w3wilkes

Thanks, I think I'll put an inertia switch on the MP2T jumper.

Does anybody know off the top of their head if the connector on a 240Z for the electric fuel pump jumper is an MP2TN connector found at http://vintageconnections.com/ShoppingCart.htm If it is I can avoid cutting it off and installing my own connector. EDIT: Probably should have put this in Electrical

Ya now what... I just let them go faster if they want. I will make it as easy as possible for them to pass. This makes it much more safe for me to go 6 over. Sometimes you actually get the enjoyment of passing them because they're pulled over for speeding. I like to call them "Sweepers".

What about hoses? There are some fuel tank vent hoses that are no longer available.

At least with the bulbs I got from my local NAPA store for the tail / brake / front marker they're just fine. Plenty bright and the difference from tail to brake / blinker is every bit as good as the incandescent bulbs were. I had heard that also, but I'm very pleased. Wonder if the complaints were from people that had put white bulbs behind a colored lens? I used the colored bulbs that were the same color as the lens I put it behind. https://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb_notes.php Read the "Which color LED should I use"

That is correct. These bulbs are basically like a sealed beam bulb (same size as a H6024 sealed beam standard 7" bulb), the actual light source is integrated. It's not like a 7" round housing that you then put your LED bulb in that then sticks out the back another few inches. It's like a standard H6024 sealed beam bulb that fits in the standard headlight bucket (with some patience to fit the anti flicker module in there too). From the lens back is cast aluminum, not plastic, so I don't see them having any warp issues from stress or heat. As you can see from the link there's quite a bit of aluminum surface area on the back of these bulbs for heat dissipation, no fan. I've got them in bog stock headlight buckets. Since I'm heading out of town and the car is currently sitting on blocks while I finish some other stuff that requires underneath access I won't be doing the wall picks for a week or 2, but from the light on the wall about 5 feet in front of the car it appears to have a fairly crisp cut off line.

Yes, stock connectors. Had to use the anti-flicker modules which are stock connectors on both ends or the lights won't fire. The fun part was situating everything in the stock headlight buckets, but I was able to do it. Patience, patience, patience! Nobody else comes even close to the price of these lights! These headlights can be had for the price of the headlight relay alone and then you've eliminated the need for the relay. If they live up to regular LED longevity it should be the last headlights you'll ever put in your car. No, I'm not affiliated. https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015

Snap a couple of shots with my phone, all lights are LED... Not the best photo's but here ya go.

Bulbs I bought from Superbright bulbs; 2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate) 2 - 67-A12-G: Amber (side markers) 2 - 67-R12-G: Red (side markers) 1 - BA9S-WHP: Cool White (glove box) 2 - 3110-CW18-CB: Cool White (map and dome lights) All these fit without issue. The LED tail 1156 & 1157 for tail in the color of the lens (red for tail white for reverse) and LED 1157 for front blinker (Amber) I got from local NAPA store. They all fit fine.

All bulbs plugged into standard sockets. I went to https://www.superbrightleds.com/ and just did a 1156 equivalent for sidemarkers, regular tail and backup lights and 1157 equivalent for blinker bulbs in LED and a BA9 for the glove box. They look bone stock. Be sure to order the bulb color that matches the lens you're putting it behind. For the flashers I ordered 2 of these, 1 for blinker and 1 for emergency flashers. Worked fine. https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/65139883?cid=ppc-bing-New - Fleet Maintenance - PLA_EDmgDKpS__be_73667328438022_c_&mkwid=EDmgDKpS|dc&pcrid=73667328438022&product_id=65139883

My dash lights are the only bulbs left in the car that aren't LED. I've done all tail, marker, front signals, rear signals, dome, map and glove box. Also did electronic blinker and hazard flashers to accommodate LED bulbs, that way I didn't have to install load resistors at the bulb end. As far as cutting the bucket goes, with the longevity of LED I should never have to change a bulb! Yes, all stock wiring and with almost all bulbs being LED the overall harness load should be substantially reduced.

The lights showed up and all the stuff was there, anti flicker H4 -> H13 adapter. The bulbs seem to be very well made, clear polycarbonate lens slightly convex with fairly stout aluminum housing. Pulled the first headlight can and plugged in the light, switched on the lights and... Nothing! Unplugged the light and plugged in the anti flicker harness and viola, let there be light! It's a tight fight but I was able to get the anti flicker harness and the bulb in the stock headlight can. The other thing I'll mention is the bulb alignment nubs, had to use pliers and slightly bend out the indents to fit the nubs on the bulb. The nubs stick out just enough further that the bulb wouldn't seat without a slight bending out of the alignment slots with some pliers. If I had to go back to standard bulbs the alignment slots would still be fine. Don't know why the bulbs won't fire without the anti flicker?? The bulbs look fairly stock in the car. When on low beam the light is all on the top half of the bulb, high beams light up both top and bottom. I think I might lower the aim slightly as they do throw out some light. Looks like a pretty clean cutoff line against the wall so I should be able to adjust not to blind oncoming cars. We'll see how they hold up. At this price point they are a steal compared to all other comparable bulbs I've seen (they look just like the Truck-lite and Grote's). If you don't see more here it means they haven't failed. We'll see how the 6000K color works out. I figure my night driving will be pretty minimal in this car anyway.

Thanks, Michael Robbins (the guy you dealt with in this thread) is no longer with RetroSound and the person I initially talked to said they only ever had the 280 plate. I referred him to this thread and he now says he'll look and see if he can find one.

