AK260

An analogue geek in a digital world!

Brilliant!

I read somewhere that it speeds up the reaction. Interesting thing was that the garage / the solution smelled like sulphuric acid after the 12 hour soak. But I’m no chemist. I reused the solution many times over and it worked well ... Before this, I wasted way too much time with a wire wheel and drill achieving lesser results! OK I’m gonna shut up now, I feel like I’m thread jacking!

This is great! Just to offer an alternative: I was frankly amazed how good this experiment went. I bought 6 bottles of the cheapest / nastiest bottled lemon juice off the supermarket shelf. Poured into an old ice creme tub and added lots of salt - no scientific measurement, just what felt right. If I had to quantity I would say 2 table spoons. Degreased parts with thinners, then left them in the lemon juice and salt tub for 12 hours overnight. See for yourself:

Prepare to become a geek CO! ;)

Prepare to become a geek CO! ;)

What I’ve read suggests we shouldn’t use diesel oils as the formulation is for a different environment and soot content etc. I guess any modern motor oil is better than what was available when out cars were born, but the question I would ask is do you know if it has ZDDP? In fact there is a debate raging in classic car circles about do you really need ZDDP as modern oils cling so much better and have good sheer resistance. I’m not sure I know enough to have an opinion though.

So JB, just been out thrashing the Z (it’s like spring here today!) and when I got home, I pointed the thermometer at the oil filter. Black bits of the k&n filter at 87c Silver fins of the heatsink at 77c (measured in various places) Outside temp is 11 degrees and sunny! I kept measuring as it cooled and the heat sink is consistently about 10c below the filter housing. So I guess it must be dissipating “some” heat. As a matter of interest the top of the radiator was showing 90c. Temp gauge inside the car was sitting “just” to the right of middle! So it could yet be accurate ;) !!

So, Mr CO, did it ever arrive?

At a brilliant price of 75Euros, I think this is a bargain if you are looking for some reproductions! I asked and they are going to make the 260/280 ones next. https://www.mobilgaz.net/wp/product/datsun-240z-gauge-face-full-kit/

Sorry to hear that :( this thing is very real and unpleasant. To your point about the sniper: The school in which my sister is a teacher had a case in a class unrelated to her and on the other side of the premises. Both my sister and brother in law have been completely out of action for two weeks, coughing like they have been riding a steam train through a tunnel and no sense of taste / smell. The entire school has had to start home schooling. The thing that is a quite interesting but also a little disconcerting is - they both had the track and trace mobile phone app which means anyone who has been within Bluetooth range (I.e. working 10 metres) of them in the super market, on the pavement etc, would have received a notification to say they were in the vicinity of a carrier and have to self isolate / get a test. Clever tech but it’s net is cast too widely!

It’s a tilting scissor lift made by CJ Autos in the UK ... https://cjautosheywood.co.uk/product/3in1-tilting-adjustable-car-lift-1-5-ton-cl01/ I haven’t needed to get it to max lift yet, but once at 75% and tilted, I can happily sit upright under the car and work. The see-saw feature was particularly useful (and equally worrisome) when I was working on all the brakes and fitting the full exhaust system. The only thing it won’t be good for is a transmission removal. While I will never use it on anything other than the Z, if you keep two wheels on the ground, you can lift a car heavier than 1.5 tonnes.

came across this three years ago .... Hope one of you fellas bought it! I opted for a new engine instead ;)

And then there is this ... The lift was £450 and the best thing I’ve ever owned for working on the car! ;) On removing the suspension thing, I found that doing it on my own, it was easiest undoing the bushes first, then taking off the strut nuts while you support the weight. But putting it back was easiest with putting the brackets / bushes on first then lifting the strut top into place. But if you can get someone else to help, then your world will be a nicer place! ;)

Reminded me of this - not sure why! But this guy cracked me up!

You may have a break before the fusible link, unplug the battery terminals and check continuity / resistance from the alternator, to fusible links and any junctions along the way to battery cables. You should find resistance of around 0.1-0.3 ohms depending on the state of your wiring. Also the connections tend to corrode and cause huge resistance (huge being a relative concept here). The voltage regulator at the alternator wouldn’t be holding 15v if the battery was getting charge. I strongly suspect the 8v you see at the fusible link is from the battery and not the alternator. It’s not a complicated circuit, so I’m confident you will find the issue with a little bit of tracing.

