AK260

Exactly what I thought !! I guess being Maserati it is pretty much a Fezza engine! Looks amazing - I love the fact that the engine sits perfectly behind the front axle! That can only be a good thing for handling!! Very S2000-esque FMC configuration. It’s a RHD I noticed - so where in the world are you? Good luck with your recovery chap and looking forward to tracking your progress!

Lemme try again without autocorrect jumble: Not sure how it’s secured but if it’s a 22mm pipe then it’s easy to fabricate exactly the routing required with some plumbing supplies! [emoji106]

@ownallday - you’re most welcome. Keep this thread up to date so that we can see how you got on. On my brother in law’s TR6, being push rod, the cam cover breather is like a steam train chuffing away and it made me cough when I had it unplugged. Now if a car ever benefits from a catch tank it’s that one!!!! I’m surprised you’re getting large blow-by from the top of the engine. I’ve found on mine the engine block breather is normally the one with more output. And I have pretty good rings with 205psi dynamic compression. One tip, I used 15mm copper pipe inside the I think it was 16 or 17mm hose from the cam cover breather to make sure it stays in the shape I want and doesn’t crush around the bends when it heats up. It was a female dog to get in even with silicone lubricant so you can always try 10mm copper pipe. The key thing is to ensure it doesn’t crush on the bends or change shape and foul itself against other engine bay parts. Another trick (if you’re not bothered about the exact shape / routing of the pipe) which I have used to GREAT effect on the fuel tank breather that does the crazy 180° turn is to place a 15mm pipe bender spring permanently in situ inside the 16mm hose - it will never crush!! 15mm Internal Pipe Bending Spring https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NW4NJAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V3G163TST9N5H9N8MJEQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 @Dutchyhawkeye - glad to be of service sir! [emoji12]

You were lucky to avoid that wall mon mon'ami!!!!! 😮 Does sound awesome. The gearchanges are quick - what 'box do you have in there?

Ps. In fact, this is pretty identical to what I have - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182121157542?hash=item2a674453a6:g:WnEAAOSw3mpXLGeB I like the sight tube as I can tell how full it is. Normally it gets a 1/3 full after say 2-3K miles of fast roading.

Thank you sir. The catch tank has two inputs (one from the crank case and one from the valve cover). The output is on top where the filter is. But unlike adding a filter to the actual engine block breather, the oil / vapour particles hit the tubing and the tank first before trying to come out of the vertical exit (i.e. the filter) so it doesn't create a mist under the bonnet. Have a look at this - its pretty close to what I have. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173727362404

Thank you sir - the wiring has been cleaned up further since then 😛. That's a great catch tank! Well Mr. Dutchie Hawkeye, you're spot on with that cable being in the wrong place under normal circumstances. BUT, the dizzy shaft is perfect. The 123 Ignition has a slightly strange config and you may not have seen on one of my recent posts where I mentioned this strange thing and how I blew up my muffler by having the timing something like 270-280 degrees out - by not looking at the rotor and wiring up the cap as you imagine it should be! On the 280zx dizzy the rotor would point to the rad panel at TDC. 123's points to the fender, hence what you're seeing.

Sorry to hear that! Must have been very scary!!! Glad the car is fine. I hate those filter type things as they invariably get “wet”. Here’s a photo of my set up (except I now run an airbox). If you look bottom left you will see my catch can. It’s a 0.3l cheap eBay one with two inputs and one output. The best catch cans (unlike mine) are baffled. The top of that filter can sometimes smell eggy - you can always route a pipe away from the top to somewhere in the engine bay where it doesn’t matter. Also note the home made heat shield that works amazingly in keeping the carbs cool and diverting any fuel leakage / spit back away from the hottest part of the exhaust manifold.

At least it starts with a Z! :p

You have a PM.

