w3wilkes
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Everything posted by w3wilkes
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I have this exact same issue. ZX dizzy wired just like this. Originally the tach worked fine then one day about 20 years ago I was driving and the tach slowly went all the way pegged. Shut the car off and restarted. Ever since then it's been "lazy" as described here by KC and Ollie. Idle shows about 1,000 RPM and it tends to not go above about 3,500 RPM. Car runs great and I just shift by ear.
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I don't know... Did the 2000 or 1600 Roadster have twin Hitachi's or just a single?
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Since the E46 is raised lettering it was cast into the tube. This one is slightly different than the one pictured in the ZTherapy master catalog, but I guess they could change things if they want. I know the ZTherapy picture hasn't changed since at least 2017 when I did my ZTherapy carbs.
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Here's a picture of an E46 balance tube. https://www.ebay.ph/itm/314808064625 I believe the non-smog is the E41. So yes, I believe you have the ZTherapy modded tube, but who cares, it looks great!
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Just a thought on ZTherpy vs stock. If it's stock it would have a model # in the casting like the block, head, intake manifold etc.
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Damn that looks nice, really cleans up the look!
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I remember a friend from Minnesota would come out in the winter to work and ski at Alta Utah. He had an older version of this Saab, maybe 66 or 67, that was a 2 cycle motor!
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I thought the function of the valve was to stop the water flow once the engine was up to temp. If the valve is removed then hot water will flow through the intake manifold, might contribute to vapor locking (percolation). I've seen posts somewhere in these forums about removing that water circuit completely from the Y connection on the spark plug side of the engine and plugging the thermostat connection. And also plugging the intake manifold flowthrough passages.
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On my 12/70 built car the top row of the intake manifold, which includes the fuel rail, is all bolts. The common for the exhaust / intake are all studs. I've seen some that say they are all studs, but that's not the way they are on my car. Here's a bad picture but you can see most of the top row of bolts and the one stud in the center on the header. Just make sure you save those special washers that go on the common studs clamping the intake and exhaust, if you do headers you will still need those washers.
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Can't wait to see it with the euro balance tube. Did you get the semi polished one that ZTherapy sells or did you find a real one?
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As Ken says, those ball joints pop off and push back on pretty easily. I think they may be nylon. Yes, that lever to open the throttle a little in deceleration does as you say "just flap in the breeze".
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You don't need to go with the euro balance tube initially, but it is something I'll probably do down the road too. I've removed all the air pump smog stuff currently and kept the PCV and valve cover vent hose. I did go with an ITG air filter and drilled the back plate of the air filter for the carb vent hoses (I T'd the carb float bowl vent hoses so I only had to have one hole for the float vents in the back plate of the air filter) and also did AN fittings for the valve cover hose. Here's a picture of what I did.
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I'm with @KenFirch I did the headers. I went the 6to1 ceramic coated headers from MSA with 2.5inch exhaust all the way back. The air pump location is a great place to mount a sanden A/C compressor. EDIT: For the exhaust I just went to a local shop and had them build it. I got a Magnaflow resonator and Magnaflow Muffler and am quite please with the result. No problem with ground clearance, it's tucked in nicely.
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I had never seen a clear lens on the engine room light. Mine is more like frosted on my 12/71 car and it was also frosted on my 73 car.
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Still struggling with car at idle after 8 years
w3wilkes replied to Johnny wick's topic in Open Discussions
Do what Charles @Patcon says... Replace the ignition system once you've verified the choke isn't stuck. -
Probably some possible future use or different market scenario. Who knows what the intent of the plugged hole just to the left of my vacuum hole is for. Like the wiring harness including the hookups for electric fuel pump which made it easy for me to convert to electric fuel pump on my 12/70 car.
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By 12/70 Datsun had swapped the location of the vacuum hose to the most right top hole in the balance tube and plugged the horizontal hole. One less bend in the hose. It does look like the fitting for the hose did not change and just looks like PCV, but it's not.
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Unpacked my ZTherapy carbs in 2017 and bolted them up directly. Didn't touch them then and haven't touched them since. I have run ethanol free gas ever since I had the carbs done and with the "new" carbs I had to do the entire fuel system front to back at the same time.
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But wait, I did this conversion back in 2017 and documented here;
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And which one of these 3 almost duplicate threads are you going to stick to??
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Just plug this into your Google search bar and add what you want to search for after a space at the end; site classiczcars.com I find I get better results with this search than the forum search box.
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@Patcon When I went LED bulbs for all my exterior bulbs I matched the bulb color to the lens covers. From what I've read the lens will filter all colors from the white LED's except for the color of the lens causing the light to be dimmer than it could be. Don't know if this is an old wives tale, but just sayin.
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As my sig says 12/70 build date, you can check Carl Beck's site registry for my vin if you want it.
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Here's a shot of the passenger seat with the "L" bracket installed on the receiver belt. As you can see I did use the plastic sleeve to keep the receiver from falling to the floor.
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I went through my receipts and found that I did order the hardware kit 9 days after I ordered the Roadster seat belts. I had to use the "L" bracket to fasten the seatbelt receiver part of the Roadster belt set to the floor next to the tunnel on my 204Z. Sorry that my answer is "oh contrare" to the other replies.
