AK260

On my L26 without aircon, the timing pointer was on the carb side of the engine where the aircon compressor would be fitted. On my L28 it is on the spark plug side to allow space for aircon compressor. I’m guessing cooler is a translation anomaly, meaning aircon.

Well done you! That is great progress indeed! I’ve spent an unholy amount of time playing with carb needles and springs. The strange thing is, I would have said that N27 may be too lean for your engine, but then someone here in the UK found they worked great on a 3.1L stroker! Go figure! Unless you have a wide-band AFR sensor / gauge fitted, you are forever guessing. But with a stock engine, the N27 set up richly or SM set up 2-2.5 turns down, should serve you well. Good luck with the finals.

Now then, this does make it MUCH more compelling!!!! How on earth did I miss that? Obviously they won’t look fully original but that is a minor consideration against reliability and more accurate operation of new v old worn components! So there has always been this available here .... http://sucarb.co.uk/pair-of-hs6-carburettors-for-a-datsun-240z-260z-conversion-set.html I’m guessing he’s done a deal with Burlen to make them for him and the 60 days isn’t shipping but rather manufacturing time. Again no bad thing as Burlen have a stunning reputation here in the UK.

Well as an AstraZeneca human lab rat, I had nausea within 6 hours, 40.5 degree c temp for 8 hours, headaches and cold shivers the next day, achy body and low energy for a couple of days (one day I slept 16 hours!) oh and I had gained an extra two inches where it mattered!!! Although the latter appears to have gone into remission - I suspect it was the hallucinations. :p And then there was this ... ... which happened on the way to the vaccination centre at 25mph, locking up my rear wheel! Should have taken the Z!! One fractured elbow and the mother of all road rashes later, I got there and had a lot of attention at the centre + an easy decision as to which arm to jab! Strange thing though, laying in the middle of the road totally tangled up in the bike frame, the 3 cars following, simply drove around me. Not one wound a window down or stopped to offer assistance or check on me. But at least they slowed down to drive around the fresh roadkill. The fourth car saw me on my feet and slowed enough to get a good look at the blood dripping and to pull an “ohhhh I bet that smarts” face before speeding up again. If any had stopped, I would have just said thanks and that I was OK. But what if I really wasn’t? Call me old fashioned, but I personally would have stopped to check on the roadkill to at least put it out of its misery :p . I guess it’s just a simple example of our “general” society’s attitude to others and my inability to accept people can really care so little for others. I still refuse to believe it and can only imagine they had to get to a very urgent appointment or something.

I like the idea of brand new carbs but the main concern as you have no doubt considered is the quality and finish - how good or reliable will they be in the long term v ZT? The 60 days shipping tends to suggest a Chinese factory involved - is that a correct assumption? The other way to look at it is you buy these new items and in a year or two they start playing up / leaking, can you go back to them? What sort of warranty do they have? I utterly love my ZT carbs and what I particularly like is the fact that they are original high quality items with better than new spindle shaft bearings. Not withstanding the sensational post sales support. If I was buying brand new, I would buy HS6 carbs - again, known manufacturing origin (UK), support and quality. I think I just talked myself out of the new carbs in your link!! ;) But equally I’m glad people are starting to remake NLA items.

And speaking with my buddy in India the other day, it appears it does - his young children are both down with it, hard! :(

For a moment there I was sure you were about to follow up with something else!!! :o Glad you got jabbed. How’s the phone coverage doing now?

That makes even more sense! Ty! My plugs have always been free floating then! ;)

I’ve heard good things about the Mishimoto ones, also@Jonbill has had good experience with this one ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Champion-Cooling-4-Row-All-Aluminum-Radiator-MC110-240Z-260Z-/152034797300?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 However, if you want to keep your engine bay looking “classic” I would go with Mr Racer X’s advice and consider the 3 row ones from MSA ... https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15d/16-7001 Don’t forget there are small variations in the outlet hose arrangement between S30 cars, so make sure you get the correct one for yours.

Not mine dude ;) got lucky I guess! Looking on the back of my European clusters, this blanking plate makes more sense!

And then, there is the DU6 Not without their challenges from what I’ve read. A company in the UK has started making them again though. Or this crazy set up on a V12 Jag ....

When you say that, do you get petrol smells coming out of the back? Like a flooded engine? Verified “Getting spark” on ALL 6? Also with someone else cranking and you with a timing light, can you verify what it’s set to? As for the Yugo, breaking down was a “design feature”! There was even a book written about them! The Yugo: The Rise and Fall of the Worst Car in History https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0809098954/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D1SHC3WCVCW8CX7HWZST

Not sure about S1 having it as standard but it it was meant to have one: look under your car, you will find 4 captive nuts at the bottom of your rad panel. The improve the aero and I found that on mine it improved cooling. Also if you get one beware that 250 ones are different from late 260/280. You have to Google this but someone in Europe I think started to reproduce them.