Well the new hoses are all in! The easy way for me was first to install the back hose on the heater core. Then I attached both the transfer hose and the other hose that goes through the firewall to the valve. Slid the hose through the firewall, connected to the block and then connected the transfer hose to the heater core. Last thing was to re-attach the valve to the heater core and last re-connect the control cable (I had marked the cable before I disconnected it). Oh, the reducer was a piece of cake, did it first. This is a job I don't want to do again, but if I have to the first steps will be to disconnect the cable from the valve and then unscrew the valve from the core, remove the transfer hose from the core, remove the other end from the block and take the whole thing out, then removing the hoses from the valve is easy. After that I'd have full access to the back hose on the heater core. Way easier once you've done it once! Again, a big thanks to Pat for making this job much easier!

I know this is an old thread, but I too have found that the plate that came with the unit does not match up for a 240Z install. Did Retrosound actually send you a plate with real 240Z template? I've contacted them and they seem to know nothing about a 240z plate. I referred them to your post and they sound like it never happened.

Finally pulled the trigger on some H6024 LED headlights. Here's what I ordered https://www.eaglelites.com/collections/jeep-led-kits/products/eagle-lights-7-round-led-headlights-jeep-wrangler-cj-jk-tj-97-2015 Looks like they're probably made by the same manufacturer as the Truck-lite or Grote's. They list at $179.99 US for the pair and says they come with everything you need. If you go to close the page it will pop up a 10% discount code. I'm guessing the power requirements should drop to less than 4 amps for high and less than 2 amps for low beam. Since I found my car is a "perdiddle" I figured I'd pull the trigger on these. I'll update when I get them in the car.

Just a comment on the picture you posted of your car... I didn't know that Canada got Euro style non-emission cars back in the early days. That balance tube looks to be the Euro style tube available from ZTherapy and there are some differences I see in the carb linkage from my 12/70 USA car due to the non-emission, cool!

Just a comment... I've had a clutch slave cylinder failure that rendered no clutch pedal. I had no trouble driving. Just shut off the motor at the light, put it in 1st and started it in 1st when time to go. Shifting isn't a problem without a clutch if you're careful... no jamming, let off the gas and the car will easily come out of gear then just ease it to the next gear as the RPM's drop. This is one of the kinds of things you could do in old cars that "aren't allowed" in the new high tech car world.

I think that he meant the low/high beam switch on the blinker stalk, not the dash light dimmer knob.

I know this is an old thread, but Pat, you deserve a BIG THANK YOU! After 46 years I had one of my heater hoses start leaking where it attached to the Y thing by the reducer hose on the engine side of the block, when I pulled the hose off it looked like it was disintegrating. The reducer and the other heater hose that connects to the block looked like they would probably fail in the not to distant future too. I also have original dealer installed A/C and thought I'd started an impossible task. Finding your approach of removing the control valve made the removal doable. After getting the 1st hose and transfer hose off my biggest issue was that the original factory installer faced the screw on the second heater hose clamp straight up (must have been a mean joke) so I ended up having to use wire cutters to get that clamp off. I'll be switching to regular worm gear clamps so I can use a nut driver with an extension on the new clamps. All new heater hoses, reducer and transfer hose are on the way. Next time this becomes an issue it will be some one else's problem.

Thanks, looks just like my 12/70 car. My Clymer manual shows the PCV valve position to be the same from 70 -72, but says the 73-74 is different, but similar. Still curious as to the difference introduced with I'm guessing car HLS30-21001 from earlier cars? Since I consider hoses as "consumables" I'd like a spare. This hose is a different size at the block than it is at the PCV valve, at least on my 17,486 car.

Still looking on headlights. I have started leaning more towards Grote http://www.grote.com/products/90941-5-grote-7-inch-led-headlight-sealed-beam-replacement/ or Truck lite http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&urlLangId=-1&productId=48710 These 2 choices look more stock. I'm thinking that if I do all my exterior lighting with LED - marker, tail, license plate, front blinker/park, electronic flasher for blinkers and flashers to handle LED along with LED headlights I will not need to do any wiring changes since the power draw will be substantially reduced to the point where the wattage draw won't be an issue. The one thing I've read about the LED's that sit behind a colored lens (blinkers, tail and markers) is you should get a bulb that is the same color as the lens. For instance if you put a white LED behind a red lens the lens will block all color from the bulb except red which will reduce the brightness of the bulb, so you should put a red LED bulb behind a red lens. https://www.superbrightleds.com/ sells colored bulbs to match the lens color you're putting it behind. They cost more, but with their rated life you should never have to replace them.

The PCV valve on my car is also in the center of the balance tube. Interesting that ZCarDepot lists 1 hose for 70 - 74, but MSA lists a hose separate for 70 that's NLA and then a hose for 71 - 72 that is available and NLA for 73 - 74. Maybe ZCarDepot's hose fits more cars because they charge twice as much for the hose than MSA!

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic16d/15-6211 Is listed for 71 - 72 cars. The same part for 70 cars is no longer available. My car is titled & registered as a 71, but was built 12/70. The parts appear to be the same, what's the difference and what serial # car would the 71 - 72 part start at?

From what I can find typical oil temp is between 230 and 260 degrees F. Water temp leaving the block where temp is measured is roughly 180 to 200 by the temp gauge on the dash. Don't know what the water temp is a the bottom of the radiator when it goes back to the block, but it's got to be somewhat less than when it leaves the block. The ATF cooling section is at the bottom of the radiator so my guess is it would have a positive effect on cooling the oil.