jonbill

I think that says they share a design, not the part though. The body diameter is 2mm different, the choke couldnt fit.

sure, why not? chokes might be harder to come by than 40 or 45s, but I expect thats the only practical difference.

I'd check the numbers on the jets and tubes first, that should be a 10 min job. swapping carbs around can be a fair bit of work, depending how the linkages are done.

obvious guesses are that cylinder 5 unit is different from the others. have you taken the jet stacks out and compared them? is #5 idle screw the same as the others, and screwed out the same amount? its still a dcoe, so I dont think its different from a 40 or 45 in how it works.

I only have two idle holders, .2 and .1, so I work with them.

if you were in the UK I could lend you my box of spares. :)

I tend to compare the L28 to 2.0 Pinto engine. they've got a lot in common and the size per cylinder is close. I wouldn't at this point go for leaner holders. I'd just go for 40 jets and see what difference it makes.

if you know what size you want, these guys can make them for you. I think I paid £120 for a set a few years ago. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/

do check that the chokes are completely off. I think 34mm would be a better choke size than 32, but it's not a big difference and I don't want to go spending your money :) I'd go with 40 idle jets as the next step. idle jets are reasonably cheap so that's where I'd start. maybe check your float heights while you wait for them since it's easy. there's a very good book "how to build and power tune weber and dellorto dcoe and dhla carburettors" by Des Hammill which is full of useful info. we'll worth getting a copy.

just a comment on that choke size. I know that there's lots of advice around to use chokes that small, but I think that's mainly driven by ease of setup. if you want to use all the rev range then those chokes will be limiting it's performance. changing the choke sizes however invalidates all your jet choices so if you do want to get the most out of the engine ever, best to change the chokes first.

mtx-l I think should be accurate. How do the AFR values change as you drive around? what do you get cruising on steady throttle below 2500 rpm? and what is it at full throttle above 3000? when you're just off idle and it goes rich, it's on the progression holes and I'm not sure the float level is influential there. I'd guess its just the combination of idle jets and idle jet holder is too rich. unless the choke is on of course. have you got a choke cable connected? is it definitely all the way off?

they'd be very black I think if it was running 7-9. what kind of afr kit is it? fuel pressure is probably not relevant as long as its not overcoming the inlet valves. 2-5 psi should be fine.

I don't think it can run well at afr 7-9. my experience is it'll bog down once your down to 10 and lower. what do the spark plugs look like?

I've got an LD28 block and crank build on the go. At 84x90 (stroke/bore) It's still only 3.2. The Rebello 3.35 is an 89mm custom Crower crank.

I wouldn't really expect stumbling and backfiring at AFR 15. I'd expect more like 17 /18 for that. It could be that your carbs aren't balanced, so you've got one at 17/18 and one at 12/13 averaging out on the o2 sensor around 15. The imbalance could be throttle opening or needle lift. check and adjust so that they both flow the same air at idle and 2000 and 3000 rpm. then check that the needles are being lifted equally at all 3 points.

I have a vague recollection mine has one spring. This could be the "euro" distributor's slightly faster advance curve?

it's obviously man made, the plan was developed by the G8 a few years ago as the solution to the problems of an aging population and continuously advancing (and expensive) medical science. which countries are in the G8? which countries have high death counts? launching it in China is just a smokescreen.

yes, that should get you in the right area. As zedhead says, best to set it with a timing light, once it's running. having watched your video, I don't think that movement is right. it's normal to have some movement again as ZH says, but the mechanical advance is sprung so it should return when you release it. is there more resistance in one direction than the other?

the check points gap thing is an aside. I.e. check the points gap before you try to set the timing. it's a pre-requisite of setting the timing. to set the points gap, you rotate the distributor until the points are right on top of one of the 6 lobes, the most open point.

This is probably the paper the scmp made their story from. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41423-020-0424-9#Fig1 it concludes that their research is inconclusive. It doesn't present any evidence that the virus disables the immune system like HIV. it says the infection of T cells is abortive, i.e. a failure. fwiw, chicken pox and flu both also infect T cells. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6115886/

what sort of spark plug gap are you using? You could try closing them down to 0.6mm.

The public health policy around the world wrt face covering/masks is quite varied, some say do, some say don't. I assume all countries have access to the same science, and I'd therefore conclude the scientific case for it is rather weak. the BBC coincidentally published this today, covering policy around the world. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-51205344

I'm joining the dots between some facts I know, but I could be wrong. I'm always happy to go with the real science evidence presented by experts. Please could you share it again? I must have missed it.

Yes, probs no harm using a home made face covering. It might even catch a small % of virus particles. But if it is spread by breath alone it won't be doing enough to warrant being arsey with peole not wearing one (to answer your original question). At the nm scale, most people's face covering would be like using cod trawler net for plankton. (I just looked up the definition of plankton and its bigger than I thought, but still....)

I bought it as a kit and assembled it myself. I sourced sensors, injectors, trigger wheel, coil pack and igniter separately. And tuned it myself too (mainly tuner studio autotune did it actually) FWIW including buying ITBs, I reckon total cost was about £2000.