Got my test results today! I’m clear, phew!!

Loving the pipe idea! Simple fix / experiment! Will defo update the final dimensions and angles. Basically, it’s exactly what you said - it’s something I made with a vice, a bloody big hammer, a drill and tap and die set. Oh and a bit of paint! There is a 1-2mm gap between the diff and the snubber but it doesn’t show in the pic. There is no discernible whine from the diff but on full throttle I do notice a little more gear noise if I really try to hear it. There is the option of using a Mini’s rubber suspension bump stop if noise is a concern. On two very rare occasions a big clonk was heard while hammering it and changing up - here is my hypothesis: - The insulator is brand new Nissan, so I like to think it’s a good ‘un and not the issue. - The diff is lifting under load as it should and the diff mount insulator rubber is not being allowed to expand as much as it could / should. So in effect, the AK Mount is storing the energy and returning it to the diff when I change gear at 6.5k rpm, causing the metal parts of the mount to come into contact with each other. With the modified engine and the R200 3.9, there is c. 70% more torque hitting the wheels / diff mount insulator than stock. So there is a heck of a lot of energy being stored and released which the stock diff mount insulator wasn’t designed for. - Solution? Stick a bit of rubber pipe in the middle of the diff mount insulator and see if it ever happens again !! How on earth did you figure out my middle initial! Genius! ;) My pin code is next Mr[mention=2635]Zedhead[/mention]! I apologise to the OP if I’ve taken the thread somewhat off track.

I made my own, I call it the AK Mount ;) If you are interested in doing the same I will update the thread with the final design of the one in the pics above. The original design was meant to work with the strap. The final one was much stronger and replace all that strap business ;) https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/the-%E2%80%9Cak%E2%80%9D-mount.27293/

And then gents, there is this .... If only we had original molds available for the S30 world!

Fair point - how about this for comparing LED v Old skool .... I utterly love this idea and will copy you!!! [emoji106]

Intelligence has its limits, but stupidity knows no bounds! I am staggered that people complain about the simple act of wearing a mask or just being careful in public. Ironically, quite a few people who marched against wearing masks in the UK, managed to contract C19 at the marches! One such protester I actually know in person. She’s been very ill and finally realised why simple precautions save lives. Let’s see if she finally dons a mask in public. On another note, speaking with the other parents at the school gates yesterday, we were saying how interesting it was that this year we haven’t had the normal level of colds and flu among the kids (or even the adults). Could the C19 precautions on hygiene be contributing?

Funny you should say that, my father in law’s TR4A and Volvo 123 Amazon are both relayed up and the light output with the 25% brighter bulbs is really quite impressive / plenty good enough. So I can see the Z lights working well if relayed. Even though I run LEDs and will likely never go back, I have to admit that on a classic car, the warmer light of the incandescents “looks” better / far more age appropriate - but that statement is only valid if you can actually see the road well enough. ;) My philosophy for any improvement to the car is always a case of safety / driving experience first, originality second but the car has to “appear” as stock as possible where possible, until of course you give it the beans. But to the OP’s original question, while the car’s own wiring is man enough to power the headlights, you can’t beat new wiring and connections through relays or the protection they offer for your stalk connectors.

[Europe is way ahead of the USA on public transportation,] Let’s not include the UK in that statement!! ;) Our public transport system, despite the small distances utterly sucks!!! Germany, France etc had to totally rebuild their infrastructure after WW2. We here carried on evolving steam train era systems and mentality! Also their governments have had better focus / strategies for public transport beyond just making money off it. One of the things I love about France / Germany is how some of their intercity rail follows their motorways. You make a great point about the future and how many if not most people won’t drive cars + the rest of us nutters will need special licenses / permission to drive! One day we may even look back and wonder at the folly of letting humans operate such dangerous machines while smoking, talking, being tired etc! In the future, Classic car drivers will all become Will Smith in iRobot. It in the near term, I totally see a world where freight is self driving until it reaches a city where a driver can do the complicated bits.

That is a brilliant perspective! Love it. I had similar thoughts driving the other evening and thinking that along the same lines of in a couple of generations, people will want modified classics over original. For the reason that they’ve known the cars through the PlayStation and may find the stock experience rather dull in comparison.