w3wilkes

Not sure that this will work on Datsun wiring since this was developed for Lucas electrics... Sorry, couldn't help myself. http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

I've also gone LED on all my external lighting. I used 2 of these, 1 for emergency flashers and 1 for blinkers, works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XS8VX2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jeff, I've really enjoyed watching your Datsun build. As you said there's some controversy around the mirrors. They do look COOL. I considered them way back when, but ended up just going with the stock mirror on the drivers door. A few reasons I ended up on the door... They will be in the way when working under the bonnet (hood) Adjusting the mirrors seems like a pain getting in and out of the car to make adjustments or else it will be a 2 person job. Hopefully you and Mrs Jeff use the same mirror position. (picture your complaint about the side of the car the bonnet kick stand is on) If the glass in the mirrors is flat it seems that with the mirrors that far away from the driver the field of view will make them not very effective. They do look cool, but I don't think you'll see the mirrors on the fenders (guards) on the race cars.

I just happen to be replacing the seats in my 71 with seats from a 77 and going leather from Interior Innovations. While taking the 77 seats apart I did notice that I could see through the center insert panels where the backing foam had disintegrated so I don't think it's just an embossed pattern on a solid surface.

Here's a short thread of mine that ends with the newer affordable style wheel cylinders installed replacing the older very spendy wheel cylinders.

Mark Maras posted this. It was printed by the factory http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf Here's the thread

Can't speak to suppliers, I got mine from MSA I got the 3 row and it seems to be doing the job somewhat better than the stock radiator. I also changed to running Evans waterless coolant with the new radiator. My reasons for 3 row were that I went with electric fans and the waterless coolant.

Antenna should tip more to the rear of the car.

I did headers and deleted the EGR pump side of things. On my series 1 PCV and carb venting I went with the ITG filter and tapped both the valve cover with AN10 fittings and carburetor vents with regular fuel line to the back plate so they'd still flow as designed and kept the stock PCV setup which I think is a good thing. I used the MSA 50mm height velocity stacks which are fairly close to the stock air filter stack height. After the dealership drilled the big holes in my 1973 stock orange box to help with the vapor lock issue I figured this setup is very close to stock and also looks pretty darn good.

Interesting... Same picture as Interior Innovations http://www.interior-innovations.com/assets/uploads/66350-IMG_0434.jpg

The only lights that aren't LED on my car are the dash lights. I think you've not needed the anti-flicker because you'd already done the relay conversion.

I've gone with LED headlights which I talked about here. All was well until last night. Just went to drive around the block just after dark and flipped the switch and nothing, just running lights and no headlights. Pulled into the garage and for grins hit the brights and boom, headlights, hit low beams and they were on. Apparently one of the jobs of the anti flicker device corrects the current flow (most of the time) to the bulb. Because LED's are diodes they will only fire when current is applied in the allowed direction. Here's what a typical 6024 bulb expects so I'm pretty sure a LED bulb is built expecting this configuration. The 240Z is wired with power on 3 with 1 & 2 being ground. This is fine for a standard filament bulb, but not for diodes. Most of the time the anti-flicker piece takes care of this. It was a really tight fit to get the anti-flicker device in the stock buckets, but it can be done. I thought that having LED's on all lights but the dash I really didn't need the harness mod because I'd reduced the amp draw plenty so not to stress the fuse block or multi-function switch. Well after the issue last night I think I'll go with Dave's relay mod anyway because it not only takes the load off the multi-function switch, but also looks like it will allow me to get rid of the anti-flicker device, if this diagram is really of Dave's headlight relay mod. I think the other function of the anti-flicker device is to put info on the circuit so a smart car won't think the bulbs out to trigger some dash light or something to let the driver know they've got a burned out bulb. Our Zed's aren't that smart so I'll bet I won't need the anti-flicker. Here's what I see the before and after of Dave's harness on the headlights as I really don't think it makes a difference if you're north or south of the equator.

This one is much more reasonable and open for some fudge room "OBO". Some of the weather stripping looks like it could use replacing but overall pretty nice. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/datsun/240z/2111497.html

I have a compressor and my friend lent me this https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV6835-Vacuum-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B0015POUXM Makes bleeding brakes and clutch a one man job and it's a breeze. The pictured upside down tank keeps the reservoir full while the other end hooks up to the compressor and sucks the fluid through.

I'm partial to the ones that have brass contacts, I think they conduct better. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/standard+motor+products,JH66,distributor+cap,7120 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=46494&cc=1209169&jsn=366

Thanks! Mine is actually not the MSA Premium exhaust system, just the coated headers are from MSA. The pipe and resonator/muffler were custom fit and installed. The resonator tucked into the tunnel extremely well.

Thanks! I'm pretty sure you're right on the direction and it doesn't make any difference with these mufflers. Same same either way. I can't find anything that says inlet or outlet in the specs.

I went with the 6 to 1 ceramic coated headers from MSA and then just went to an exhaust shop and had Magnaflow with 2 1/2" pipe all the way back. Used this resonator and muffler. Very pleased with the way it turned out, both fit and sound! Not too loud and no drone while cruising. A question that I have is on the MSA catalog for their premium exhaust they talk about installing the muffler at an angle? Mine is in flat and I really like the way that it's tucked up out of site. I have zero exhaust smell in the cabin either with closed or open windows. Does anyone know why MSA says to angle the muffler?

Great video! Looks like with about any air filter (I have the single ITG) that we're limited to a 40 to 50mm stack. Would be nice to see this same test done with a 240Z.

Thanks! I'd guess Datsun came up with this height for best overall power/performance.

Hopefully someone will find all this info useable. The HJG46W-4 is the carburetor for the 71 Z. This carburetor along with all 240z / 260Z's is listed as having a bore of 1.811in (46mm), this must be at the throttle valve plate as I used my micrometer and measure 43mm at the carburetor inlet. It does appear from this diagram that the throat? is widened on the intake manifold side of the venture. None of this info really helps to answer any of my questions in this thread. Hopefully someone with the stock air cleaner can measure the height of the integrated velocity stacks and post in this thread. Who knew it would be this hard to figure out which stacks would be compatible with these SU's beyond what's available through MSA!

And now for 1 more question... What is the height of the velocity stack (referred to as Air horn) in the stock air filter back plate for the 4 screw carbs?

Next question... From all I've been able to glean from my friend google the Hitachi 3 and 4 screw round tops are HS style SU's. Looking at different listings for velocity stacks there are several HSn listings, HS2, HS4, HS6 and HS8! I can't find anywhere that lists what the HSn is for the Hitachi 4 screw round top SU's. Would any of you 240Z 4 screw SU experts know what the HS number is? Or if the Hitachi's even fit this HSn nomenclature?

Slightly unrelated... Last year when I did a full fuel system cleaning, tank lining and hose replacement with E85 rated lines I also asked ZTherapy about E85 fuel with their rebuilds and they told me that they ran a soak test a few years ago and saw no ill effects. I have no personal experience since I've run nothing but non-ethanol fuel since the fuel system refresh.

Do these fit the 4 screw roundtop SU's on an early '71 240Z? http://aptfast.com/showitem.aspx?id=102637&name=Ram Pipe Full Radius HS2 1.5" Tall&