AK260

I have held Jason’s in my hands and weighed them! (Callipers that is, nothing worse you may be considering!!!) They are FEATHER light and make my S12W callipers look like they were made of lead!!!!

This looks awesome!! Are they purely a 240 item or do they accommodate late 260 / 280z hubs? Ps. Got linkie?

I believe they were nicknamed “Darwin’s Cruise Control” for obvious reasons! ;)

Hey thanks for sharing such a detailed procedure! This is all great advice / steps to follow. I particularly like the paper clip idea - why oh why did I not think of that! What I do slightly differently to you is to use a digital calliper micrometer's bottom to check the jet heights. I personally find counting flats tedious but also lose count ;). My Z Therapy carbs wound all the way up have the adjustment nut tabs about two flats different between the carbs Every full turn is 1mm down; each flat is 0.167 mm. So in the photo above you will see mine are set at 2 turns and 1 flat down (I run very modified SM needles - my jet height settings should not be reused with stock needles). The only thing I would add to your list would be to check the springs are pushing equally. I just used some books and kitchen scales to measure at a compressed height of 65mm. If different between carbs, the piston heights at WOT conditions will be at different heights. Here's a table of HS6 alternative springs / ratings.

Are these bad boys still available for sale? I would love a set but can't seem to find them on google / eBay etc :(

Rock auto, buy moog!

eBay! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252953962291 Although MSA have the rear hatch ones at a decent price if originality for items on show is of concern. https://ebay.us/o3iou5 Firstly, I had the same issue with my car and I did much of the above, it's all great advice up there. I started out using masking tape to seal up all the areas that could be responsible; then went for a drive and little by little removed the tape until the the smell came back. Then I would plug that issue and repeat until it got sorted. You do look a little silly driving with tape all over your rear end - a bit like loo paper hanging out of the back of your trousers / or shoes! Areas mine was leaking: Rear hatch vinal panel: sealed with D shaped black draft excluder used in your home. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372485235841 Missing rubber bungs at the bottom of the hatch. This one and the one above made a HUGE difference. Finally, the car was very bearable but still felt light headed after and hour so. The inner rear hatch weather strip looked fine but was loose in places. Re-glued it on all round. Lifted up the rear deck area carpet and found one missing bung in spare wheel area. Then took off the rear inside trim behind the tail lights and found lots of daylight through the hole where the fuel tank breather pipe goes. Again a bit of creativity with insulation. My tail light gaskets were just fine. I can now drive ALL day and the only thing that hurts are my ears from driving with the window down and grabbing the next gear at over 6k rpm all the time. Oh and my facial muscles hurt from constantly sporting an inane grin like a four year old when I do this. The PO of my car did a great job of body work resto but wasn't into rubber and those VITAL little things - but then again he was a polish and display man who did 800 miles in 5 years between shows, so it probably didn't even register. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. There is always something new to be learned from other people's experiences!

Looks like they have updated the instructions with more cap options, so maybe your feedback hasn't fallen on deaf ears. http://www.123ignition.nl/files/manuals/123manual_TUNEPLUS.pdf Buddy I'm genuinely gutted to hear your woes on this and do hope you save the engine. At least it affords you the possibility to build it into something meaner!

The sorted certainly gets positive reviews https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8016s/reviews/ http://www.mechanicalcaveman.com/best-electric-pump-for-carburetor-fuel-pump-review/

My questions on elec fuel pumps is 1. How reliable and 2. how noisy? I really hate it when my brother in law turns the ignition key on his TR6 and all you hear is whzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

