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w3wilkes

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Everything posted by w3wilkes

  1. To be clear, the original question is hypothetical. I had always read that people would re-work the lines to go to the marked F and R connections. Did they do this just because that's the way it's marked on the M/C? What made me think of this is the zx distributor swap when we were told that you had to have the E12-80 matchbox on the distributor. The E12-92 actually works exactly like the E12-80 if you only use the top connections. I've been running a E12-92 for years and it works perfectly with just the top connection in use. EDIT: How many rear disc conversions have been done and the original M/C used? If there's a big difference in the F and R, wouldn't this mess up the rear brakes?
  2. Was this such a dumb question that nobody will respond? @Zed Head @Captain Obvious
  3. Thanks for setting me straight. I did go back and read through the comments and found the reference to the welded up hatch vents. On my own map light hood... I cannot be positive that the original owner might have had the map light replaced sometime in the 19 years he had the car before I bought it from him back in 1990.
  4. Who was it the other day that asked about blocking the hatch vents in a series 1? The pillar emblems on this car are clearly series 1 but the hatch is series 2 (no vents at all). By the VIN this car is 24 cars newer than mine. My hatch has the vents and this car doesn't so I got one of the last hatches with vents (supports the comment someone made about "these cars leak enough that it shouldn't affect the ability of the flow through ventilation to still work"). This car has the hood on the map light and so does my car. These are just minor things showing Datsun transitioning series 2 parts into the production line.
  5. Assumption: early car and a late M/C... The external difference from early to late is the size of reservoirs that are swapped. What's the internal difference? What would happen if you swapped the late reservoirs to the early reservoir positions and hooked the rear brake line to the front M/C position and the front brake line to the rear M/C position?
  6. We could go to what Mariners use... Port = Left side of car when looking to the front of the car from the rear and Starboard = Right side of car when looking towards the front of the car from the rear. 🤪
  7. I think you can just leave it as is. When the dealership did the electric pump on my '73 they just left the mech pump in line. When I did the electric pump on my current car, I removed the mech pump.
  8. The 240Z's all came with wiring for an electric pump in the wiring harness. The wires at the tank should be just hanging out of the same bundle as the fuel tank level sending unit. There's a plug up either under the console as shown in the picture in this thread I've linked or in a wire bundle wrapped in a naugahyde boot just in front of the console in the passenger foot well. My conversion to an electric fuel pump starts at post 52 in the linked thread. The plug should be wrapped in blue tape. A wire bridge on that plug will power the circuit for the fuel pump when the ignition is in the Run/Start positions. You should use something like an inertia switch in that jumper loop to cut power to the circuit in the event of a crash.
  9. I'll bet one of your kids could show you how. 😁
  10. I would do the headlight relays even if you go LED headlights. I used these LED headlamps and if you don't do the relays you'll have to use the anti-flicker module which is a pain to get them in the bucket with the headlamp. My first post in this thread shows the stock wiring and how it's changed with the headlight relays. The relays make it so the ground and power leads flow the electrons in the proper direction for the LED bulbs.
  11. And how about this one.. Here in Utah the prominant religion discourages any "Fun activities" on Sunday so I'm expecting the little goblins to show up tonight.
  12. The intro to this always reminded me of Halloween..
  13. Wow, that's the smallest start I've seen for a build! And it appears to be rust free! 🤣
  14. Dumb thing to try if you think it might be a bad starter... Pull the starter and start the car on compression. Take it for a short spin and see if the noise is still present.
  15. Don't know which wheel cylinders you have? If you have the early wheel cylinders ($290.00) you can replace them with the later model ($50.00) with a little rebending of the hard line on the back plate. Early / Late Wheel Cylinders? - Wheels & Brakes - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com) Motorsport! Drums & Wheel Cylinders - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
  16. Even though the early cars had the spring and adjustable rod on the clutch slave it may not be the case here. With @texasz saying he has a five speed this probably is a tranny swap and doesn't have the tab on the bell housing for the spring to attach to. My question is what slave is currently on the clutch?
  17. Is one of these kits what you're looking for? Motorsport! Head/Manifold Hardware Kits - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
  18. A lot of -1 gen Supra's, 1 240Z, man Mustangs are popular and too bad about the dumb guy that crashed his Mercedes, the guy in the Z3 was lucky. Nice to see a few low riders and of course I'd notice the 5 window GMC pickup!
  19. Here's a pretty good blow by blow of going to an internally regulated alternator if the zstore adapter is still not in stock. 240z alternator upgrade (instructions w/ pictures) - Electrical - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)
  20. Big congrats on the move! Now about retirement... Been there since 2009 and still love it. Still have a boss, but she treats me pretty good most of the time.
  21. I would have thought from your experience that you would never drive your car without the battery being secured! 😁
  22. I thought beer was a whole food! Water, grains, corn sugar, hops & a little yeast to convert the sugar.
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