I asked this exact question the other day!!! Here’s the answer .... https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/260-280z-blanking-plates-purpose.28219/

Cant you leave it in the garage and duct the exhaust onto the driveway so that you are on the right side of the letter of the law? :p You have a Z at 20!? Man you’re a cool dude! When I was 20 I had a gold (yes gold!!) 1.1L Ford Fiesta Popular Plus (the plus made it go 50% faster in your mind) with not much more than 54hp and 63lbft out of the factory! So really more like 45 real HP! And 0-60 in 14.8 secs with a tail wind!! Would have killed to be able to get insured on a Z at that time! Our car insurance for sub 25 year olds is criminally expensive in the UK.

My neighbour’s wife too once came out in tears complaining about the fumes when I was tuning mine on the driveway. She was desperately concerned about the environment. I said nothing about her old Land Rover defender with a tractor engine spewing black smoke in the mornings Sometimes you just have to tune on the side of the road for the sake of peace! Following your progress with interest, you’re doing great. When I saw that butterfly, I was thinking you had to deal with that!

Ask any red blooded male, the triple DCOE carb look and sound is frankly pornography and a mating call!!!! However, bear in mind that DCOEs were designed for racing / high performance applications. They will flow great at the top but you will lose low / midrange torque on your stock engine - unless you choke them right down, which imho defeats the object of installing a high flowing carb. Diseasd said it perfectly. Much like adding too big an exhaust / header, you lose gas velocity low down where the mass of air is, relatively speaking, small but the DCOE choke area is the same regardless. Less air speed = less fuel atomisation. The SU is designed to keep the air velocity constant across the jet by constantly varying the choke area. This means you get better atomisation low down / mid range (think torque / drivability). The carb opens itself wide when you put the hammer down at high revs / high load conditions to give you flow. That’s why for a stock engine SUs work so well. Last dyno session on ZTherapy SUs (with custom needles) my modified L28 touched 245bhp @ 6400rpm (where the operator ran out of balls). On the road, she pulls hard to about 6700 rpm without losing enthusiasm! So yes, they can also produce good power if properly set up. I’m sure a set of DCOEs can give me a few more ponies at the top but the cost per BHP equation doesn’t make financial sense. A big advantage of DCOEs is of course the lovely mangoletsi intake manifold with near straight runners to the head - great for flow! But if performance is not the concern and your objective is sound and looks, then there is no substitute for that intake roar of triple DCOEs!!

Forgive me if I’m saying something obvious or that you have tried already. On mine, after the rear ended rebuild, I found a few of the half shaft nuts / bolts kept loosening themselves a little, causing vibrations. Have you checked the torque on those since your test drives? I had to go with thread-lock in the end to be certain they didn’t move again.

You know Mike, in some ways, I find these demos are the Darwinian course of life! Honestly, I am dumbfounded when I see things like this, in light of what is actually happening. I say let these people huddle, kiss, cuddle. Let them have a Bloody big orgy and catch the virus. They have no other way to understand the gravity of the situation. Having grown up in and through the over-throw of the Shah and the initiation of the Islamic republic of Iran, I tend to have a different perspective on life. We went from 5 channels to 2 - Islamic channel and war news channel, both equally as depressing. Music, banned. Chess / backgammon (the national pass time), banned! Comedy, banned. Men looking smart, banned. Women showing hair, banned. Alcohol, guess what, banned and so on. Any fraction of enjoyment was banned and punishable by lashes in the street. There were armed skirmishes in the streets at night - on the way to school we used to collect and compare bullet shells. 48 hour queues for fuel, 24 hours for bread, food rationing etc.Nightly bombings of our cities by Iraq with no end in sight. Now look at where “we” are today: there is an invisible enemy that doesn’t care about politics, race or social status. So we are asked for our own safety to stay in our safe comfortable homes with Netflix etc, internet and social order around us! We can walk freely with just a simple mask to protect us and others. We can have food delivered to our doors without any hardship or shortage. There is a vaccine being rolled out at lightening speed that marks the light at the end of the tunnel. Is there really that much to protest about? So what if you can’t drink your beer with your mates iINSIDE a pub for 18 months? The biggest suffering of my countrymen complaining about this situation is: having to wear a mask, socialising a little less, drinking at home or outside in a socially distanced manner for just a small “moment” of their entire lives! Yes it’s tough but at least we’re not in India or other places where it’s completely out of control with no end in sight! IMHO the British have genuinely nothing of import to protest about.