On mine, the serrated washers were missing their teeth completely as they had been washed off with British weather over 40+ years. The moustache bar used to clonk going over bumps or undulations in the road when accelerating. As they are NLA, I used some 9mm and 3mm washers (60mm OD, 24mm ID -22mm if you want a very tight self centring fit) to make my own version. NEVER a clunk since and I’ve been pushing very hard. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-pick-own-size-Solid-Neoprene-Rubber-Washer-Washers-3mm-thk-upto-60mm-dia-/262163888110 I think the engineers put them there for a very good reason. Ps. Great work - looks incredible under there - now you will fear puddles!!! [emoji1787]

Liking the grannyknot link and added to favourites! This is the other one I use which also gives the same info on a different way https://tiresize.com/calculator/

My only other thought in addition to what has been suggested is: have you checked the torque / tightness of your carb to manifold nuts, manifold to head nuts etc? Sometimes you can get a vac leak at idle which results in a higher idle than when it heats up and things expand / get tighter. I wonder if any of those gaskets may have been loosely sealing previous and have been disturbed by the air-box going on and off, due to a nut or two not being fully tight?

Great suggestion - but it doesn’t seem to do much over 50mph!

Wow dude! You forgot the candles!!!! That’s some alternative to cake !!! Happy birthday big man.

Just been out for a blast in mine and being 27°c with 85% humidity @22:00, I had the windows down, listening to the warble of the L28. Two things happened: 1. I had knocked off the rubber hatch seal and was sucking fumes - so now I feel light headed and have a head ache. Definitely worth getting it sorted, well done you! [emoji106] 2. My ears are ringing like I’ve been to a rock concern!! (And I still have the quietest of all, “Street muffler” on the car!)

Me too!! The only difference is I went for a 2+2 turbo exedy clutch to hold the extra torque. Absolutely love the effect of the fidanza!

To put your mind at rest, when cold, mine starts over 3/4 across when reversing out of the drive way and normal driving. When it warms up, it sits near a half cruising and over half thrashing it. At idle it can go below 1/4. The oil itself does flow better and therefore less pressure when heated. So in some ways, the drop in the gauge is what I use (in the absence of an oil temp gauge) to know the engine / oil has reached full working temp. I needed a change of underwear when running the engine in as the oil pressure went to zero while doing 70mph. I shut it off and pulled over VERY quickly - only to discover that the connector on the sender was clicking on, but was loose and had corrosion inside of it. Cleaned it up and bent it back into a shape that made it stay in contact, it’s been flawless since. Before looking at the wiring, I did exactly what has been suggested - I took the oil filler cap off and started the car to observe oil sloshing around the inside of the cam cover. Don’t panic, we’ve all been there - but you’re wise to question it and do the checks also.

Amen! The supermarket ramp can be tough to navigate you know! :p

Most welcome. As you and Mr@patcon say, it does take a lot of nerve on both sides! Just shows how utterly confident that driver is. This is another video of the day, this time a lot slower but very impressive what the car can do - I was trying to relate what it must have felt like inside the car at the top, to my own experiences. All I could come up with was a roller coaster, before it goes for it!

Went down to the Goodwood festival of speed yesterday. The Z got a HUGE lot of attention anywhere and everywhere. Sadly on the hill climb race with vehicles ranging from a 1906 car with 60bhp to 80s and 90s F1 cars to the R32 drift car, there was a rather sizeable crash of a Chevy NASCAR. So to entertain us while picking up the pieces, out came the naughty Jaguar. But this!! This for me was a cherry on the Jag’s cake - such incredible car control ... and self restraint by the marshals!

Forget the muffler - I love that V8 sound!!! [emoji7]

And if it’s done that then it’s time for a new one! ;) I’m with Zedhead - my initial thought too was timing marks are off.

The no.1 on the cap did not correspond with the position of the rotor. I didn’t check, I just trusted!! So when I put the leads back on the timing was somewhere between 270-290 degrees BTDC. She was struggling to start, so I gave her full choke, full throttle and ....... booooom! The charge was compressed (read heated) but not lit, the exhaust valve opened and as the charge was being pushed out, it got a spark!!!! As it hit the muffler expansion area, it found even more oxygen. 4 neighbours rushed out to check if I was OK, promptly followed by my wife rushing out of the house to tell me off for making too much noise! Now that’s the essence of true love and a solid marriage. I discovered weeks later that neighbours down the road, whom weren’t aware of my car antics, were still debating who had set off a shot gun in the road! :D Ps. The engine was just fine and if you saw my recent exhaust muffler test videos you can see she’s still singing lovely 5 years later! ;)

You’ll enjoy the flexibility and the ability to immobilise yourself z via Bluetooth ! Much like removing the rotor in the old days! Just triple check the HT lead positions on the cap before starting up for the first time to avoid this .... .... baaaada boom!!!