AK260

Captain, you never disappoint! @billgtp - it would be very interesting to see how the worn shaft does with new bearings. Are the seals rubber? Do the rotate with the bearings? If not, is it worth adding some high temp silicone grease to them to help them?

So as @Captain Obvious says, when I took apart thee set of worn carbs that I’m modifying (eventually!!) I found that worn “collar” was 9.5mm and the wear on the bush was about 0.4mm. The wear on both ends was 180° with 90° being the most worn but interestingly the wear was 90° offset rotational from one end to the other! The chap in Birmingham (UK) is remaking new shafts. I can only assume Ztherapy do the same. Butterflies don’t really wear appreciably. But I’m happy to be corrected. I’m potentially going to get a buddy to CNC some new stainless steel shafts for me, but they will be “modified for flow versions”, not stock. Happy to measure / share stock dimensions if any good to anyone wishing to CAD them and make some..

I think it’s key to get a good dollop of high temp grease in there before re-assembling the carbs. With no airflow through it, the bearings should stay lubricated for our lifetime!!

You know chap, I’ve been having the same thought for sometime now on the cup bearings - this is the type of thing I was considering … https://signetid.co.uk/metric-bk-series-needle-roller-bearing-closed-end/ That way who cares if the shaft wears inside it! 😉

Interesting thread! I too am looking for sealed bearings as I embark on totally messing up a set of spare carbs that are worn anyway. Not sure why the site won't let me link to my other thread: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/hitachi-su-carbs-the-david-vizard-modifications.30868/ I agree that these won't be vacuum sealed but the sleeve bearings aren't fully air tight either - right?

You know, my MR2 in the 90’s had a sub behind both seats from the factory and it was stunning in operation! Didn’t shake the cars around me, but in the car it shook your bottom nicely!

Agree with Mr [mention=22019]Patcon[/mention] - the factory location on my 260z (just behind the seats on the sides with tiny speakers) isn’t great for sound. Let alone anything in the luggage area behind strut towers! BUT, this little baby (USW10) under the passenger seat transformed things to an “acceptable” standard. The sub volume controller is hidden under the ashtray and very useful to have for easy tweaking. Shockingly great bass from such a little thing! Incidentally, I refuse to put more holes into my car than the factory did, so I used industrial Velcro to hold it down. A total no no for sub woofer mounting, but it works exceptionally well and didn’t have a detrimental affect. https://amzn.eu/d/4M8AstJ Then having gone through the effort, I found myself just listening to the engine [emoji14] Seriously though, in my experience as a car audio-holic in my younger days, what I’ve found is that with speakers, the “cavity” and its solidity / sealing was everything when it comes to decent bass and some mid range. In a car environment it’s hard to beat a decent (and discrete) pair of 2 way speakers at the front with separate tweeters up high - ideally at dashboard top height but maybe at visor height in a Z to keep things looking clean? Finally, MLV sound deadening is vital on the car panels behind / around the speakers - especially if open cavity. My high end 6x9s on a custom heavy arse shelf sounded amazing in one car. But the same set up transferred into a hot-hatch French car with panels made of Cornflake packets sounded like $10 speakers. The paper thin panels just absorbed everything but treble!

Doing great work there - hang tough buddy, you’re making progress. It’s great to see you taking the time and giving it the proper attention it needs. This is why I didn’t take mine to a “specialist”. They would in no way give the time and attention you have to get it absolutely spot on. This will pay dividends down the road - literally! ;) When I was playing with mine, I was using throttle body / carb cleaner to get the paint off, then wiping down with microfibre cloth. I agree, WD40 may be causing you some additional fun. Not sure if this is helpful but the buddy doing my R200 received shims yesterday from the Zcardepot in Nissan packaging. They appear to be very decent quality - albeit a very different size to that which you require. Is it worth tapping them up for your shims to see if they have the size you need and comparing with the ones you have? We spent £43GBP postage - at least you have the luxury of paying a lot less. I felt like holding them in my hand and exclaiming: “my precious”!!!!!

So very sorry to hear this happened! It’s a shame about the garage not thinking but nothing can reverse that now. When reading this thread my immediate thought was: under prolonged hard acceleration, what little oil there was sloshed to the back of the diff and starved the pilot bearing / pinion shaft. I have to say what Mr @inline6 is saying is the most likely cause IMHO! Good luck and keep us posted. I do hope it’s just as simple as the bearings - nothing else in your photos seems to be obviously damaged and these diffs are pretty hardy / well engineered.

