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Everything posted by AK260
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Firstly, rest assured that we’ve all done something like that. When I did it, I just popped it all back in again without issue. Are you sure something isn’t in the way in there?
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Sorry to see this, but if any consolation we’ve all been there with one bolt or another. File / grind flat with a dreamt if access is tight, mark centre as best as you can. Start with a drill 3 sizes down - ideally a reverse action drill set. This is what I use to good effect ... https://www.drillallsales.com/product-page/left-handed-reverse-action-drill-bits The heat from the drilling and some self penetrating oil, I have found releases the thread and it unscrews itself on the drill bit. But failing that you may get to one size down and use a tap and die set. On the tap I find, the thread usually comes out. Good luck!
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This says it perfectly!!! It’s a desirable car but it lacks the drama of the post I’m quoting below. I do like it but it’s like the sensible choice of a good looking sports car.m at the front. Now this would make me lust after one.
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Well done you! [emoji106][emoji106] If it turns freely, aren’t you just a little bit tempted to just throw it in and take a chance? These are very hardy engines. And yes I know, I know - I said rebuild it! [emoji13] BTW get an engine stand and take off the oil pan to inspect the state of the muck etc in there and look for any metallic particles. Ps. We love photos!!!
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Or makes some yourself at a fraction of the cost!! ;) I didn’t have to remake mine due to the new cylinders, I did as the PO had used copper! These are cupronickel. It took under an hour to make and that was mostly me being numb and making them wrong to start with! ;) 25ft pipe £15 Pipe Flaring kit £14 Pipe bender I already had £10 50 x brake line fittings £10 Also remade all the copper brake lines at the front of the car too, saved a small fortune and have safe brakes again! [emoji12]
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Observation - Google, Youtube, the omniscient...
AK260 replied to Zed Head's topic in Open Chit Chat
duplicated post - can’t delete it! :( -
Observation - Google, Youtube, the omniscient...
AK260 replied to Zed Head's topic in Open Chit Chat
You know what I find most interesting about that chap is that if you were old enough to have an email address in the early 2000s and someone said the government is monitoring emails, you would have laughed at them and put them in a certain bucket of people. -
You know, when you put those photos side by side, I totally see your point!!! :( You’ve ruined it fo me. [emoji12] I do like the rear and the hips though. They are definitely less bulbous than the 370’s and the rear lights are more 240. I was going to say that in the modern world of safety standards etc it’s difficult to produce cars close to the original, but then, they did achieve a great outcome with the Mustang or the Dodge Challenger etc. I do agree though that they should have come up with something a little more special for the 50th but of any modern Z, that’s the one I find the most attractive.
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Observation - Google, Youtube, the omniscient...
AK260 replied to Zed Head's topic in Open Chit Chat
What I find most disturbing is the fact that even with Siri off, my YouTube “suggested” videos match conversations that have ZERO with what I search for. My pregnant friend was asking about my wife’s experiences while walking with me and 10 mins later when I went onto the YouTube app the suggestions were related to the conversation. Has happened many many times!!! We are just in that world where you have to learn a new skill - to ignore and live with it without being bothered by it. On the PC, I found installing the Ghostery extension kills most adverts like the one in the middle of your words etc .... https://www.ghostery.com/ -
Observation - Google, Youtube, the omniscient...
AK260 replied to Zed Head's topic in Open Chit Chat
Use Tapatalk pro app - no adds here [emoji12] -
I just did this job on mine with RockAuto parts and they fitted without issue. What really baked my noodle was that the ones in the car were 15/16ths, yet the MSA ones are 3/4 and the RA ones are 7/8ths and/or 3/4. I could not for the life of me find 15/16ths made for the S30 but noticed that most made for other cars have the same shape and bike centres. I just went 7/8ths in the end. Make sure you end up with the correct type for your car. I had absolutely zero issues with fit while using the cheaper ones from RA though.
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My apologies if my comment came across wrong in anyway, I do admire the engineering prowess that has gone into creating this beautiful box though! It does look pretty special. So, are you running it without a filter hence the raw stacks comment?
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Everything he said [emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji106][emoji106] Unless there is a visible crack with water / oil seepage marks it’s virtually impossible to know without taking it apart and testing.
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Those beautiful and expensive DCOEs are being suffocated with that airbox. Even with my SUs on a modified engine, I can see the defects of / proven that the airbox is very restrictive. What@conedodger put up is the way forward IMHO. Combine that with some piping through the rad panel and a filter in front of the rad pulling in cold air and you should see a few more ponies too!
