Warty

I couldn't see the relevant parts of the arms with the door closed up, but the good news is that the window action is very smooth, fully retracted to full extended. I will probably let sleeping dogs lie in this case...

I ordered a firewall insulation piece a few years ago, just before setting the project aside. Back on the project now, and looking at the firewall piece, it has a black board-like material that you would glue to the firewall, then the jute, then... nothing. I think it should have a layer of black tarry/rubbery stuff facing the driver, no? (My car had a previous "restoration", and while it had black stuff facing the driver, it was shiny, and inside it was not jute, but some kind of fiberglass insulation). I think I can just use it as a pattern, and glue something onto it, but... what to use? Shiny black with silver foil back. Seems like overkill, also don't not sure it's strong enough to hang the carpet off of? - $33 https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Silver-Double-Bubble-Insulation/dp/B0BQZ7XDCZ The Garage Guard by Oil-Dri mat thing: - $24, but maybe a bit heavy? https://www.amazon.com/Drymate-Spill-Inches-Premium-Absorbent/dp/B07R185TNN Vinyl mat - 2 lbs - $29 - maybe the best yet? https://www.amazon.com/Resilia-Work-Bench-Easy-Clean/dp/B09K5ZCPCZ Anybody have any other suggestions?

ah. Found this on eBay, the little disk assembly at the end of the arms? https://www.ebay.com/itm/304831975810?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=304831975810&targetid=1645685073288&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9019559&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=115057574&gclid=CjwKCAjwsvujBhAXEiwA_UXnADVdoigwp8XSbf3Ye_QaOZEfjUlgIYsYiGCxLvB_5Ybs4QTuL1ZKUxoCulsQAvD_BwE The 2 disks I found don't have those lips, but the clearer plastic piece could easily be that cup-like thing. I'm not sure I've ever opened the passenger door window, where I found these. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

I am re-skinning the doors of my 1970 240Z, putting them back to blue. When I removed the door cards, I checked to see how much rust could be found inside the cavity of the doors (luckily: none, except some very light surface rust inside the very very front of the passenger door. Also at the very very front there, was a lot of stuff. Washers, bits of old clip cups, etc. But these 2 white mystery disks... Anybody know what these are?

Thanks for that vote. I spent the weekend working on the car, and did some soul searching and decided I think it would be better to keep moving back towards original condition, not "better" condition. So, no dynamat. I also did an experiment this weekend that another poster suggested, spraying the jute with clear PlastiDip. I thought this would produce a rubbery effect, but it didn't. Maybe it would if you put on 40 coats, but I just did 4. It definitely seems to cut down the "dust" effect though, so I'm going to spray the jute under the carpet with it, when I get that far. Off to hunt for snaps for the carpet & firewall...

I chipped up a tiny amount of it, but have decided to leave it in place. This car had a fair amount of un-originality when I bought it, thanks to PO doing a restoration in something like 1990, and switching interior from blue to black, with carpet all up the tunnel, etc. However, maybe because of that restoration, maybe luck (Colorado car helped a little maybe), it is remarkably rust-free for a 1970 Z.

I just completed the same restoration, using namerow's instructions. Thank you! I wanted to save ink when printing, so I remade the patterns as line-drawings (I successfully expended 5-10 hrs of time remaking patterns to save ~$1 of ink). I also tweaked a few things here and there to match up my parts better. And added a drawing of the pieces to line the end-cap of the heater housing. I took the advice here, and used 1/8 closed cell foam for most parts (each page in the PDF lists the width). I found self-adhering sheets on Amazon (set of 5), and had a bit extra left at the end. For the 1/4" I found a pack of 4 sheets, but only needed 1. I also cut up dish washing sponges from DollarTree for the 3/4" pads, but if I had to do it again, I might look for something that is natively 3/4" in height. No real complications, other than wasting an unbelievable amount of time re-creating the traces <grin>. 1/4" foam (with sticker back): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJKM78PB - $12 1/8" foam (with sticker back): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P1XQMQH - $14 For the vinyl covering, I found a roll at Michael's on sale for like $6. https://www.michaels.com/product/cricut-permanent-smart-vinyl-10678108 The vinyl had a sticker back, but for attaching to the sponges, it was worthless, so I used a spray glue. On the other hand, the way the heater core gets crammed in there, it would hold the vinyl against the sponges anyway. I also applied the vinyl to all the sponge pieces, but it only needed to be on the 2 that have hose attachments. I used this same vinyl for the 4 pieces used in the open/shut doors, and against the closed cell foam, it stuck fine. Hope that helps somebody in the future! 240Z series HVAC gaskets.pdf