I'm very sorry to hear your experiences with 123. I loved it, then hated it with a passion and recently, very slowly starting to like it again. I had the exact same issue with both the Beru caps that came on it and the silly expensive spare I bought at the same time. Thankfully it failed relatively safely and all I got was back fire and loss of power. I bought the equivalent Bosch cap - which I wouldn't say is a HUGE step up in quality / finish but hasn't had this issue. To complement your write up and add to the body of evidence, I did a write up of 123 ign - warts 'en all on the link below: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/123-ignition-for-datsun-l6-on-my-l28.25467/ IMHO it's a great product that is plagued by quality issues which at this price point should not exist. There are other options out there that aren't as slick but provide data logging too, so worth researching before committing. Here is one such option: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/speeduino-installation.23302/page-3 I do hope 123 get their act together and address customer feedback as I really love the concept and find the custom advance curve very useful for my fine tuning antics. I am astounded how small companies take so little care to protect their reputation by providing lousy post sales customer service. Was it responsible for melting your piston? Impossible to know but at the very least acknowledging the issue with the cap would help to improve their product and avoid reviews like yours and mine (which incidentally come up in the top links of google searches). Hope you get the car sorted again! Thank you for sharing your experiences. People generally shy away from writing up negative experiences and the rest of us fall into the same traps without this knowledge.

You are very kind sir! Thank you! [emoji106][emoji106]

Brilliant !!! Thank you!

Thanks dude. She's a labour of love and really getting there. A few photos below: With the new race/sport exhaust fitted, she managed 232bhp @6400rpm and 211lbft at 5000 on the dyno last week (corrected power). The engine power was still climbing but the AFR was going too lean (high 13s) so the tuner backed off. The curve was a little bumpy low down for my liking. She is sporting very modified SM needles but I am doing a whole lot more needle work at the moment. Once sorted I will write it up properly for the benefit of others wishing to go down the SUs on modified L28 path. I'm pretty confident I can iron out the curve and release a few more top end ponies with better fuelling. The tilting lift is made by CJ Autos in the UK. I started a thread on it and there was a lot of controversy on where to position it on the car. I still haven't had the balls or the need to take it to it's max height. [emoji33] https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/car-tilting-lifts-cj-autos.25075/ Given mine is a '77 260 it has the longer fatter floor / chassis rails (like the 280) that go all the way back. You can lift the car on the cills instead of you wish as the lift is width adjustable but I felt where I have it was the strongest less damaging place to go - especially given the wide weight distribution across the car. It is my number one favourite Best Buy tool!!! I don't have space for a post lift in my garage. With this tool, except for a tranny swap there is nothing I can't do on the car now that requires underside access.

Quick update as promised: I fitted the Z story exhaust and in the process found that on the original header gasket there were several exhaust leaks and a small vac leak on cyl 6. With new header and gasket, the car runs just fine. Amazing how much fuss a little air leak can cause! The Z story system is a thing of beauty and performs well. Sean the supplier is also a very decent chap who has been most helpful post sales. And finally something to scare and entertain you with:

I have this exact header and rest of system on my car. Fitted last month. $300 is an ABSOLUTE bargain!!! You need to ensure your engine produces enough gas flow to make the most of it. I run an L28 with 205 PSI dynamic comp, Ported E88 head with big valves and mild cam producing 230+ BHP on SUs and this header. I went from the MSA header with a straight pipe 2.5" back to a turbo muffler, to this one with the centre resonator and his straight through silencer. The difference is that it's a LOT less noisy (read more bearable on the motorway) below 3.5krpm then it gets seriously angry above. The equal length long primaries and the longer than the MSA secondaries are great for scavenging and torque. Another club member in the U.K. Has put the same system on a nearly stock L26 with a mild Schneider cam and he has a lovely smooth progressive power curve. You are ultimately better asking Sean, but on two very different street applications, it has worked perfectly.

Well this is the sort of guy you want near your car!! So two questions: 1. That looks like a UK mobile number - is your panel guy in the UK? 2. Any chance your sticker guy is going to do some more and what is the best way to contact them?

Utterly brilliant!!! Thank you for sharing. I'm trying to do the opposite I.e. Modify SM needles to keep SUs on modified L28. So this is a great resource. [emoji106]

Jerry, sounds like you need to start a business selling those globally ;) there is certainly a lot of demand!! [emoji106][emoji106]

Hello chap - another request from the UK pls. Jon do you want to share postage?

and I was just about to send you a link to this post - then I realised it's you!!!! [emoji1787] :p Ps. Seen this ? https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102748-build-after-24-years/

^^^ wot he said ^^^ Let's not forget rockauto ;) https://www.rockauto.com/

Thanks guys, all great insights. I did look at chokes before but I haven't recently - so I will undo the cables and make sure the jets are returning fully. John, I will try what you suggested before doing that. Will also get vac gauge out and let you know of any leaks. Next up, I need to get these bad boys on and head for a RR tune again. But I do want to find the root cause of this annoyance first!

