w3wilkes

Are those the tubes that poke into the exhaust ports through the exhaust manifold into the head? If so, have you removed the air pump? If these are what I think they are and you (or PO) removed the air pump, you need to block the holes. Otherwise you'll have outside air going directly into the exhaust ports in the head. I would think this would be a major exhaust leak that would also be prone to backfires.

This one looks like it has had the Lucas electric kit installed ;-) http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

Just get the 60 Amp and be done with it.

On my early 71 my rear wheel cylinders were frozen which would cause the light to turn on when the brakes were applied. As soon as the pedal was released the light would go out. After replacing the wheel cylinders and bleeding the whole system the light now only comes on when the parking brake is applied. My FSM purchased with the car in 71 shows the springs in the sensor switch just like the BR-14 illustration posted earlier in this thread with the same warning about NOT servicing the unit. So I think all the Z cars have self centering sensor switches.

Looks like there's more ethanol free gas around St George than I thought. These list all Utah and Nevada stations by town. You've got choices in St George, Hurricane, Washington. Also Kanab, Cedar city and Mesquite. https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=UT https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NV

@newzowner Just a note on gas for your Z... The Maverick at the Washington Parkway exit (Exit 13) sells non-ethanol fuel. I'd recommend you run that in your Z. The non-ethanol fuel stores way better than fuel with an ethanol mix, won't attract water the way ethanol mixed fuel does and is less corrosive on the fuel line rubber sections.

Yes, I run the return line. I noticed when I replaced all the rubber fuel lines that the exit of the fuel rail on the motor is restricted which I'm guessing is to give some back pressure in the system.

This piece was really cool https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6832-Clamp-On-Auto-Refill-Kit/dp/B000K1KPK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511494945&sr=8-1&keywords=mva6832 Take off the reservoir cap, drop this in and adjust the tube to the reservoir full indicator line and open the valve. This keeps the reservoir full while you bleed the line down at the brake or clutch slave cylinder using your vacuum of choice. No problem bleeding both rear or front brakes without having to stop to check and make sure the reservoir has plenty of fluid to keep going.

My buddy lent me his bleeding tool. This thing makes bleeding clutch and brakes a simple 1 person job with no need to touch the clutch or brake pedal. You do need a compressor to use this. https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Vacuum-Brake-Bleed-Kit-P30449.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgNrQBRC0ARIsAE-m-1w9GBS_eXX5JTgHEp0bStUHgJmPeusMvLWvUBowSdqJJ-zpbIXog3kaAmFVEALw_wcB

If I missed a prior reply, sorry. On the paint question about single stage or base / clear. Here's my thought (I know this subject has many sides). Solid color - single stage / metallic - has to be base clear.

I'd agree with this. It is kind of fun to note all the small changes that were phased in though. Porsche did the same thing on their 930 series I cars from 75 through 77. Within that series they changed from 15 to 16 inch wheels and went to power assisted brakes in the last year of the series I cars. Series II in 78 added the intercooler, went to a 3.2 liter motor and changed the whale tail to house the intercooler. This was in a much smaller group, I think there were just under 2,900 cars in the 3 years of the first series 930's.

Rear brake wheel cylinders. Series I costs ~$200 US where Series II can be had for <$40 US. Guess which way I went on my Series I? An interesting note on my Series I car. It came with the Series II map light bezel (the one with the hood).

MY FSM with no designation other than "Model L20A, L24 Series Engine" that came with the car from the PO on page EF-4 says "1600 cc (3.71 US pts)". So Nissan must have introduced a mistake sometime after my manual and then corrected it in the 73 manual.

@NewZowner - Welcome to the group! Not many of us in Utah. I do get down in your neck of the woods during the winter. Some of the best golf in the country is in the greater St George, Hurricane and Mesquite area! Sorry I can't help with your carbs, I got refurbs from ZTherapy for my early 71 this year and the car seems to run just fine without even touching them. Before I had my mechanical problems back in 2003 when I parked my Z for 14 years I did enter my 71 in the Huricane Easter show in 92 and 93. Was subjected to a lot of "rice" comments, but ended up getting a 3rd place trophy in sport cars in 93. I'll be waiting to hear your tales of taking your Z through the Virgin River Gorge. That seems like it would be great fun!

