AK260

I do exactly that for exactly those reasons! When away from home, in addition to electronic immobilisation, it’s wheel clamped. I also take the wheel clamp in the boot to use at overnight stay events. But even in that situation, if they want it, they will lift it off the ground or bring a battery powered angle grinder / power drill and drill out the lock. All you can do is delay them or make it difficult. Case in point as mentioned, modern cars!

LOLILOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!! I’m amazed how you managed to list my exact thoughts! [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] Brilliant!

Thanks for that explanation Jeff! [emoji106] Every day is a school day!

Wow, I take my hat off to you sir! That’s proper analysis!! [emoji106] I really don’t know the full details as I simply bought them from a (now retired) UK club trader as a kit, complete with the S12W callipers and pads. This side of the pond, it’s a time honoured package with, as you say, just the machining of the centre hole required for 77-78 models. But I believe the hub config is different on the earlier models and needed some spacer arrangement. Having said all that, thank you for the detailed comparison!! It will be useful to others in the future potentially weighing up the two options. I will have to take pictures next time I have the wheels off. As a matter of interest, what year / model is your car? I am assuming 78 given your call sign! If 78 then I wonder if the hubs on a late 280 are different to a late 260!? [emoji848]

Interesting to see you have a spacer in there - what car do you have? On my ‘77 UK 260z which I think equates to a 280z set up in this regard, I use the vented Peugeot 505 discs which fit perfectly without a spacer but do need to have the centre hole machined out a little to fit the hub centre. One way or another there is faffing about involved :p EBC part number D117 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-Replacement-Front-Vented-Brake-Discs-for-Peugeot-505-2-2-Turbo-79-92-/122933285926

I think the OP is referring to the one under the cowl where the air comes in from.

Most welcome. What you quoted is the correct recommended factory standard (cold) and it’s good to go with that. I set mine cold at: Intake: 0.15 mm (0.006”) Exhaust: 0.2 mm (0.008”) It’s good practice to also check head bolts torque at the same time: the FSM quotes 51-61lbft or 7.0-8.5kgm. I recommend setting your torque wrench to the lower number to avoid over-tightening.

Let me be the first to be controversial and I know this isn’t the question you asked: I fundamentally disagree with doing them hot! Reason? Can you keep the engine temp constant at “hot” over the 30-60 mins it takes to do the job? But cold is not going to fluctuate. My personal experience has been that by the time I finish and go back to cyl 1 to double check, the clearances have changed! ;) So for a rookie like me, I like doing them cold. Secondly, this web page I LOVE: https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/l28.html I do mine a fraction tighter than spec but let me not elaborate with an essay as to why.

A very sad day indeed. I will pray for them with you. Was anyone killed in the tower 7 collapse on the same day?

Couldn’t agree more! My spare Beru cap I bought with the 123 purchase arrived with the centre electrode broken off!!! 123 charged me £45 for the worthless spare cap!! The one that it came fitted with, fell off while driving and very nearly stranded me in a dark fast road without a safe place to pull over :o . I eventually got it started on the battery’s last Joul and limped home to find the electrode sitting next to the aluminium ring inside the dizzy! I was very lucky it didn’t kill the mechanism inside!

Got a better photo of the whole thing? But ewwww! That isn’t a pretty sight! [emoji51][emoji33]

Excellent work! Well done you! Glad the thread came in handy. Enjoy the fridge!! I’ve been spending my Z time fixing a dishwasher :p

Nice work!![emoji106][emoji106] No back plate?

This is interesting because after 18 months of not getting close to anyone I feel awkward when people start bumping into me at queues etc. Also some of the kids at my children’s school have developed anxieties about being among large crowds! Amazing how plastic the mind can be, but conversely, it can change back the same way. It is funny though how she couldn’t see the logic of sitting next to someone they are queuing with! :p As for the changing of minds comment above, again there is a spectrum. People generally look for facts to reenforce their opinions and ignore those that challenge or contradict them. Then throw in some “alternative facts” (thank you Kellyanne for that phrase) on both sides of the extreme and people point only to those to say “See!? I told you!” Then there is the utterly off the wall behaviours / beliefs that can’t but leave you wondering .... The anti-vax movement haven’t helped themselves with some illogical arguments and equally nor have some officials like Fauci who flip flopped on masks at the outset. But then nothing is black and white and when you are exploring / discovering new something you have to change your thinking whichever side you sit on. I always enjoy a good debate as I like to see alternative views to mine but more often on social media people just start name calling and get more entrenched. Sure we’re all here for Z cars but I’m glad this thread exists as it’s topical and it’s always nice to get to know the minds of the people we interact with and how they think outside of cars: ergo the Saturday night music or the meme threads etc. The boobs thread is definitely not my cup of tea, but it’s easy to ignore it as suggested above and choose not to take offence - now I am wondering when the “original hunks” or “original six packs” thread is being launched!? [emoji848]

You know, in the news outlets there are shades of truth like shades of grey! I used to read the FT (at the top of the curve) daily but recently cancelled my subscription. Why? Because I saw the most intelligently well thought out, biased and disingenuous reporting of a case I was very close to. They blatantly twisted / misrepresented facts in isolation to build a story and to suit their narrative; and in the process assassinated the character of someone I know personally. Fortunately he was strung up into a public hearing and got the opportunity to set the record straight on TV. The FT reporting made me realise just how so called respected media can also misrepresent facts to play out their own exciting / crowd pleasing stories as distinct from the boring truth that doesn’t sell papers / subs in quite the same way. So where does that leave us? Well I think one should read many sources (as you say reliable ones) and use one’s own logic, intellect and common sense to decipher facts from sensationalism, politics, personal / corporate agendas etc. Coming off soap box now - mic drop!

