w3wilkes
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Everything posted by w3wilkes
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If you use these will the fuse box cover still fit?
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Looks really nice! I'll bet you're starting to itch. I think I'd be afraid to drive it, looks more "polished" than factory.
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Here's the sightings thread.
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Just a word of caution on turbo. I used to have a '77 930 and the thing you had to keep in mind was you needed to have the car pointed in the direction you wanted to go before putting the hammer down to avoid having the back of the car pass the front of the car. The other thing was "turbo lag". It seemed like it took forever after you put the hammer down for turbo boost to kick in and it would then nail you to the seatback.
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I've been running Joe Gibbs 15-50 HR1 oil in my untouched 100K+ miles Z motor as it has all the additives these older engines like. Amazon.com: Driven Racing Oil HR-1 Hot Rod Motor Oil Conventional 15w-50 (12 Quart Case) : Automotive
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If you're searching for keyed 12V in the engine bay my car is not to far off of Duffy's - 12/70. I found an unused keyed 12V bullet connector lead in the harness by the battery. Like the plug in front of the console for the electric fuel pump it was in blue tape. I used it for the electric fan controller relay. Both the blue tape and fan controller can be seen in this shot.
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What I saw towards the end of the video was the temp gauge pegged and then rev the engine to ~3000RPM and the temp gauge came back down under no load. I thought you or someone suggested trying a new temp sending unit to see if that's where the problem lies. It would be interesting to see what an IR temp sensor would show on the t-stat housing when the temp gauge is pegged.
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Is the thermostat housing top on backwards?
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It may be that the current vacuum advance from the intake manifold is okay. Should be able to tell how the advance is working that way with a timing light. If it's working okay this way the hole in the carb could just be plugged (with a nail 😁, not really).
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The "series 1" cars have the water through the intake manifold, just not into the carbs. The picture posted by @siteunseen (the librarian) of the 2 intake manifolds shows the water line on both the early 70-71 cars (4 screw carbs) and the 72 cars (3 screw carbs) the big difference is the 72 manifold has an additional loop in each carb mounting to route water through the carbs themselves.
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Maybe the green tape means GoesFast? 😇
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Is there a difference between the 4 Cyl you posted vs this 6 Cyl? Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Datsun/Nissan, 240Z, 6-cyl Hitachi Dist | eBay
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Welcome and very nice score on the car!
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Since I've replaced all my bulbs except the dash lights with LED to take the load off the wiring including the headlights with the harness upgrade mentioned before the 60 amp alternator seems to be more than enough for my needs. I did do the Retrosound stereo and will be reactivating my dealer installed A/C eventually I think I'm more than good. The 60 amp upgrade I used was this from MSA that eliminates the mechanical voltage regulator where I mounted the headlight relays (there's a note at the end for 73 cars to contact MSA for some options) Motorsport! 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-72 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts
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Since I also did the 60 amp internally regulated alternator I "hid" the relays in plain site by mounting them where the old voltage regulator used to live.
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You will need the relays that MSA sells; Motorsport! Headlight Relay Upgrade Harness, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX ( Z31 Z32 ) 350Z 370Z Parts The reason you need these is because of the way Datsun wired the headlights which is a problem for LED's because diodes (the "D" in LED) only allow electricity to flow in one direction. Here's a thread I started that explains why you need the relays.
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I went with leather from Interior Innovations and new foam from MSA. I also did matching leather for the shifter and ebrake boots. Here's my thread; Leather Seats - Interior - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)
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Accelerator J rod part number 18300-E4601 and subsequent
w3wilkes replied to zed2's topic in Carburetor Central
The bottom "J" rod in your first pic is what's on my MFG'd 12/70 car. Here's a shot of the attachment on the balance tube. In your pic I don't see the hole for the pin holding the washer for the spring (guessing it's really there though).
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One other note on the ZX distributor is the E12-92 module also works just fine. I've been running E12-92 since somewhere around 2006.
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They are local so I've used Ogden Chrome and had great results. I had a damaged rear fender corner and bought a new one. The chrome didn't match so I had all bumper parts front and rear re-chromed. My only caveat is that it was 1991. One funny thing is the folks in SLC swear by Ogden Chrome and those in Ogden swear by Salt Lake Chrome.
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Just decided I have another question regarding the "L" (2) thing in my earlier snip. When you advance the throttle (push on the gas pedal) does it operate the "L" pushing it up to open the butterfly plate in the carb? It should!
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From your video I don't see that the front choke is also opening the butterfly in the carb. The rear looks to be working correctly. In the snip I stole from your video when you press up on the choke the "bell crank" (1) should be opening the throttle butterfly plate by pushing up on the "L" (2) but I don't see that happening like I do see it happening on the rear carb.
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Still looking at your pics and want to verify that you have throttle return springs attached to the 2 circled levers and go down and attach to the heat shield between the intake and exhaust manifolds.
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One thing I notice is this spring I've circled in red. Remove it and just let that lever thing it's attached to flop around. That lever thing is for a partial throttle opener on deceleration but the emissions part that connects to that lever has been deleted. As it is the spring would be fighting the throttle close springs on each carb.
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Here's how the throttle return springs should be hooked up. There's one on each carb.
