AK260

In an effort to reduce my low/mid range reversion issues, I added some 70mm ITG made velocity stacks / horns / trumpets (take your pick)! Strangely they aren’t as loud as the stock back plate with built in trumpets, but they sound deeper and the in-gear / midrange throttle response is noticeably keener. Can’t really tell any difference at the top-end. The car still sprints eagerly into the limiter @6.5krpm. The finish on them is pretty poor!! Having de-burred them for test fitting, I’m going to shine them up next on the inside for smooth laminar flow. I’m going to start playing with the exhaust system next to cure / reduce the reversion issues. I can still get the AFR on WOT in 3rd to hit 9.5:1 [emoji33] @ 3.3-3.6krpm !

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!

Well Mr Site, that is a heck of a lot of posts!! You need to drink out more often brother [emoji13]

If the rotor arm is still in there, I wonder if it goes into disco mode? [emoji848] Amazing eyes Zed Head!

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FWIW, I went S12W callipers and vented Peugeot 505 discs at the front, with mintex pads, but left the 7/8 MC in as I like to make one change at a time and learn about the difference that one change made. The net result is I have never been left wanting for stopping power on track days and spirited road driving. Never any fade. I actually really like the pedal action as it makes it even easier to heal and toe on downshifts. Having experienced it, I personally don’t think it’s worth the hassle to change out the MC, have to re-adjust the rod and/or change the booster. But it’s a case of personal preference. Disc specs ... EBC Part Code: D117 Peugeot 505 2.2 Turbo Year: 79-92 Bolt Holes: 4 Diameter: 273mm Height (Laid Flat): 43mm Thickness: (New/Min): 20/18mm UK cost £74 a pair. Ps. I had to grind 4mm off the fins on the callipers as my 14” wheels have some serious offset and would bind on them.

And the good news is Trump has committed to making sure everyone gets it for free!!! [emoji848]

ROFLMAO - I did wonder how someone as wise as you had made that suggestion! [emoji1787] I need to sleep more and regrow the sense of humour!

In my experience clunking when shifting is a diff mount insulator that’s past it’s best. Basically, the nose of the diff lifts when you accelerate, then when you cut the power with the clutch mid shift, the diff “falls” backdown and clunks if the rubber has let go or gone soft. On mine I found that it looked perfect but was completely dead when I took it off. The worst scenario I had a few times was changing up at 6.5k rpm and hearing a very LOUD BANG + feeling a momentary deceleration like touching the brakes - as the input flange kissed the ARB!!!!! [emoji33][emoji33][emoji33]

I’ve just written an essay on this in another thread (post 68) that says pretty much what the Captain is telling you above ... https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63901-delphi-mechanical-fuel-pump-stops-pumping-fuel/ Other factors are: TIMING: how much base timing do you have on your distributor? After my first and last service / tune up with a UK z specialist, I found that the base timing was set at 0 degrees!!! OK that is an extreme condition but it took quite a lot of cranking to start and proved the point on base timing!! With the 123 ignition distributor I now have 10 degrees base (adding 5 more at 800rpm) and she fires the instant the fuel arrives. In case you aren’t aware, base timing is the timing of the dizzy before any mechanical advance arrives (i.e. timing at idle, typically I have found 15-17 degrees is ideal). When the revs rise, the dizzy adds a total of 12-15 degrees mech advance to that figure, depending on which one you have. COMPRESSION: if you have a worn engine with low compression, it takes a while cranking to build heat in the cylinder. Have you performed a dry and wet compression test? Anything below 160psi is questionable - ideally you want over that figure. If your wet test PSI jumps up then you have worn rings/bores. A NICE HOT SPARK: do you have a decent coil with a decent distributor and decent HT leads? Are your plug gaps set appropriately? The hotter the coil, the more gap you can run so the bigger the spark (FYI, I run 1.2mm with a 1.5ohm flamethrower coil and 8mm HT leads). While HT leads can look OK, you’d be amazed the difference a new set makes to your engine’s responsiveness. Happy hunting!

