w3wilkes

One other thing to note is that due to the shape of the tank the gauge comes off "F" fairly quick because the top part of the tank is way smaller than the bottom part of the tank. The fuel gauge moves much slower in the bottom half of the gauge.

I went with gunmetal

So as not to thread jack another thread. In post #14 of this thread It talks about current driven tach in the 240Z and voltage driven tach in the 260Z and up. Does current mean the amps increase as the revs increase and likewise voltage means voltage increases with revs? I have a tach issue where my tach works fine from idle to about 3000 revs and then pretty much stays close to 3000 for all higher revs. I have a ZX electronic dizzy and the balast resistor has been removed (I didn't personally do this, but an old school Z guy that I trust did it for me). All was well for about 3 years (probably no more than 4000 miles). Then one day about 5 years ago the tach just slowly crept all the way up on its own unrelated to actual engine revs. I pulled over, shut the car off, started it back up and it's been in the idle to 3000 okay mode since. The car runs just great, just not the tach. It's not a big deal, it just bugs me. I've cleaned all the connections with no change in symptom. Looking for any suggestions... Thanks

One other tidbit on the 240Z dash. The cigar lighter in the above 240Z is the way it was on my 73 240Z. My current 12/70 car has the cigar lighter under the heater controls on the right side of the fusebox cover plate. The cigar lighter spot is not cut out but the indent is there as a blank spot where I guess you could install like a driving light switch or maybe a beer tap?

Grand kids are even more fun! You can spoil them like their parents won't.

Slightly blurred at the end of the clip but it looks like a late 60's yellow MGB, Midget or maybe Sprite right over the motorcycle riders' right hand on the left side of the darker blue VW.

Don't know which '49 Chevy you had but my wife's '50 chev 3100 had a "push button" start before we hot rodded it. It was a foot "push button" that activated the solenoid for the starter. We have modified the truck a little since we inherited. It was her dads and she drove it in high school over 50 years ago.

At least the Maverik stations in my neck of the woods have dedicated hoses for the ethanol free gas.

Is this true across the board? Would it also apply in the case of a ZX dizzy in my 12/71 Z? The place that did my change is "no more" and they didn't say what coil they used, they did remove the ballast resistor. I've been curious if I ever need a new coil.

Thanks, now I can see the pictures!

I guess I don't have access to these pictures. One question on this... Is that tab that the clutch hard line connects to there on an AT car?

As far as oil type used I've been using Driven HR1 15W-50 Conventional Hot Rod Oil (drivenracingoil.com) and have been very happy with it. Has all the additives for our older engines.

I must recant... Looking at the top cross section diagram with the BR212 in the bottom right corner (assuming relational distances depicted are correct) the distance from the plunger to the exit pot is greater on the firewall side chamber of the MC with a longer shaft allowing it to move greater amounts of fluid both on the input side and output side. With the difference in the shaft length sections for the two reservoirs they will move different amounts of fluid. From the diagram I can't tell if the shaft is a single piece or is it two pieces and the brake fluid between two pieces of shaft moves the further shaft from the firewall. If that makes any sense... @Captain Obvious PS- I've never personally had one apart so I'm totally basing this speculation on the diagrams.

If what @Zed Head says is true then it seems like you could just swap the reservoirs and be done with it rather than rerouting the lines to the brake warning switch.

RIP - David Crosby A great loss to the music world. Founding member of the Byrds w/Roger Mcguinn and then again with CSN and CSNY. A sad day for sure.

Here's a thread I started because I did LED headlights without the MSA harness and had to use the anti-flicker module to initially get my lights to work. I then did the MSA harness after researching a little more and finding out how it was actually implemented which then allowed me to remove the anti-flicker module. Thought this thread might help others going LED headlights. The way Datsun powered the 3 prong plug was opposite of the way "Detroit" did it. And I have no clue how Lucas would have done it. 🤔

@PatconI've probably missed it somewhere but are you going for a "total stock" restoration? If not, you only need one headlight fuse for use with @Zs-ondabrain's Headlight relay upgrade that MSA sells. Of course, it will turn out to be the one that is fried in your fusebox.

@siteunseen Saw on the news that Alabama has had some dicey weather with massive tornados. Hope all is well!

@siteunseen Saw on the news that Alabama has had some dicey weather with massive tornados. Hope all is well!

Really nice!

I could swear I read that someone on these boards was looking for the welting?

Kind of a corny song but definitely funny. I have the album and also their Twisted Laurel album and really like them both. Wife hates both of them, what can I say?

The reason I mention about LED's is because of the way the headlights are wired from the factory. When I went to LED headlights I had to either use the included "anti-flicker" device that came with my LED headlights or put in the Headlight relay upgrade Harness sold by MSA which I've now done. I created a thread that describes the way Datsun wired the headlight circuit vs the way it's changed with the plug and play upgrade harness originally created by @Zs-ondabrain. Since the diagram doesn't show where the high beam indicator is in the circuit it may be that power goes through that connector the "wrong way" for an LED bulb. Here's a link to the thread;

I went a little different route with my rocker switch. Since the hand throttle was removed I repurposed the slot.