Good advice above. I had to do that to fit my 14” rims and took off a full 5mm off the fins. The way I figure it is that those callipers were designed to stop a two tonne truck and my Z will never stress them enough to need the fins.

I didn't but salt is a genius idea!

It depends on how much time and enthusiasm you have! I bought all the bits and did my own in lockdown. I did every single line except for one and it cost me less than £100 including tools. Copper (which is what was on the car) is an absolute no no as it “work hardens” and goes brittle / cracks over time. I believe it’s illegal to use on brake lines in many countries for that reason. You can use stainless steel tubing which is really tough to bend but I went with cupronickel which is also tough to bend but easier and doesn’t have the above issues.. There are cheaper flaring tools but the one below gives the cleanest finish / flares. AB Tools Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Professional In-situ 3/16" SAE Hand Held FL29 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M4RC2YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1BN1QE78QNG5KNVBV53S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Sealey CNP316 Brake Pipe Seamless Tube Cupro-Nickel 22 Gauge 3/16" x 25ft BS EN 12449 CW024A https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01H0966GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0DVE4HSMJB88JKBNNCFZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Pearl PBU437 M10 Male Brake Pipe Union PP54 (50 Pieces) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006HFM5FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NQT8ZYZ3ZNMYFPK3GA5Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Pipe bender https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUMBERS-180-3-in-1-MINI-PIPE-BENDER-FOR-6mm-8mm-10mm-COPPER-TUBE-PLUMBING-/333710612614 Amazon prices are higher than other places but it gives you a sense of what you need. I used the pipe bender and various sockets / tins of paint to get the radii I needed. This is a very satisfying job to do.

I tried but the iPhone night vision wasn’t up to the job!

I tried but the iPhone night vision wasn’t up to the job!

Absolutely love this!! I did a similar thing with mine and also used a water mist spray. I did get some very odd looks standing on the side of a dark road spraying my engine with a plant mist spray! :p But I did discover my coil arcing onto itself!! It did it rarely and randomly without encouragement and very clear /regularly with the mist spray. This is a great test to do - why didn’t I think of recommending it! Way to go Zed Head!

From the photos I wouldn’t say your wires have “gone bad” as such - it looks like they have put some kind of sealant between the boot and the cable to prevent moisture ingress. The sealant coming off should not cause a misfire. The way to tell if your leads are bad is to get a multi-meter set on resistance test. Then connect both ends of the leads onto the probes and hold them securely in place with your fingers. First measure the resistance which should be in the order of kilo ohms 10k-20k ohms per metre if they are carbon wires - it will be a different reading for each lead as the resistivity is related to the length of the lead and each one is a different length. Then when you are satisfied that you don’t have a lead with a total break in it, while holding the probes onto each end, “wiggle” each lead and see if the resistance changes dramatically. I had some Magnecore KV85 cables that went bad and two of them would go to mega ohms as I wiggled them. I also had symptoms like bucking and backfiring / popping when I went onto the accelerator pedal, as there was unburnt fuel hitting the end of the tail pipe. Is your “missing” random or rhythmical? Now to throw a spanner in the works, often time a vacuum leak can manifest symptoms that seem like an electrical issue and cause random missing. This only manifests itself at idle : part throttle conditions when manifold vacuum is high but the car runs like a dream at WOT! Once you have exhausted possibilities of electrics (or even during your troubleshooting), check your intake for any leaks (gaskets, bad hoses, etc).

Thanks for sharing that. I was looking for problems on 4 but you compressions are very consistent across the cyls. What I find intriguing though is that they all seem rather low. I was expecting over 150, below 200! It could just be the gauge that is at fault but what is important is that your cyl 4 isn’t low compared with the rest. So, are you still having issues or has it improved since you did the seals?

Thank you sir. Hope your friend gets better soon too. I wonder if he is feeling silly for not having done it and trying to save face? As you say, best stay out of a marital dispute.

Yes sirreee! That’s about the long and short of it! And yes it was the delta variant. However, a week on and I feel a lot better, if only a little weak at times and need to take it easy. Being desperate to be in the fresh air, I did an oil change on the Q5 to force myself out - which was fine at the time but I paid for it within an hour as I had drained all the energy! Very weird for me as I normally exhaust people with my energy and pack way too much into any day. I am told it would have been a lot worse without the vax[emoji382]especially as I get asthma whenever I have flu. So far, it’s just been an intermittent cough without a tight chest. Something to be grateful for!