@SteveJI went electric because I wanted to. Inertia switch. I like the idea of trying the gauge to see what I'm dealing with.

Didn't the rear window defroster lines change from vertical to horizontal too?

I've installed the K&N electric pump from MSA with my ZTherapy refurbed Hitachi SU's. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17a09/11-3078 The MSA write-up for this pump says "no regulator required". The car runs fine without a regulator and I see no signs of the carbs dumping fuel. I've also heard that the stock mechanical pump on a 240Z puts out 5 - 6 PSI which is pretty much in range with the K&N pump. Any thoughts on whether I should throw money at a regulator and why? If I'm convinced I need a regulator I'm guessing this regulator / gauge combo would work okay? http://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-Low-Pressure-Carb-Only-p/1035056.htm

I got one of these last year when I broke mine trying to remove it. Got it from; Richard Lowell CHAOS Racing & Datsun Speed 5652 East University Drive Mesa, AZ 85205 Phone: 480-892-9290 Email: 510doc@cox.net http://desertdatsuns.com You could try reaching out and see if he has more.

My early 71 (12/70 build date) has bolts on the top row of intake manifold.

Didn't notice any spark when I hooked the battery up after the alternator upgrade which was done a couple of months after the electric fuel pump. I did drive the car after the alternator upgrade and then due to weather I left the car sit for about a week. The car started and ran fine. From Zed's description if I had a problem the battery wouldn't have lasted a week of sitting in the garage. As far as I know the after market radio and the clock are the only battery draws when the car is just sitting.

Background... I've done the alternator upgrade using the MSA alternator / voltage regulator adapter and it works just great. I've also removed the mechanical fuel pump and installed an electric pump back at the tank using the pre-wired circuit and this also works great. In another thread regarding the alternator upgrade on a 73 240 there's a caution about cars with electric fuel pumps that can cause battery drain without an additional change. The question... I jumpered the connector with an inertia switch in the console for crash protection. The connector in the console area gives power when jumpered to the pre-wired electric fuel pump circuit that's in all the 240Z cars. Do the early cars (pre 73) have the relay referred to in the other referenced thread? With what I've done with both the electric fuel pump and alternator upgrade is there a battery drain issue or am I good to go?

Did you buy a kit or did you just build the stuff from scratch? I bought the kit from MSA. They have just the regulator replacement adapter plug or you can get it with the 60 amp zx alternator. I got both the alternator and the regulator replacement adapter and it was truly "Plug-n-Play". http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic10b04

I like my Wesco Roadster seatbelts which gives 3 point retractable and doesn't require any new fitting holes from the original belts. Skip the roadster belt hardware mounting kit and buy just 1 of these hardware kits instead. https://www.wescoperformance.com/2poresebehak.html The 2 "L" brackets are what you want for the buckle side of each belt. The rest of the mounting hardware can be re-used from the old belts.

Nice car and nice color. Your tail lights look like a Magnus Walker mod. Here's mine the day I got it home.

Funny about Porsche's. I bought my 1st 240Z back in July 1973 brand new. It was my daily driver which I drove until it rusted to death in 1991. I then found and bought a early 1971 240Z to replace the 73 since I still loved the car. The early 71 had a little rust and I didn't like the color so it went to the body shop to have the rust cut out, new metal welded in and then a repaint to 905 red. In 2000 I had a wild hair and bought a 1977 1st series 930. WOW! That car was so fast. The 1971 240Z had a mechanical issue in 2003 so it got parked. It then started to seem like every time I took the Porsche out to play it cost $1,000. Alternator failed, wiring issues, failed rear wheel bearing and then... head studs broke on 1 bank of 3 cylinders. Man, that rebuild was expensive! At least the car appreciated enough to cover the engine rebuild when I finally sold it in 2015. I've now got the 71 240Z running again and find that I really don't miss the Porsche. Still have some work to do on the Z, but it's now able to be driven and I still love the car!