I hear you - me too ;) I should have initiated the thread way earlier in my ownership but it got started when I did the engine transplant. Ah, sorry, didn’t realise :( I’ll have a chat with our webmaster to see if it’s an error or if there’s a policy around certain content.

Ps. Here is a great write up on the R200 conversion by one of the UK members: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/r200-diff-quaife-atb-lsd-conversion.27184/

Good call, but mine is more of a history of my car, not sure it’s ideal for searching on a specific topic I guess, hence my thoughts about a specific R200 / Quaife one here. But for now, here it is, starts on post 419, “The year of the Derrière”!! https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/from-smoker-to-sssssmokin’.23533/page-21

@Patcon - good plan. I’m documenting it on the UK site but I’ll start a different thread here and put the same info in. Different thread so as to not hijack the OP’s one and to have a separate one related to the R200.

Based on what data? Are they comparing against stock specs and covering themselves without really looking into it? I've run both 7 and 6 on mine without issue. Again, referring back to the size chart above, the two key dimensions are: "B" - the size of the plug / thread pitch and "E" the reach / protrusion into the combustion chamber. As long as those are correct, they will fit, the rest is just variations around the edges for it's function etc. They are cheap enough, so if postage isn't nuts, why not just purchase one and compare / try it on the car to put your mind at rest. Then when you are happy, you can order 5 more 😉

Excellent! That’s great news and makes it easy. A very capable buddy of mine is building mine and this is how far it’s got last night! Although we’re not touching the pinion. I was thinking of building a jig for my R200, to hold the carrier assembly at the bearings in order to spin / test / adjust run-out. But it doesn’t sound like I need to. I’ll check with him to see if mine is as tight as yours. Been stalking your progress with great interest - especially as someday I will likely buy the Kameari gear set and build into one of my spare diffs. What is disappointing is that we need to shim 0.3mm and 0.26mm and in the UK you can find really thin 0.01mm up to 0.05mm shims, then 0.5mm and increments of 1mm but nothing in 0.05mm increments past 1mm. So we have to shop from the US. [emoji20] Or get some laser cut as the postage/import duty costs are silly!

So here is a question I’m wondering about. How do you centre the crown wheel onto the Quaife? I’m pretty certain the Quaife is machined to tighter tolerances, so while the 10 bolts centre the crown wheel, I can’t imagine tightening bolts alone does a perfect job. And the other questions are: will it have material effect on the leashing with the pinion gear? If so, is it possible to measure / adjust any run-out when mounted into the case?

But I would still check the gaps with a feeler gauge to be certain they are all the same. I’m sure they will be but always good to be certain.

Wot he said!!! Here’s the full explanation from the link I shared above

This may help The R just means Resistor - used to reduce EM “noise”. good read on heat range and the why https://www.ngk.com/what-is-a-spark-plugs-heat-range-2

Often used when talking about MAP (manifold absolute pressure) As been said already, what I see on your plugs is Lean, very hot burn and some detonation marks (although that could just be the photo quality).

Not wishing to take your thread off track - if you were ever in any doubt about the price v quality of your Quaife, have a read of this: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57834-obx-vs-quaife-with-pixors/

Well it did take 5 hours to get the blessed thing off (in prep for the Quaife ATB going into it)! My wife made some noise though as I told her I’d be just a couple of hours tops 🤣 she should know better by now! Things just take that much longer when you’re working on the drive between 3°-0°C with wind blowing across you. Helps go faster if you can feel your fingers!

Parked up in the garage, big clunk, diff fell out!

I find using Ghostry on the home PC has reduced a lot of those annoying ones. I totally hear you on those Amps you mentioned. Trouble is, in this day and age if Spotify, MP3s and Bluetooth connections, we’re all more used to lower fidelity sound. Then the other day I put on a CD on the hifi with the floor standers and I was literally wowed! Then I pulled out the same track on vinyl and messed with my own head. That argument of vinyl v CD went round and round and round again. But the soundstage felt so much wider and richer that anything I can play off Spotify or using Bluetooth to connect to the car / headphones / amp!

Ah but I see you’re a connoisseur of amplification!! I love the way you’re thinking!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