w3wilkes

I think this is still used for the 1 remaining tank vent and the fuel filler line vent along with the line that goes to the Flow Guide Valve in the engine bay. Is this true @Carl Beck? My Fuel Guide valve still has the line from the vapor tank, is caped on the inlet from the air cleaner and just left open on the line to the crank case with the crank inlet plugged.

I won't take credit for the 100-120 amp, it was @wheee!. I went with the 60 amp from MSA on my 240Z.

Don't you still need the voltage regulator replacement adapter to go this route?

Another electrical upgrade that takes most of the headlight electrical load off the fuse box and multifunction headlight switch on the steering column is this headlight wiring mod. It also allows you to flexibility on headlight upgrades. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651

If you can't find an old 240Z voltage regulator that works or down the road you decide you need more power from your charging system you could go down this road that would allow you to go with a more modern electronic internally regulated alternator. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10b04/12-4067

There are about 1/4" thick flat rubber pads that go in these red outlined indents. I think with these pads and the rubber lining on the tank straps the tank is electrically isolated from the rest of the car. I believe that's why the fuel gauge sending unit has a ground wire. When you mount the tank back in the car be sure that you have the wires for the sending unit and fuel pump where you can get them and don't bury them between the tank and body of the car or you'll have to lower the tank again. Ask me how I know this? Sure wish I'd known that I could've eliminated all those vents! Oh well...

I used Purple Power a couple of years ago https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O Spray on, let sit for a few minutes and then hit it with a power washer. then used a small brass brush on the valve cover, intake and balance tube. The prior (original) owner kept it pretty clean. After I bought the car in 1991 we did full body and paint in 1992. It is a color change. We pulled just about everything but the engine from the engine bay, wrapped the engine in paper and shot the engine bay door and hatch jambs. Here's an old picture taken while we were putting stuff back in the engine bay. You can see that the engine was kept pretty clean all along. The windshield was pulled before the exterior was sprayed. It got parked in 2002 with a carb issue and with other priorities the car ended up sitting in the garage for 14 years. Fast forward to late 2016 the wife said... You need to do something with the Z. Spring, summer and into fall of 2017 was spent getting it running again with several upgrades. Many new items, air filter, radiator and electric fans, silicone radiator hoses, heater hoses (boy was that fun) ZTherapy rebuilt carbs, replaced frozen rear wheel cylinders, cap and rotor (did the electronic zx distributor swap back in early 2002), plug wires, all new rubber for fuel lines, tank dropped cleaned and lined, headers, full 2.5" exhaust w/Magnaflow resonator and muffler, clutch master and slave cylinder, 60 amp alternator internally regulated conversion, headlight relay conversion, headlights and all exterior map glove box and dome bulbs changed to LED, electric fuel pump, new A/C compressor (A/C still needs to be finished), new seats from a '77 Z so I could have the seat tilt lever with new foam and leather, shift and E-brake boots leather, new wheels and tires. Here's the air filter https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3023

Where do those heater hoses go? I've never seen that before. Or don't you have a heater and those are A/C?

Just checked the K&N web site and they say the fittings on the pump I used from MSA is 5/16" so I may have used 5/16's and 3/8" for supply and return respectively. At any rate, the Gates hose from O'Reilly's was cheap. I used this pump https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3078 It's a K&N 81-402. Here's how I mounted it

I went the rubber route and I think I used 3/8" on supply side and 1/4" on return, carbs and float vents. Same sizes at the tank. All Gates brand E85 rated from O'Reilly's and they fit just fine. Sorry I can't look, the car is 300+ miles away and I won't be there until the end of April.

Wonder if anything here can be repurposed? ? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+pipe+screens&hvadid=241929059160&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029961&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3326462611205813048&hvtargid=kwd-19245041717&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_48yir4no39_e

Looks more like a guest star on one of the original Star Trek episodes.

A couple of years ago when I did my tank I used this stuff and it has held up nicely. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-5200-Standard-Sealer/dp/B00DMIDUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1531949798&sr=8-2&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer

It's also a good idea to replace all the rubber fuel lines from the tank to the carbs.

Once you get the drums off if you decide you need to replace the wheel cylinders you might find this thread of help. The wheel cylinders for that car are very expensive, but can be replaced with the much cheaper ones on the slightly later cars.

Computerized record keeping, surely you jest... I don't recall seeing terminals back in the 70's, but did see fiche readers at the dealer for parts catalogs I bought my 73 from. Even credit card receipts back in the day were done using a carbon paper form on a flatbed card imprinter. https://www.amazon.com/Data-Systems-Manual-Imprinter-515-101-002/dp/B008UQ81S4 I think the original copy was then sent to a credit card processing facility that used an OCR (Optical character reader) to input the form on a mainframe computer.

Any chance you could register your car in another state?

It seems that if CA is doing this sort of thing that companies like Magnaflow, Flowmaster, etc are aware of this and would have mufflers that will meet these standards. On another note I wonder how many palms Harley Davidson greased to have motorcycles exempted??

I know, I have an early car now. Apparently the OP's car also doesn't share the same key for all locks either. To tell the truth, I don't lock my car. I figure whatever gets stolen from inside my car is cheaper than trying to find a replacement for a broken window. About the only place it gets parked outside my garage is at car shows or fun runs. My 73 240Z had one key for all locks.

Can this be done on a series 1 car where the ignition key has teeth on the both edges, but the door, hatch and glovebox key has teeth on only one edge?

I went with these https://www.wescoperformance.com/3pt-roadster-seatbelt-bucket-help.html with the retractor mounted in the old top belt bolt hole and the retractor inertia lock works fine.

I have dealer experience from back in the day with my 73 240Z. Bought in July 1973 in SLC, UT. It was fine that summer. Over the winter I drove a bunch to both Denver and Albuquerque multiple times. Seems like the next summer is when I had my first vapor lock, more like a loss of power, like 25 to 30 percent, very noticeable but it still ran. I could always start it after being parked, but it would take some cranking. Took it in multiple times. They put on the fuel rail insulation, that didn't really help. They added the electric fuel pump, helped a little. On hot days on the way home from work I'd pop the hood latch like mentioned before. It would help some, always got me home. They fiddled with the flat tops a bunch, but never hinted that the carbs sould be swapped for round tops. It was pretty much like that the rest of the ~20 years I drove it. Other than the really hot days in July and August the flat tops were fine for over 100,000 miles. Wilkes

I think the front bumper is bent on the passenger side. It isn't straight with the grill bars. Gaps on the hood don't match. Drivers side fender and headlight bucket appear to be pushed in towards the front, might just need adjustment.

Found it interesting that the 73 description says the carbs are original. They may be original, but not for a 73. This one has round tops and the 73's had flat top carbs. And is it just me or is the front bumper crooked on the 73?

Those caps look like they're not as tall as the ones that came with my wheels. These caps fit over the dust caps just fine with no mod to the cap. I bought my wheels here; https://www.18racing.com/collections/rb/products/rota-rb-1570-4x114-3-4-73-gunmetal-with-polish-lip Maybe they will sell just the caps.