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Well chap, I don’t know about the local prices where you are and the going rate for all that kit, but if the tranny is 4 or 5 speed manual, they are going on eBay for around $400-$500. So all that lot for $750 sounds (to me at least) to be well priced. I would suggest any engine that has sat for 25 years should as a matter of good practice be rebuilt. Even if sry stored, think about those rings being sat against the bores for all that time. Even the tiniest amount of moisture in the oil or the cylinders as a by product of the combustion cycle would have caused some pitting / seizure. Take the valve cover off and inspect: - the state of the cam for rust and pitting - the rockers for rust and pitting - the timing chain and sprocket for any major wear or damage - oh and rust ;) If you are able to take out the spark plugs, squirt some oil into each cyl. Take off any fan and aircon belts, then see if you can turn the engine a few revolutions by getting a socket in the crank damper to make sure the valve train is moving without any obvious knocking from valves (in case of a broken or bent one). You really won’t know the true condition of the engine until you crack the head open or do a compression and leak down test - which can be difficult to do if you don’t have the engine in a rig or have a source of compressed air for leakdown testing where the engine is. With the N42 head and some flat top pistons (standard was dished) you “should” get in the region of 9.5:1 compression for an easy power upgrade. The internet talk will point people to P90 heads for performance but the N42 with stock 44cc chambers can produce good power without performing a big part in a Gillet commercial! All of that is off topic until you get the engine. Not knowing your plans, I am trying to say that you can extract good power without having to swap the head at a later stage. Sometimes you just don’t know what you have until the engine is apart and tested - so often it’s a matter of how much you trust the story. Good luck and keep us posted.
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In 2 days you did my total miles last year!! :)
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The hips and rear are way more buff than a 370 ;) I’d say 370 who does squats maybe?
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[mention] Joseph@TheZStore [/mention] thanks for coming back on this and great to be speaking with a firm that properly listen to their clientele! The galling is definitely an issue that they need to consider seriously, as undoubtedly others will also be experiencing this at some point. The teething issues with instructions etc will be sorted soon enough and as you say, an exploded diagram of sorts will be great. Thank you also for validating the bump stop / spacer bushing orientation. Would be interesting to see how others find it - when I experimented with that orientation, I found that the bump stop would be crushed against the spring top hat when the whole thing is torqued up and I wasn’t sure if that would reduce it’s lifespan. I’m sorry to hear you have men / women down at the moment. Having parents and friends who had COVID, I know it’s quite unpleasant but I’m sure I speak for us all when I say that we wish them a speedy recovery. Well done for keeping things going. The Zstore has always been a pleasure to deal with for me, especially confirmed when you replaced my damaged in transit Konis without a single word of quibble and gave me store credits for the additional taxes the UK government charged. Keep up the great work and hang in there, COVID will pass.
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Oh I want!!!!!!!!!!
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Wow! You certainly do hate money!!! The TTT stuff is very nice indeed and a friend of mine in the UK (whom like you, equally hates money and doesn’t have to pay school fees) has them on his car. The beauty is that you can dial the suspension in perfectly as you get full adjustment of toe / camber / caster etc. His car on Yokohamas is an absolutely limpit in the twisties, often leaving many modern cars in his wake! The one thing that isn’t obvious from your list and is most important is a brake upgrade. While these cars had great brakes in the 70s, great is only relative to the cars around you. I nearly went into the backs of two cars on different occasions when they pulled in front of me just before a roundabout (halving my braking distance) and slamming on their modern brakes. You can spend a lot or a moderate amount. I personally don’t think you need a rear disc conversion unless you live in a mountainous area or plan to long track days. I have vented discs and Toyota S12w callipers at the front, drums at the back. The car stops as good as my Audis (minus ABS and ESC of course) and copes well with a couple of track days a year. I once did a consultancy assignment for Lotus and one of the engineers challenged us to say what is the easiest way to make a car faster? The typical answers were quickly dispatched with his reply - “improve the brakes”! Second to that was set the suspension up right. Increasing power was at the bottom of his list. I like the spreadsheet idea. I started with that when I was going to rebuild myself at first and it really shows you what you need and how the costs ramp up.
