2/153185688931?hash=item23aa941d63:g:Cs0AAOSwoAVbZnu2&vxp=mtr