The above link to Z depot's carpet slip-stopper springs is no longer valid, here is the current one: https://zcardepot.com/products/carpet-anti-slide-clip-set-240z-260z-280z?_pos=6&_sid=736ad8d62&_ss=r Price is $41 at the time of this post.

Hi Folks, I have a 1970 I've been tinkering with as time allows. The car originally had a blue interior, but then some nice person screwed down brown carpet, and another nice person after that installed black carpet and black vinyl in back. I am restoring to the original blue. I still have most of the interior bare, but I'm close to being ready to re-assembly everything. Just finished cleaning out the heater core and blower, should be able to get that reassembled by end of this week. I can't decide if I should try to do jute padding for trans tunnel and under seats and on rear deck, or DynaPad + Dynamat Xtreme. I have a new set of jute I cut myself, and I have a repro carpet kit, and a repro blue vinyl set to go over. I am generally trying to get this car to be MORE original than it was when I bought it, but OTOH... I really hated removing all the hairy jute crap, and I hate to think of the next owner (yes, the wife tells me there WILL be a next owner) having to go through that removal process if they want to go a different way. I don't have any experience with the Dynamat stuff, but it looks pretty straightforward to work with (and I have paper and jute patterns for the cutouts anyway). I'm not going to make this a daily driver, but seems like Dynamat would be quieter (and cooler) and easier to "undo". I haven't made up my mind, but I'll probably sell the car a year or two after I finish it so I do have the next owner on my mind. Any recommendations one way or the other?

No problem, jhm. I knew how old the post was, but had to ask!

@240260280: Thanks for the idea, I'm going to try that. @Zup: If you were to do it again, would you go with the Plasti-Dip, or use something else? It's not "tacky" or anything when you are done? I've never used Plasti-Dip, so not familiar with how it feels. @26th-Z: if you send me your snail mail address, I'd be happy to drop a little chunk into the mail so you can see what it feels like.

If you still have that radio bracket, could I get it?

