w3wilkes

I replaced all my fuel hose with this stuff back in 2017, no cracks or leaks yet. I will mention that since I cleaned and lined my tank, converted to electric fuel pump and replaced all my rubber fuel lines with the Gates E85 rated hose back in 2017 I've run nothing but ethanol free gas in my 240z. I went with the E85 rated hose just in case I have no choice in the future on running gas with ethanol. I also contacted ZTherapy regarding their carb rebuilding and E85, Bruce said they ran soak tests a number of years ago and saw no ill effects. Steve did jump in and say that if you run alcohol you will likely have to richen your mixture.

Check the auto parts store for E85 rated fuel hose. You don't need the EFI hose for your low pressure carb system. 5/16 supply side, 3/16 return. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/barricade-3759/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-barricade-5-16-inch-i-d-hnbr-rubber-hose/27335/4349947?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=4 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/safety-stripe-ii-3753/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/bulk-hose-16664/bulk-hose---fuel-hose-18164/0a74c36f4425/gates-safety-stripe-ii-3-16-inch-i-d-nitrile-rubber-nbr-3-16-inch-hose/27098/4348885?q=gates+e85+hose&pos=14 You need to figure out what lengths you need.

As I said earlier in this thread... "If this is the return line from the fuel rail I used 3/16 as I stated in the prior post. The supply side (where the stock fuel filter is) is 5/16" It's 5/16 supply and 3/16 return back at the tank also.

I have my original spare that still has the paint on the tread, but it only has some of the original air since it did get low and had to be topped up.

I found that the front of the car feels like it starts to float above about 90MPH. I now have the front air dam and the car feels much better at high speed. I don't have a rear spoiler, but if I got one I could swear I've seen wings like this on a S30 car.

Just put your car info in your Sig, and it'll always be there.

In the 1st picture other than knowing it's a right hand drive what's to say it's a series 1 car? That fan in the 2nd picture (a fun picture I might add) doesn't appear to have a clutch like the stock nylon fan and fewer blades. This motor looks like it's "going to the races".

The picture of the motor being put in from the bottom must not be a series 1 car as the fan isn't metal.

There are reproductions; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Metal-Reproduction-Headlight-Covers/303311991232?hash=item469ecdb1c0:g:6vgAAOSwAx9cUkn8 Sticks in my mind that these are from the same folks that do the Vintage Dashes, but not sure. From time to time I've seen originals, but the cheapest I remember was $1,200.00 USD Edit: A little cheaper here; https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/reproduction-jdm-headlight-cover-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z

I run the Rota RB's 15" 7" wide & +4 offset, no spacer with 205 60R15's which come out to pretty close to factory height so speedo also is fairly accurate.

Looks like I've got some work to do this winter! And a little something extra! ?

Of course opinions are like a$$ holes, everybody has one. My opinion is to remove it. I believe a 71, even in California, can be licensed as a collector vehicle without original pollution equipment. If you do something like the MSA ceramic coated headers you'll be removing all the exhaust air injection stuff. Someone else will need to jump in for the carb side of things, but there's stuff that comes off there too. If you intend to do a full original restore like @motorman7 did on @jayhawk's 73 240 (an awesome gorgeous build) then you'll want it all intact.

Went to cruise night Wednesday. Probably my last for this year. They have a Halloween "Trunk or Treat", but it's turned into a zoo! Always fun to show up with the non-Detroit car. First time all year another Datsun showed up. This is a right hand drive JDM car with Fairlady badging.

@tzagi1 The Z in question is in Ivins (St George area). I know this is almost a 2 hour drive, but I told @SGarrett to give you a shot. The other person in the area is @Newzowner who is in Dixie Downs, but he hasn't posted in a couple years.

Jaw dropping fantastic! It's been almost 30 years since I had my 73, but I don't remember this smallish tube that I've marked in red. What is it?

Geez!!! I got my leather seat covers from these folks and am quite pleased with the way they turned out. I didn't see these when I got my seat covers, now I have to start saving too! Here's my seat thread;

This looks exactly like what you want.

From the video it looks like you made it above tree line which I think is about 11,700 feet on Pikes Peak. When you walked around at the stop place could you feel the altitude? Being from Florida I would think you'd feel it.

You can also use an inertia switch for electric fuel pump cutoff.

I went with a RetroSound, looks pretty stock, but I can listen to any choice of album off my phone via bluetooth. Beach Boys, Beatles, CSN, Airplane, Big Brother, all the stuff I grew up with.

Super "trick" and very much eye candy! Looks amazing.

Thanks for the 2¢. So my thinking was backwards (not that unusual). The urethane bushing kit will be a little less harsh than the T/C kit. From other reading it sounds like a little less tightening with the urethane bushings will also slightly reduce the harshness of urethane.

My thought on the T/C tension rod kit with the rubber bushings is it would be somewhat less harsh than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Maybe somewhere between stock and the urethane kit?? Sorry for blaming you, I've now taken ownership of my deeds, so you're off the hook!

My wife says it's your fault. I also pulled the trigger on the Koni's along with bushings, insulators. The old "while I'm in there...". MSA is checking one thing and will call in the AM. After reading through this thread I'm thinking it sounds better than the urethane tension rod bushing kit. Thoughts either way?? This will be something to do this winter.

I think those spacers are to bring the rear of the car up to match the front. The front has bearings where those spacers would be to allow the steering to work.