I know we’ve gone off topic a little, however, permit me to add to the chorus .... I was going to fix this issue with a non-return valve, however, as my incredible mechanic of a father in law pointed out: if the engine has been standing for a while, there is a benefit to cranking for 10-20 seconds without it firing, as it gets the oil around first. On my engine, the oil pressure starts to rise on the gauge just before it fires. So I’ve stopped worrying about it when I crank and instead enjoy the thought of all that lovely oil covering the cam and the bores before the revs arrive. ;) If you use the original style filters, they have a simple and effective non-return built in, by having the vertical inlet pipe inside the filter housing higher than the normal height of the fuel in the filter. So it “shouldn’t” be drying out unless you live somewhere mega hot and / or have an air leak somewhere. Despite the fact that the float bowls and fuel lines have fuel in them, if there is air in the pipe work, the pumping action is just compressing the air and you’re not building sufficient fuel pressure as a result; until it’s blown out of the return line’s restrictive orifice on the fuel rail and the float bowls (depending on where the air is). I would imagine that when standing, the floats in the bowls aren’t fully closed and over time, air is very slowly sucked through them back into the fuel rails. After stopping the car, heat soak will warm up the float bowls and the pressure from the fuel vapours will blow some fuel out of the bowls through the jets, or indeed evaporate through the jets, thus marginally reducing the volume of fuel and the floats dropping. Remember, when the engine is off, the jets are still somewhat open. The fuel then cools, the floats drop further and hey presto, you have a way for air to enter the feed lines. Notwithstanding of course that the fuel in the rails also heats, pushes through the return line, then cools and sucks air from anywhere it can. So in short, even with a return valve you’re not totally going to fix this issue and frankly, it’s a benefit in getting the oil going after a long period of standing; replacing what gravity and heat soak took off the areas it needs to be, before the straight 6 warbles into life! Finally, under pain of death don’t EVER plumb this into the cabin!! There are very good reasons why fuel lines are not routed inside the cabin. The last thing you need is to be the meat in a car-b-q with its own fuel source, or should that be sauce? Dad joke alert!!!!! Essay over - Less of a chorus, more of a bohemian rhapsody I fear! ;)

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

It has to be worth that in parts alone, surely?

Yes! Best thing I ever did to my Z! I simply threw them on, added oil, balanced them and they worked perfectly from the off. Of course you may wish to tune them to your engine by using the mix / idle screws etc but there was no issue setting them up. They have gone up in price since I bought mine 7 years ago. IMHO it’s lovely to have triples (and that sound!!!!!) but most stock or mild L-series engines running them, are over carbed. The SUs are easy to tune, easy to service and provide much better real world low to mid range drivability for a non-modified / lightly modified engine. 7 years on I’m using mine on a very modified L28 and producing over 240bhp, so yeah, they do flow! ;)

Don’t even!!!! What you are doing is widening or narrowing the annulus area of the jet by doing that and using different parts of the needle. Do it right and do it once! Otherwise you will waste a lot of time chasing your tail. Ask me how I know. The float adjustment being right is mega important on these carbs.

Unless of course someone wants to bump him off - in which case what a perfectly believable scenario! ;) No need for a magic bullet to have to defy the laws of physics.

Maybe the mistake was testing the president or anyone of those guys. No test no cases, right?

Well done chap! That must be very satisfying. Good luck with spindle pin - I’ve read they are a breeze [emoji2957][emoji13]

Unless others correct me, I don’t believe there is standardisation as all performance headers are made with different primary and collector lengths / config to suit their own systems. I strongly suspect you will end up with some custom work there. The other thing to consider is that the secondary configuration, size of resonator / position along the line was designed for the header to work well with and will be all messed up if you mix and match. IMHO it’s better to buy the whole system that is designed to work well together unless of course you fully understand the equations related to exhaust length and girth at different parts and can custom make parts. Some good reading here if you have the time and patience to read it all (it’s long!) ... https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/exhaust-system-performance-math/ Personally, I would cut losses, eBay the SG and put it down to experience. Especially given than yours is unused, it will be desirable to many RHD owners and you should get much of your money back. Ps. One last thought: PM Sean Dezeart who makes exhausts and may be better able to advise you.

Crumbs! That is a salty pill to swallow, sorry to hear. Did you give feedback to spirit garage with photos? I can’t imagine you’re the first or only person to fall foul of that. I was very tempted by the fujitsubo system but a word of caution - if you have a later car like mine with an R200 diff, then the twin pipes will not have the second notch in the diff crossmember for one of the pipes and you will need to grind off a corner of the R200. Also I understand that some bending of the pipes is required at the back. Now this last bit about pipe bending and grinding your diff is what I ascertained 2-3 years ago, but things may have moved on since. However, it’s worth double checking to go in with eyes open. If you have an earlier S30 with an R180, then ignore what I said and party on!! It’s a beautiful bit of kit!!!!!!

Spot on Zedhead [emoji1317][emoji106][emoji106] I was hyper paranoid about clean surfaces where the outer races went home and you just explained it perfectly!!

With engine off and clutch down: Try going into second (and push hard home) then try getting into 1st. If it works: try again with engine running. If not working at all: S14a time!! [emoji12]

What a great question! It stops moving when you thwack a big socket on the back of it ;) If you are paranoid about it, you can always trim the first 1-2 mm off the grease seal with a sharp blade as it is very soft and as far as I could see wasn’t doing a great deal! I did this on the second side I did.

Bloomin eck! Now you are scaring me! [emoji33][emoji33][emoji15]