Hi All, I have a 1970 240Z I bought a couple of years ago, and have been (slowly) redoing the interior. I'm not going for concours here, but I do try to get back to as close to 1970 as I can, when there is an option. There are millions of threads on Jute (I think I might have read all of them. Often more than once, but I have a memory leak). I started out with jute from a british roadster site. I didn't order enough, and found some on Amazon a while back. The british stuff was like Kat's yellow/blond color, the amazon stuff looked more like gray/multicolor carpet jute to me. I like the look of the yellow stuff more, but good lord, I hate working with it. If I look at it wrong, it emits a cloud of hair/fiber/stuff. The gray stuff is the same thickness, cuts almost as easily, but doesn't disintegrate when you stare at it for more than 5 seconds. I have to order more of one or the other, to finish out. I'm pretty sure I'm going to sell this 240Z when I'm done (I dunno, maybe I'll like it more when it's complete)... Am I going to hurt myself / the next owner if I do the gray jute? The stuff under the carpet is fine, you can just replace it. But the stuff I'll put on the tunnel is for ever. (Although if I were the next owner, I would definitely rather strip off the gray jute rather than the yellow stuff, based on my experience taking out the jute that was on this car). Or, and I guess this is probably heresy: for the stuff that gets glued down and goes under the vinyl, maybe even use a modern sound deadening material? I think that would be easiest to remove in the future. Roadster Factory "Original Jute": http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials9.35/38.php?s_wt=2560&s_ht=1440 Jute from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/MACs-Auto-Parts-51-26251-Backing/dp/B072BZ7JL9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MACs+Auto+Parts+jute&qid=1562379158&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I have a series I car, and am working at restoring the interior. The car went through a large-scale restoration in the 90s under a previous owner, and has a lot of not-quite-original-to-1970 stuff going on. I've got the dash out, and have a new dash pad from VintageDashes ready to go on, but before I put the dash back in, I want to ask what my options are for the hazard switch. The current switch is the push/pull model from later Zs. I've looked on eBay, and see one early toggle switch for $125 starting. This car is not going to get to concours condition, but my preference is to get it closer to 1970 whenever I have a chance. 1. Is the 1970 toggle switch electrically compatible with the later push/pull one I have now? In other words: if I splurge on a 1970 switch, would it be plug-n-play? 2. Any options for third-party switches, and if so... would that maybe just be worse, from a restoration point of view (compared to keeping 1973+ lighted switch)? Some things I've found online: eBay - $125 starting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240Z-Hazard-Switch-/293139746651?oid=382291049229. A NOS one went for $500 recently. vaguely similar classic switch from british automotive - $10ish plus shipping - https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/auto-electrical-spares/switches/toggle-switches/genuine-lucas-spb200-31909-65sa-toggle-switch z source - requires exchange so that won't work - $133 - https://zcarsource.com/used-240z-hazard-light-switch-for-the-1970-72-datsun-240z Close up photos of an early switch - 8 connections!??? - means maybe there is no generic switch stand in possibility? - https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/

I'm installing a modern pioneer into a 1970 Z. This car had a blaupunkt tapedeck installed in the 80s. It powered up when I got the car, but apparently it needs an amp (and they took out the speakers too, but whatever). I've been reading up in the FSM, the forum, and google. It seems pretty straightforward, but I want to ask to make sure about 2 things. 1. What is going on in this picture? This is the radio harness removed. I checked voltage, and the red/blue is +12V at ACC, 0V when off. Blue is +12 always. Some PO wired these together. Then to a 1A fuse. Then to the radio. I don't have wiring diagram for the blaupunckt, so no idea what it had for options. But why would these be wired together? Any reason I can't separate them? The Pioneer wants a constant power line to the battery to retain memory, and another line so it knows when to turn on. 2. The car has a newer antenna installed, I'm sure it's automatic. The blaunpunkt had only a ground, the power, and a blue line labeled "antenna" coming out of it. The antenna-marked wire was connected to the 240Z's blue-white wire. The blue/white line I *think* I should hook up to what Pioneer calls the remote control, but which is apparently just what you would use to control an automatic antenna. I'm not good with wiring diagrams (in the FSM, etc.). Or is blue/white instead just the interior illumination, and so I should hook it up to the orange/white (pioneer) wire so the stereo turns on lighting at night? I'm having trouble tracing the wires from the antenna, they are bundled together with the pack of wires that runs along the right side of the car and comes out under the right-side of the dash.

And, finally, to REALLY complete it, here is a 10-year thread with a full discussion of the jute, and, on page 5, a PDF you can download with a 1970-71 Jute pattern.

And to complete the nevermind bit, here is info on the metal carpet clips: https://zcardepot.com/interior/carpet-sets/carpet-anti-slide-clip-set-240z-260z-280z.html ($40) The forum post has a clipping of the service bulletin. It looks to me like they were not there for 1970s Zs, but probably needed them, hence the change. I would guess some folks' dealers installed them for them after the fact.

nevermind question #2 up there, I found the right thread, with lots of pictures and info:

I'm in a very similar situation to Careless: trying to restore a 1970 Z to close-to-factory. Careless, what did you do for the template for the Jute? I am going to order a 54" roll from the TRF site. Two other questions: Does anyone have a picture of what the steel spring attachments look like, and how they attach to the floor behind the seats? A lot of "work" happened to the interior of my Z, I can't really trust anything I see in it. Did i understand right that the male snaps for the front are attached directly to the firewall insulation part? (mine wasn't original, and didn't have snaps, was all re-done by some upholstery shop). Any pictures of that? I have to secure a new firewall insulation kit anyway, and get put snaps on it. Seems like squishy material to have snaps pull on it, but maybe not a lot of tension happens.

