w3wilkes

I thought it's the plastic domes/lenses in the gauges that are green. Didn't think it's the bulbs.

Thanks.

Thanks for finding that in the wiring diagram! Car has always been a manual tranny. Yes, the wire is green. I guess it was a good thing that my car is a MT so that wire was available for me to repurpose! With that wire being in the engine bay I guess the relay to the K.D. solenoid (if present) would be in the engine bay?

Did you use the white QasimLed's bulbs or the green ones?

As in my sig the car is a 1971, built 12/70 HLS30-17486

@HS30-H I found and used this wire for my electric fan controller. The harness had the "blue tape" (visible in the picture) which seems to be the Datsun factory method of identifying wires for some optional use. The wire is 12v switched power when the ignition is in run and had a female bullet connector. Do you know what the Datsun intended use for this was?

Ah, but does the heating make the needle go up... or down?

Since you've eliminated the starter and it starts fine from using the "hotwire" method. We know that when you turn the key to start you hear a click in the passenger footwell it sounds like it's not between the key switch and the footwell. I'm wondering if it's a bad relay in the footwell?

You mention that you now have an internally regulated alternator. Has the voltage regulator been replaced with one of these? Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - Alternator Upgrade Adaptor, 70-72 240Z

Who did you drive for? I had a good friend who drove for Amtrack before he retired a few years back.

I did the leather from Interior Innovations back in 2018 and would do it again. I also did the matching leather e-brake and shifter boots.

Can't find the member map. This has come up before and it seems like @Mike fixed it, but now it's gone again (or I just can't find it).

Also take a look at ZTherapy's master price list for part ZT128.

The new shop helper is pretty cute! The fun of new bling... I had interference on my MSA 6 2 1 ceramic headers with my thermostat housing causing an exhaust leak. A little work with a grinder on the thermostat housing corrected the problem.

The spring looks like it came out of some garden hand clippers, I have some clippers with springs like that, it pushes them open.

And don't get me wrong, I always thought it was a great color!

In some of the shots it looks like the British Racing Green that was a popular color on the TR4 through TR6's. Didn't pay much attention to the TR8, did it come in the BRG color?

Just for grins. I'm pretty sure that my old stick cars - 2 Maxima's, Stanza, Jeep Loredo, 1st 240Z, Chevy Vega all parked between 3 & 4.

My '71 4 speed parks between 3 & 4 and like CO says, the push from R is much stronger, definitely a spring. It like "just glides" to there from between 1 & 2 with not really a discernable spring type push to the right.

But that exhaust!!! A thing of beauty! So sorry about the brake fluid disaster.

Brigham City, Utah, Sept. 7, 2024 - 1,070 cars. I found I had relatives/in-laws with Z's, we were the only Z's except for a 370Z that was with the tuner cars. The ZX is an original turbo car and the 280Z has a LS under the hood. Different generations, we had a blast and I'm old enough to be their grampa. Funny, one kid about 12-13 walks by and says "look, Jaguars".

It sounds like he already had an electric pump so just put me on ignore. Sorry.

I would have thought if those field modifications had been made the car would already have an electric pump.

I would look around the forward console area for something in the wiring harness wrapped in blue tape. In my 71 240Z it was in the wiring bundle on the right side of the console going to under the dash. I've seen pictures on these boards where it's more like around the left side of the radio body. If you find it you should be able to jumper across the plug, like take a piece of wire and put one end in one side of the plug and the other end of the wire in the other side of the plug. This should give power to the leads that are dangling somewhere near the fuel tank when the key is in the run position. I would maybe recommend an inertia switch in that jumper loop to cut power in the event of a crash and the driver is incapacitated.