How about some of these to keep the “look” clean!? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-1-8-NPT-To-1-4-Barb-Adapter-Adaptor-Fitting-Aluminum-Alloy-Silver-/332753399792 I vexed over this one for many years as I too like the look and sound. However I discounted it on the basis of heat and performance loss due to sucking in hot air. Do yourself a favour and improve the heat shielding while you are at it. If your state allows it, pipe the crank case vent to a catch tank! That way you aren’t contaminating your intake charge or carbs with the crud / sulphurous juices that collect in mine! Also, not putting you off, this is a great read for info. You may wish to duct some cool air to them - I’m going to do the same experiment on mine once I get my arm out of the sling (quite a dramatic fall off the bicycle on the way to my Covid jab! Oh the irony ). “Recently I have been measuring under bonnet temperatures. My car is a 1985 V12 coupe with the cruise bellows removed, good aircon which is on all the time, and with the cooling system in top condition. Additionally it has a slot in the front bumper to admit air straight into the radiator stack, with the horns also moved out of the way. I have NO foam round the radiator and a separate transmission cooler. Therefore the airflow into my engine bay is far better than standard. I have recently purchased a digital measuring device that runs two channels to a unit in the car. One sensor is strapped to the rear of the engine just aft of the capstan, one to the front, just behind the aircon compressor, both are suspended in the air about 2 inches below the bonnet. These are the results so far at ambient 27 degrees C, aircon on, 12 inch aftermarket electric auxiliary fan on (replacing OEM auxiliary fan). Water temps remained stable and well below 90 C at all times in these tests: On the move above 40 MPH the front temp is about 56 C; the rear is about 52 C On the move below 40 MPH front temp rises to about 60 C and rear to about 56 C Once stopped, engine off, bonnet closed, both temps rise to 80 to 82 C immediately. These temperatures do NOT fall significantly after ONE HOUR if the bonnet stays closed. An open bonnet immediately reduces air temps to about 50 C. Even with the bonnet left open for an hour, air temps at the sensor are still 46 C On the move again temperatures drop to under 60 within a mile or two. If the main electric fan is manually switched on (it does not trigger on my car until a 90 C water pump inlet temp), temperatures drop slightly faster. At rest, aircon on, engine on, auxiliary and main electric fan on: At rest after a run, simulating a traffic hold up, front air temp climbs very fast to 70 - 72 C. Rear 4 C lower. Water temps remain stable, possibly dropping a touch. The extra air temp I attribute to the main fan pulling large volumes of air through the rad to keep the water temps stable, and thus extracting substantially more heat from the coolant, while air is not being extracted from the engine bay as well as it is when on the move. In fact, at rest air temps climb when the main fan is activated, though water temps fall. Conclusions: The front of the engine bay is normally hotter than the rear. The air temperatures under the bonnet on the move are, at about 60 C, not excessive. Therefore louvres are not necessary to preserve reasonable on the move under bonnet temperatures Cold air intakes are definitely worth it as they reduce intake temps to ambient (ie 33 C lower than under bonnet air temps). At rest, engine off, under bonnet temps rise very fast to a high, loom-cooking and rubber component-cooking level (80 to 83 C). Opening the bonnet after you stop WILL definitely substantially help preserve the wiring loom and all rubber components from heat damage. Louvres would greatly reduce under bonnet temps once the vehicle is stopped. I will repeat these tests when (if) we get a day with ambient temps over 30 C. I attached temperature strips to the oil sump, oil filter, oil cooler in, oil cooler out pipes and A bank cam cover at the front top. Oil temps showed a maximum of 85 C throughout the oil system, including the oil cooler inlet, except for the oil cooler outlet which was 77 C. My car has the bypass oil cooler system. From these temps I conclude that the bypass system does indeed cool the oil efficiently and that there is plenty of flow though it - if not the oil temps would not be the same as the sump and oil filter. The can cover temperature maximum showed 95C. All these temperatures are well within the oil's correct working temperature range (Shell Helix 100% synthetic 5W 40).”

There’s always “something” to be done on our cars!! :) @jonbill has had great success with speeduino on his car! It seems like a great bit of kit. I have to say, the AFR data will transform your tuning life and wreck your love love in equal measure! :p

Now this last point despite the hawk eyes above was the one thing that bothered me a LOT while reading your thread!

So chap, any news / progress? Intrigued to see what you’ve uncovered!

Thank you! It worked! But I don't have that option on tapatalk, only on internet! 😞