w3wilkes
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Everything posted by w3wilkes
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I just did all my fuel lines this year with Gates E85 rated hose. 1/4" fuel rail to carbs - maybe 2 1/2 feet 5/16" supply side to fuel rail & tank to steel line - about 6 feet 3/16" return line from rail to steel line & steel line to tank - about 5 feet These all seemed to fit perfectly. Needed to use a little more hose on the supply side because I also converted to an electric fuel pump.
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That billet hold down is available from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10a02/10-9022 but... They are currently back ordered. I've been waiting since Sept 4th, 2017 with no guess from MSA when it might be available.
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Those holes on the air cleaner housing were added by the dealer on my 73 240Z on one of my many trips to the dealer in attempting to correct the vapor locking problem. I wasn't aware that it became a factory standard for the 74 260Z. I notice in the pictures that the fuel lines are all wrapped. That was also done by the dealer on my 73 240Z for the same vapor locking issue. These and the dealer adding an electric fuel pump were all done attempting to correct the vapor locking issue. The vapor locking never did get completely corrected, I can remember many times pulling the hood release in hot summer days to get a little extra under hood venting when the temp gauge would start climbing and the motor would start to stumble.
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There's a condenser that comes out of the harness with the wires that connect to the alternator. That condenser is screwed into one of the screws that holds the old voltage regulator on the wheel well. The instructions say nothing about that condenser so I'm assuming it stays??
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The instructions for the dual 12" electric fan setup sold by MSA has the sensor installed in the lower hose. Has been working fine on my Z car.
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Rota RB's 15 x 7 +4 offset - 205 60 R15's. I think these come real close to stock tire height also.
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Just fixed my problem. The issue was the flange on the header for #1 cylinder was just a bit too tall. The top of the flange hit the edge of the water thermostat housing and wouldn't seat to the head. Didn't want to grind the header and go through the ceramic coating. Took off the thermostat housing and ground a little bit off the bottom edge lip. That same flange also interfered with the intake manifold where I had to slightly enlarge the bolt hole on the top of the intake manifold to avoid cross threading the bolt into the head. Here's a shot with the area circled in faint red where I had to grind the bottom of the thermostat housing.
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Interesting... The RetroSound speakers in the MSA speaker kick panels had no fitment issues at all in my early 71 car.
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The 240z front speaker kick panels are also available from MSA. They worked great in my 71 240z. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08c02/50-5358
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I did buy the later ones and they worked fine by just changing the bend in the line for the 90 degree inlet. I put a picture of the finished install over in the Wheels, Tires and Brakes thread referenced above.
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Got the early wheel cylinders changed over to the later version cylinders just fine. My buddy Dan changed a bend in the brake line and it still runs just fine around the front of the drum back plate. can't imagine paying ~$200 a piece for the early cylinders when the later version can be had for ~$40 a piece and work just fine!
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Here's what Motorsport has http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2895
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Thanks so much for the reply! The drums are off after a little torch work. When attempting to bleed the left rear I broke off the bleeder stem so I figured I'd be replacing the wheel cylinders. When I saw the price of the 71 vs 73 wheel cylinders and then compared them visually I hoped there was a way to make the swap! The 4X price of the early cylinder is ridiculous.
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Posted this over in Wheels, tire and brakes. Need help because I broke the bleeder off.
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I need to replace the rear wheel cylinders in my 71 240Z. The cylinders changed in the 72 - 73 time frame. The early wheel cylinders go for almost $200 where the later goes for less than $50. Has anybody used the later model in the early car? Here's a picture of the later model on the left and the early model on the right. The only difference I can see is the part where the bleeder valve stick through the back plate is taller and the soft brake line connection is 90 degrees vs angled in the early model.
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Both my 71 and 73 only had 1 speaker. I believe it was far bac left side.
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In Utah, all through the greater Salt Lake City area, they use a ton of salt in the winter. It took 20 years for my 1973 240z daily driver to rust to the point it probably was structurally impaired. My current 1971 240z hasn't seen a salted road since I got it in 1991 and very little from the original owner who had it in SoCal for most of its life before 1991.
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I know the drill... I have A/C too.
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Yes, I just replaced my heater core hoses a couple of weeks ago. More fun than laughing right out loud! Found in another thread that the key is to unscrew the valve from the side of the heater core, undo the little hose from the valve to the core and then completely remove the valve from the hose that goes through the firewall. This gets you "almost" decent access to the hose closest to the firewall. Then went in reverse. Still a pain in the butt. I also replaced that little reducer hose by the block heater hose and ordered a backup, I figure that little piece of hose with the 2 different size ends will be discontinued like some of the fuel tank vent hoses.
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Here's what Superbright has to say about the color. I used all bulbs that matched the color of the lens I put it behind and they turned out plenty bright. Read the item "Which Color LEDs Should I Use?" https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php I've done every bulb on the outside of my 240Z along with the map, dome and glovebox. I put all the info in this thread. I also did the electronic flasher for both emergency flashers and blinkers.
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I've done all my bulbs on the outside of my 240Z with LED along with dome, map and glovebox. Here's the post I put the bulb list in; The key to lights behind colored lenses for brightness is to get bulbs that are the same color as the lens you're putting it behind. For Headlights Had to use the anti-flicker harness to get the headlights to fire. With patience you can get the anti-flicker harness to fit in the stock headlight can with the LED H6024 bulb, I did.
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I haven't found any stereo install in my Z to be easy! The Retrosound this time or the Sony cassette I put in before. Very cramped behind the console. The Retrosound has a ton of cables - pre-amp outs 4 chans plus sub, 2 aux, 2 USB, microphone, antenna, then there's the 4 speakers if no power amp, switch lead if you have a power amp, both switched and always on power, ground and finally power antenna leads. Doing the rear bracket to brace the unit is a bugger. And lastly having to custom make the faceplate because Retrosound doesn't have 240Z faceplates anymore.
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Early fuel/gas cap and mounting ring differences
w3wilkes replied to zed2's topic in Open Discussions
My early 71 (mfg 12/70) has the chain and my 73 had the chain. -
Over in Fuel Injection it's mentioned that winter fuel is coming. Where I live we have some stations that sell non-ethanol blended gas that I use almost exclusively. This fuel will store much better than an ethanol blend because it doesn't attract moisture like ethanol and is way less corrosive on fuel system components. I guess this is just a reminder that winter is coming and there are a few months where I live that the 240 probably won't be driven. Do you guys drain the fuel system or fill it full and use a "fuel treatment" for winter storage.
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The rest of the story is I had to make my own faceplate. Retrosound said they only ever had the plate that came with my stereo. Michael Robbins is no longer with Retrosound so it seems that the 240 vs 260-280 different faceplate knowledge has been lost at Retrosound. They did send a .pdf of a 240 faceplate, the angles were correct, but the size was a little small. Here's how it worked out.
