w3wilkes

Of the American muscle redo's my vote goes for Challenger as the best done. As for the Japanese... Toyota has decided to give it a try with the new 2020 Supra which isn't too bad (even though it's really a BMW), I can see the "10 second car" from Fast and Furious. EDIT: I fully agree with @grannyknot above! I think Nissan would make a killing going back to the original Z roots.

Those are definite "ratted out"! Right off the top of my head I can count at least 14 things I've "upgraded", except for the front air dam the body is stock and my motor is a numbers match. I think I don't fall in the ratted category.

Just wondering where you draw the line for ratted out?

On the question of using LED's for the license plate, I've done it. These bulbs from Superbrite are a direct fit. 2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate)

I knew I made a good decision on July 20, 1973 when I bought my 73 240Z brand new off the showroom floor! That 1973 car was replaced in 1991 with a 71 240Z. I've been a very happy 240Z owner now for 46 years straight. My good decision feeling is based on the fun of driving the car!

I have a hot rod buddy that lives by this saying... "If it don't go, chrome it".

Looks like it would be right up @ConVerTT's alley! ?

The green and black at the tank are for a optional fuel pump. The green wire doesn't have power by default. There is a connector in the harness up at the front of the console that is connected to nothing and taped with blue tape in the harness. The connector has 2 green wires. You can just jumper this connector and it sends power to the green wire at the tank. It is on the key and powered with the key in the On position. The black wire is the Neg (ground) for the pump. If you do a electric fuel pump you should put an inertia switch in the loop to jumper the connector so power to the pump will be cut in a crash. The dealer did put in an electric pump in my 73 after my complaining about vapor locking. Don't know about how the wiring was done up at the console, but there were a couple more relay type brass enclosures put on the body side of the passenger footwell kick panel. On my 71 I just jumpered the connector with an inertia switch in the loop.

Got my Rota's here in May 2017. https://www.18racing.com/collections/

Are you saying it's more of an aesthetics thing? My car has had no issues with anything in the all original drive line for over 100,000 miles that I'm aware of (build 12/70).

That's right, just a jumper across that blank fuel pump plug in the loom sends power to the pump. Any safety device like your oil pressure detector or if you use a inertia switch, they just go in that jumper loop. An inertia switch would allow the pump to run when the key is on without oil pressure being detected. My own preference is the inertia switch in the jumper loop so the pump runs anytime the key is in the on position. This allows me to pressurize the fuel system before I actually start the car and will cut power to the pump in the event of a crash. The oil pump detector method requires a circuit that will run the pump with the switch in the start position without oil pressure. This thread covers the circuit you need for the oil pump switch method.

Was it you that said you're also going with a RetroSound radio head unit? If so, it does have a couple of USB dongles. I asked RetroSound if those will charge and they said no so of course I had to test. They seem to charge my Moto X4 just fine. I use Bluetooth from the phone to the radio head unit to play music from the PowerAmp app on my phone. The phone function of the RetroSound also works great. I just clipped the mic to the dashboard bottom on the driver side just above the console. Wilkes Here's my cruisin' song list ?

I used a different set from Wesco because it can be installed in the series 1 car without having to drill additional holes. I didn't have to remove the console for the inner buckle strap install. I used the stock attachment point that is accessible without removing the console. I doubt the MSA belt would require console removal, from the picture it looks like the inner belt piece uses the stock mounting point too. https://www.wescoperformance.com/roadster-seat-belt-eb.html

I went with these in the stock buckets, even was able to fit the anti-flicker block in the stock buckets too. https://www.eaglelights.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015 Had to use the anti-flicker block with the stock headlight wiring. I've just swapped to the MSA headlight relay upgrade and will see if I can remove the anti-flicker blocks. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4651 I think the headlight relay kit changes the wiring so that the center post is ground rather than the 2 outer posts which is stock. I 1st tried without the blocks and the lights wouldn't come on at all. I think the blocks changed the polarity so I had light. When I get around to trying again without the blocks I'll let you know if my thinking is correct. Here's my initial thoughts when I first installed the lights.

Currently running Bridgestone Ecopia 205/60 R15 https://www.bridgestonetire.com/tire/ecopia-ep422-plus/205-60r15 Next time I think I'll go BFG T/A's black wall out (if I was talking a '72 Chevelle 396 SS it would be white letters out) https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-radial-t-a/p/38370

I can remember paying 27¢ when I was in high school. I could cruise the whole weekend for less than $5.

I like that steering wheel. All the 240Z wheels I've seen before have different spokes than what you have. The series 1 cars don't have the holes punched out, they're just indented where the holes on this wheel are.

I really like what you did with the graphics! Subtle, not too flashy, nice touch.

Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

Thanks, this is helpful.

@KONI Lee Do you know how many turns from full soft to full hard?

Nice score on the hatch window louvers! I'd like to get some of those.

This looks great, waiting to see how the defroster and vent ducts fit. I'm guessing there's plenty of room for your radio or stereo?

Ooooh, go for the Ranchero next to it also.

Fancy!