w3wilkes

Thanks for the clarity, I thought that's pretty much what I said about the shaft volume increasing in the strut is what compresses the gas. Since these new Koni's are adjustable, I'd guess that the adjustment is to what you refer to as the "damper valve(s)" which changes how easily the oil can move through the plate attached to the shaft. The more open the Damper valve(s), the softer the ride.

So in you diagram the plate (red arrows) inside the strut that the shaft is attached to has holes so the oil flows through the plate and it's the additional shaft volume inside the strut that compresses the gas. This plate is to keep the shaft centered in the strut. This does make sense to me.

Question, taxing your memory... When you went to ZCCA convention in CO was there a guy named Larry Hutfulls (probably misspelled) in the CO club? There used to be vintage cars races on the streets of Steamboat Springs and a concourse show over Labor Day weekend that my wife and I would go to from 91 through 2000 (last year they were held in Steamboat). In 91 or 92 there was a very nice 240Z in the show and I talked to the guy and he mentioned the Z car club in Denver and I thought that's what he said his name was. The car was like a dark purple, very nicely done.

Good point, I now realize that!

Thanks for grabbing the video! Nice car and music even though I can't understand the lyrics. Can't tell what year the car is, guessing somewhere between 74 - 78, Did those years keep the small bumpers in Japan?

Can't see the video here, say's it hasn't been made available in your country. If I can't see it, it didn't happen.

Yes, looks just like my series 1 car. If you go electric fuel pump the connector to jumper to get power back to the fuel pump wires is in that bundle of wires. The car has wiring for an electric pump already installed, that's the other pair of wires back at the fuel gauge sending unit back at the tank. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop so the fuel pump would be shut off in a crash.

Just had a thought since you ordered the new tank straps from Skillard. These straps should have a rubber insulator between the strap and the tank. You can get them from ZCar depot https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-tank-rubber-strap-isolators-240z-260z-280z?variant=19274419437681&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaTjBRAdEiwAOdx9xlj3VBstKlgn_BJhwBWrINtQJsFKckUXPAgKXU1fGLg1u9gI09QnxhoC5N0QAvD_BwE#

Thanks! I had not noticed that on ZHome before.

I think this is still used for the 1 remaining tank vent and the fuel filler line vent along with the line that goes to the Flow Guide Valve in the engine bay. Is this true @Carl Beck? My Fuel Guide valve still has the line from the vapor tank, is caped on the inlet from the air cleaner and just left open on the line to the crank case with the crank inlet plugged.

I won't take credit for the 100-120 amp, it was @wheee!. I went with the 60 amp from MSA on my 240Z.

Don't you still need the voltage regulator replacement adapter to go this route?

Another electrical upgrade that takes most of the headlight electrical load off the fuse box and multifunction headlight switch on the steering column is this headlight wiring mod. It also allows you to flexibility on headlight upgrades. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

If you can't find an old 240Z voltage regulator that works or down the road you decide you need more power from your charging system you could go down this road that would allow you to go with a more modern electronic internally regulated alternator. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b04/12-4067

There are about 1/4" thick flat rubber pads that go in these red outlined indents. I think with these pads and the rubber lining on the tank straps the tank is electrically isolated from the rest of the car. I believe that's why the fuel gauge sending unit has a ground wire. When you mount the tank back in the car be sure that you have the wires for the sending unit and fuel pump where you can get them and don't bury them between the tank and body of the car or you'll have to lower the tank again. Ask me how I know this? Sure wish I'd known that I could've eliminated all those vents! Oh well...

I used Purple Power a couple of years ago https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O Spray on, let sit for a few minutes and then hit it with a power washer. then used a small brass brush on the valve cover, intake and balance tube. The prior (original) owner kept it pretty clean. After I bought the car in 1991 we did full body and paint in 1992. It is a color change. We pulled just about everything but the engine from the engine bay, wrapped the engine in paper and shot the engine bay door and hatch jambs. Here's an old picture taken while we were putting stuff back in the engine bay. You can see that the engine was kept pretty clean all along. The windshield was pulled before the exterior was sprayed. It got parked in 2002 with a carb issue and with other priorities the car ended up sitting in the garage for 14 years. Fast forward to late 2016 the wife said... You need to do something with the Z. Spring, summer and into fall of 2017 was spent getting it running again with several upgrades. Many new items, air filter, radiator and electric fans, silicone radiator hoses, heater hoses (boy was that fun) ZTherapy rebuilt carbs, replaced frozen rear wheel cylinders, cap and rotor (did the electronic zx distributor swap back in early 2002), plug wires, all new rubber for fuel lines, tank dropped cleaned and lined, headers, full 2.5" exhaust w/Magnaflow resonator and muffler, clutch master and slave cylinder, 60 amp alternator internally regulated conversion, headlight relay conversion, headlights and all exterior map glove box and dome bulbs changed to LED, electric fuel pump, new A/C compressor (A/C still needs to be finished), new seats from a '77 Z so I could have the seat tilt lever with new foam and leather, shift and E-brake boots leather, new wheels and tires. Here's the air filter https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3023

Where do those heater hoses go? I've never seen that before. Or don't you have a heater and those are A/C?

Just checked the K&N web site and they say the fittings on the pump I used from MSA is 5/16" so I may have used 5/16's and 3/8" for supply and return respectively. At any rate, the Gates hose from O'Reilly's was cheap. I used this pump https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3078 It's a K&N 81-402. Here's how I mounted it

I went the rubber route and I think I used 3/8" on supply side and 1/4" on return, carbs and float vents. Same sizes at the tank. All Gates brand E85 rated from O'Reilly's and they fit just fine. Sorry I can't look, the car is 300+ miles away and I won't be there until the end of April.

Wonder if anything here can be repurposed? ? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+pipe+screens&hvadid=241929059160&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029961&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3326462611205813048&hvtargid=kwd-19245041717&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_48yir4no39_e

Looks more like a guest star on one of the original Star Trek episodes.

A couple of years ago when I did my tank I used this stuff and it has held up nicely. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-5200-Standard-Sealer/dp/B00DMIDUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531949798&sr=8-2&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer

It's also a good idea to replace all the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the carbs.

Once you get the drums off if you decide you need to replace the wheel cylinders you might find this thread of help. The wheel cylinders for that car are very expensive, but can be replaced with the much cheaper ones on the slightly later cars.

Computerized record keeping, surely you jest... I don't recall seeing terminals back in the 70's, but did see fiche readers at the dealer for parts catalogs I bought my 73 from. Even credit card receipts back in the day were done using a carbon paper form on a flatbed card imprinter. https://www.amazon.com/Data-Systems-Manual-Imprinter-515-101-002/dp/B008UQ81S4 I think the original copy was then sent to a credit card processing facility that used an OCR (Optical character reader) to input the form on a mainframe computer.