w3wilkes
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Everything posted by w3wilkes
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Just guessing here, but since the VIN tag is riveted my money says it's part of the dash frame that the old dash is removed from and the new dash is attached to.
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WOW! I figured at todays exchange rate it would be more like $340 CDN for both seats foam. So with tax and all else it is probably be close to a wash on the aftermarket race seats. And you would be able to use the covers and seats that you already have.
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I got the foam from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2691 less than $130 US for the foam. Bought some 77 seats so I could have the seat back adjustment that allows the seats to flip forward. I also did the leather from interior innovations with matching shift boot and ebrake boot. I figure with all of that I'm still under the cost of a pair of aftermarket race seats and still has a mostly stock look in my 240
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Much like 70's architecture in the US too. I noticed in the floor plan that there's a Porsche in the garage.
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I agree with @psdenno. Unless you're going for a pure restore I'd skip the AM radio. I've gone with the RetroSound radio with Bluetooth that looks as close to stock as it gets, no more CD's or cassettes to clutter up the car. I have ~1,200 albums on my phone to choose from.
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In the USA generally if your car is over 40 years old you can get a "vintage" registration that allows you to miss on some emissions levels. I would say that even most of our cars would pass the local emissions levels required for their years, like your 432 does.
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Don't know if there were any differences between dealers on the installation of electric fuel pumps on the '73s, but my 73 240 electric pump ran when the ignition was turned on. When the car was cold I would let the pump run for a bit before starting the car, seemed to make it a little easier to start when cold. If you can't find a spacer and one is required for the mech pump, you can get a block off plate for the mech pump and use an electric pump.
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The sensor is what you referenced as "1" above. It's in the valve you provided the diagrams of. I know there's at least 1 other thread on that valve and how it works.
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The 240z sensor does NOT have to be manually reset, it re-centers itself. My wheel cylinders were frozen with rust and the brake warning light would come on when the brakes were applied and go off when brake pedal released. I replaced the wheel cylinders and that cured the light coming on. The light works fine for the park brake. From the original description it sounds like the dim light is on all the time when the ignition is on regardless of the brakes being applied or not. My guess is a short in the sensor.
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What fan controller do you have? I used the Auto Cool 50 that came with my dual fan system from MSA. The sensor is like a foil piece that gets sandwiched between the radiator hose and radiator water outflow pipe. http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8511ca_d0fd243fbf97409ebfac8038f0593b0f.pdf
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In addition to the headlight relay mod from Dave Irwin I went LED on all my external lights with LED compatible flasher modules for the blinkers and emergency flashers. I think this very much reduces the load on the whole wiring harness and combo / turn signal switches on the steering column. Other electrical upgrades are swapping the distributer from a ZX to eliminate points/condenser/ballast resistor and alternator upgrade to a 60amp w/internal voltage regulator and eliminate the old mechanical voltage regulator. Most of this stuff is available from MSA - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic10l
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So far that new dash looks fantastic. Looking forward to getting all the gauges and other stuff installed.
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Doing some searching it looks like your best option is ebay and it looks like you'll have to buy the whole clock. The cheapest one I've found is $50. Probably doesn't work. Refurb'd clocks are WAY MORE. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-JECO-ANALOG-CLOCK-TOYOTA-CELICA/192667398135?hash=item2cdbdf2ff7:g:nxMAAOSwMz9bf0-f&vxp=mtr Found a tach for $14 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Tachometer-Factory-OEM-Nissan-240Z-Series-2/153185688931?hash=item23aa941d63:g:Cs0AAOSwoAVbZnu2&vxp=mtr
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I used KBS Coatings 5500 Gold Standard Tank Sealer on a friends recommendation a year ago and have had no problems.
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I wasn't sure from your description... Are you using the original wiring that Datsun put in for an electric pump? That's what I used on my 12/70 built car. The pump comes on when the key is in the run and start positions, but not in ACC.
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Thanks for the pdf. -
What would you suggest we open a .dwg file with?
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Mathew, WOW! What a nice table, thanks. I'll just have to remember that per your table with my 205/60 R15's that when my speedo reads 100 MPH I'm really only going 98.63 MPH. I call that "close enough". I'm guessing that you used 82% for this final version of the table? I will mention that I have the same original unused spare tire as Mike. I may be a lousy measurer, but I got 25.125" inflated to 25 PSI so Mike and I are less than .05" different.
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If you get too frustrated with your old hose it looks like there's some OEM ones on ebay, but they'll run about $125.00. I went the new hose option last year. Replaced all the vent hoses and filler hose except for the one on the top of the tank. That hose was still in really good shape. The new filler hose was nice and soft and went on no issues. This also eliminated the fuel smell in the cabin. I couldn't see any cracks in the old hoses, but I think the filler hose seal was bad around the gas cap. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=240z+fuel+filler+hose&_sacat=0
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My tombstone washer is metal and so is the backing sleeve that goes over the pin that my bolt replaces. I think all these parts are brass. Didn't mention before, but I used MRO Solution #10 Blue in the newly tapped bolt hole to keep the bolt from backing out like the micro screw did. If my cable ever breaks I'll use your piano wire fix and again won't have to disassemble the choke lever housing from the console!
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Really impressed with your CAD work! What I did, using your CAD image, was eliminate the items marked A here and tapped the hole marked B for the bolt I used to replace all A marked items. This allowed me to leave the housing attached to the console console and only remove the choke lever from the housing to tap the B hole. Since my car didn't have the throttle lever and I've replaced the radio with a RetroSound Bluetooth radio I repurposed the throttle lever slot for the antenna up/down rocker.
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Other than that post by @Arne I've only seen 195/70 R14 listed for a 280Z http://www.automobile-catalog.com/tire/1978/2104790/datsun_280_z.html Then using the Discount Tire size calculator and comparing the 195/70 R14 to a 175/78 R14 the RPM's are identical https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator I run 205/60 R15 which comes out to a 2 RPM difference from what I believe is stock tire size using the Discount Tire size calculator.
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I thought the 240Z OEM 175 R14's had a ratio of 78, not 82 and I thought the 280Z was 195/70 R14. See post's 13 and 14 in this thread.
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Here's a whole thread on the subject. The issue is the FSM says all studs, but on the actual cars that people have bolts were used on the top 6 holes rather than studs..
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I did take a shot of how my revised assembly of the choke lever parts. The bolt will replace the little brass bar, "micro" washer and "micro" screw.