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I think you have the right idea rebuilding. Now then, beware that the whole modification thing; it is a rabbit hole and can very quickly get very expensive. The question you have to ask yourself is, do I feel lucky? Well do ya? But seriously the question is: what it the car going to be and how you will want to use it. No good having all that power with a turbo if you can’t put it down. So plan the car as a system. Some people get excited by what looks great on the internet and end up with something that just doesn’t work well together. Some easy mods that don’t cost a lot and give the best BHP/$ are a sensible overbore, properly gapped rings, flat top pistons, a shave of the head, porting the head, a fast road higher than stock lift cam, better valve springs and seats and an appropriately sized exhaust manifold (header) and free flowing system (bigger is definitely not better here, it has to match the gas flow and the ports). Oh and decent ignition and fuelling. The power in these cars is made in the head, so focus your efforts there. However one of the things that makes my engine great is the attention to detail of the engine builder. Each cyl was bored to the exact dimensions of each piston and rings. The rings were gapped to perfection and so and so on. It’s easy to get carried away with big duration lumpy cams etc. For example you don’t necessarily need forged pistons and rods to make good power in an NA road car, but if you like the bragging rights and have the money to throw at it then go for it. My NA L28 on 240 SUs, cast flat top pistons with +1mm, is doing a shade over 240 BHP at the flywheel so roughly around 190-200 at the wheels. But that is a little irrelevant as peak torque of c. 210lbft arrives at 5k rpm - so while I can light up the 195 section rear tyres in 1st if I wanted to, the power is progressive and builds nicely the harder you go, so I don’t really need an LSD diff or big wheels / tyres with coilovers etc. But a stroker or turbo engine would be shredding those tyres all day long and will need significant spend on suspension, diff, wheels / tyres etc. My engine pulls very hard from 3.5k to 7k RPM if I let it go that far and can pull nicely all day from 1.5k around town and in traffic. But some prefer less revs and more torque lower down so they build a stroker or go for a different cam etc. What is your driving style? What do you want out of the car? Will you drive fast twisty roads where you sit between 3k - 5k rpm for most of the time and like to cruise in towns or are you a racer who needs power at the top end? My engine cost £2.5k sterling to build - I got a superb deal, then I spent another £1.5k on stuff around the engine like light weight flywheel, electronic ignition, crank damper etc. If i want to get to 300bhp NA I have to quadruple that budget. If you go turbo, depending on how hard you hit it, you’re in for forged pistons and rods which immediately adds another £1k-£2k, better bearings, etc etc. So in short, what I’m trying to get at is, take your time, do some serious thinking about what you want the whole car to be, do homework on your options within your budget and build a well executed engine that suits: the car, your driving style and your budget. Then add 50% to your budget [emoji13] unless you can exercise soldierly self restraint. Don’t get carried away by the internet mechanics, big talk / big numbers and fancy kit which you can throw a lot of money at for small gains. But most important of all is to do it right and only once!!!! Many people talk horsepower at the bar but in the real world, behind the wheel we all enjoy driving a decent torque curve.
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Wot he said [emoji115][emoji115][emoji115][emoji115] That sludge also scoring suggests to me that the oil may not have been changed very often, BUT as grannyknot said, these are incredibly hardy engines. The L28 is to some the best iteration of the L6 engine and has loads of room for performance upgrades, for more displacement, higher compression etc. I second the idea of starter motor compression testing. But a part of me feels that if you have the time and inclination to open her up, you may as well do it properly and get rid of the sludge you can’t see. Buy two books and study them well ... How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun Ohc Engine https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1931128030/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rrCwFb4KTD7MQ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B0092WMDCK/ref=nodl_ If you take the head off, you can measure the bores in several places and check if they are in spec. My 200k engine had the honing marks on the bores without any obvious signs of wear! But if you are taking it apart, I would heed the advice given above with photos, bag and tag etc and also add that you may wish to consider a some mild modifications.
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It is indeed! Recognition at last ;) WOSP who make the starter, are also a good British company, who make seriously high quality stuff. When I was deciding to rewind my 280zx alternator for more juice at lower RPMs (due to the half sized pulley on the ATi crank damper), I contacted them and they have a very impressive selection of stuff but not the cheapest around. You get what you pay for in this instance. http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/
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You guys look properly badass!!!! [emoji106] If that’s you in the top photo, I’d say it’s definitely Covid proof!! That’s some serious kit you got there.[emoji33][emoji33] I just saw the article pop up on my US news channel - totally senseless. It’s totally understandable that you can’t sleep. A very sad ending to a life of accomplishments but at least his soul is in a better place and at peace. Take it easy chap. [emoji1317][emoji106]
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Love it!! Thanks for sharing. As you say, interesting other products too! [emoji106] You would of course have to flip the battery round on a RHD car as the positive terminal is under the wing! [emoji15] BTW, I’ve used AES for years - they are brilliant to deal with.