Good call that man. So, installed 123 last summer and blew the back box the same day. Compression tested and all well. Found HT lead issues a couple of days later Replaced HT leads a week later and the world became a better place but unsmooth idle. Changed dizzy back to 280zx - power better but still issues with steady throttle. Changed cap and rotor - much the same. Changed back to 123. Changed plugs and coil also a week later. No difference. Slept for winter. New cap and rotor on 123 6 months later (last week) all good. Retuned carbs on Friday last week. All good right until I pulled the plugs for the last time to check colour. Plugs back in not smooth anymore on part throttle or idle. Changed plugs again in case I damaged them, no difference. Checked all electrical connectors again etc. No difference. Changed back to 280zx dizzy last night still the same. But interestingly no vac advance at idle just at fast idle. Also stalls with 280zx one at idle but not on 123 (due to anti-stall timing). So it made me think about vac leaks. Does that help?

Time for some collective thinking please oh wise heads. Problem: the car feels like it's "missing" constantly but randomly (I.e. Not always on the same Cyl). Mainly on steady throttle or idle. Goes like stink but tries to die when idling. Plugs all look the same, like they are firing and chocolate brown if taken out after hard acceleration and ign off + neutral. It feels like it would, if a carb was way out of balance or a cyl not firing correctly. Engine: L28, 10.5:1, 270 degree high lift cam, Dynamic Compression c. 205PSI across all 6, pertronix flamethrower coil, 8.5mm HT leads, NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 1.1mm , 123 ignition. Z therapy SUs / SM needles. When did it start: I fitted the 123 ignition, stupidly following the instructions and the no.1 plug position on the cap was not correct against where the rotor was pointing - timing 120 degrees out. It resulted in a condition technically referred to as "car-no-startie" followed by a baaada boom!!!! Biiig bada boom, bada big boom. Goodbye baffles, hello shiny new straight through silencer! :D Coincidentally, later I found the magnecore leads had breaks that came to the fore after the dizzy change, resulting in intermittent ignition issues and on power/wot popping - according to the condescending chap on the phone at magnecore this failure is my fault for not unplugging them often enough!!! Not sure how that is possible as my HT leads are on and off like a tart's knickers!! No matter, at least I know what not to buy next time. So that made me think HT was to blame. It seemed to go away of it's own accord but it's back again. What I have done so far: replaced coil, leads, two different distributors (280zx 12-80 and 123 ignition). New plugs, Cleaned plug holes and threads for a strong Earth. Checked all low tension connectors are clean and tight. Checked all HT leads for breaks and connector stability when on. New caps and rotors on both dizzies. Engine Earth checked for loose connections. Interestingly the thick ground cable from battery to starter body has 5ohms impedance (eeeew) so new one on order (but it ran fine previously with the same cable so it can only get better with more volts). To prove it's not the 40 year old wiring, I even ran direct cables from battery to coil (with a fuse of course, which is very much needed to stop the engine - a condition technically known as "car-no-stoppie"). Carbs balanced to near perfection and previously RR tuned with needles profiled to match the engine. Using the lifting pins makes the revs go high briefly then settles back down to where it was so I think the mix is OK. Timing on 123 set to: 800 rpm is anti-stall and it works well. She was flying like a hell cat the other day but then after idling for a while it started again and won't go away even when fully cooled down. When on power or WOT I can leave black lines everywhere so the power is healthy. I'm strongly tending to a Vac leak now. Could the backfire through exhaust and intake have blown a hole in the manifold gasket or the brake booster Vac lines? Could it have damaged the carbs? I checked the butterflies and they are still round ;) ... and flat. Brake booster seems OK as I can pump the pedal 3-4 times after ign off before it starts to fight back. So if anyone has seen such a thing and has any advice beyond my current trouble shooting, then I'm all eyes and thumbs! ;)