All I found was mouse droppings and bits of shag carpet, so I think you win! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

What kind of abuse do you need to give a car to get a rusty STEERING wheel?? On the plus side the Datsun emblem glued to the air cleaner box might be metal and worth something to a 1970 restorer. But back to 4858: looks like fun! Is it red or regular orange? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Of course you could be right, there isn't a lot of information to go on. I think we need someone with actual knowledge of the situation. Linguistically, I don't know that there's anything conclusive. I did run it by a professional Japanese translators at work (I'm not a native speaker, and no longer translate professionally), and she basically said it was impossible to say. "古いマークで最近は使用されていないか、日本以外で付けられたか、公式なマークではないことが考えられますでしょうか。" So no luck there, so far. Whether the panels are "fire safe" or not doesn't matter: we know they were changed for 1973, to be compliant. Here are a couple more sources on that: "The "off-white" actually came in 73 - if you place the two side by side, you can see the difference. The reason the 73's are off-white is because Flame Retardant interior materials had to be used for cars sold in the US that model year. That new material was every so slightly - off white. Kind of in between white and light cream. The "white in the Z" wasn't a problem - they sold very well in 73. However at the begining of the model run we started getting PL510's - Orange with Green interiors... very ugly... That is when we found out that several colors were held up, due to the new Flame Retardant Materials regulations. Nissan actually suppled new Black interiors for several of the ugly PL510's that would not sell otherwise." http://www.blackdragonauto.com/zZxCatalog.htm 1973 Carburetors, manifolds and cylinder head changed for emissions requirements. Distributor changed to transistorized breakerless ignition system. Intermittent windshield wipers added as standard equipment. Tinted glass, 3 point adjustable seat belts, collapsible steering column and fire retardant interior introduced. Reclining seats added.

Yeah. Maybe consider not fully re-attaching that. Honestly, that thing was a seriously bad idea (from a safety point of view). having said that, now I want to go get the rest of one of those assemblies and hook it up on my car just to see how it works. I have the lever assembly, but not the cable assembly.

Oh, the panels definitely were changed "around" 1973 (not sure how far in advance) to be compliant. Doesn't mean that they, or anything else people were doing at the time were not still going to burn, it just means they complied with the regulation. Maybe added bromide to the mix, I dunno. If you search for FMVSS in this forum and others, you'll find some references. Zhome calls it out too. As far the term, I'm pretty confident that 難燃料、難燃性, etc., etc are all standard terms. And in our particular context, I'm not sure they are likely to be anything else. Other than maybe the first character of a factory name, but I didn't turn up anything likely there. As to why some panels have them, others don't, well, I would guess there was quite a bit of variety at the factories, but also, those panels would get swapped around at dealers quite a bit I imagine. Who knows what happened to our cars 40+ years ago? And, of course, it is possible Datsun was getting out ahead of the Jan 1, 1973 implementation date. I *think*, but am not sure, the regulations are born in a 1966 act of congress. So by 1970, they may have known pretty well what was coming. I think someone who knows a lot more than me about Datsun manufacturing history can probably give us a definitive answer.

The faded blue: you might trying retrobriting it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retr0bright I don't know what these panels are made of, so I can't say whether that would work or not, but I suspect it would. But read about retrobriting before doing it, and maybe test on a small sliver first. If it worked, it would completely change the color of those panels, back to the bright blue you see on the back.