jonbill

Just a fun fact. A good oil filter filters particles about 10 micron, and I suppose we think of them filtering quite well. Coronavirus is about 100 nm. So about 100 of them can pass side by side through an oil filter unimpeded. Aerosolised virus appears to be defined as droplets smaller 5 micron, https://www.nature.com/articles/d41586-020-00974-w These small droplets are what you breathe out. So two of them can pass side by side through our oil filter. Odds on, no consumer mask is going to do better than an oil filter. Probably nothing like as good actually. I'm sure a half decent mask is effective in catching droplets from coughing and sneezing. And those droplets can carry more than 6 metres. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.sciencefocus.com/the-human-body/how-far-do-coughs-and-sneezes-travel/amp/ so wearing a mask when you're coughing and sneezing, or around people that are coughing and sneezing would seem sensible. like in hospitals. Wearing one at the supermarket seems like mainly theater to me. It probably can't hurt, except of course if you're using masks that could otherwise be used in hospitals.

I also tried a new Pertronix igniter. I concluded they don't do revs.

Yes, mine is a Speeduino EMS controlling fuel and ignition. Both spark and fuel maps are using the TPS for load because I have ITBs and I read that the MAP signal is unreliable at low engine speed on one cylinder runner. I might try it one day. Idle is controlled by spark timing. I set 1100rpm as the target speed and set it to advance ignition if the speed falls below and retard ignition if the speed exceeds. so when cold it has maybe 18 deg advanced at idle and when warmed up I think it drops to 10 or 12.

Is that because you can roll it back and forward without losing tension?

Those "facts" aren't facts. its a normal RNA virus, with a similar lipid & protein structure to other viruses. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coronavirus?wprov=sfla1

because facebook.

No, remembering virus protein signatures is a feature of the immune system, not a characteristic of the virus.

Lots of the deaths attributed to covid-19 are of people who were going to die soon anyway. So although they died while infected, they didn't increase the number of people dying. So its the delta between daily death count this year vs any other year that is interesting (to me, at least)

I think the reports of numbers dying each day with the virus can be misleading. I understand about 7500 people die every day in the US in normal times. so isn't the more interesting question "how many people more than 7500 died each day?"?

The practical advice I'm sure is sound, but DNA is not a protein. And viruses contain RNA not DNA. and isn't it Johns Hopkins? you'd think the mum of someone that workd there would know.

shame he'll probably be asymptomatic.

i think its a 260/280 disc. part number cross references here: https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/13921449/internationalparts-service-88012.html

I think original Nissan stuff is all paper/fibre so you're right to only us it once. You can get Kameari stuff here: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/ (there's an email address on there somewhere, and Mr Mori will reply to English) Or rhdjapan.com if you're less adventurous! But I don't think they do full engine sets, just head gaskets. Apart from the cam cover, I tend to use Elring Dirko for everything else.

My head gasket is on its 4th use. Its a Kameari MLS gasket and is meant to be reused. Has to be at that price!

Thanks, Trevor has ordered them for me. Very quick and helpful. :thumbs:

Thanks, I'll have another look. I did find a casting number on the hub, but didn't think that was it.

I've been to measure, and my strut tube really is about 380mm deep, no way can it accommodate a 394mm insert, even at 42mm diameter. I couldn't find a part number on the tube - the underseal is thick anyone know where on the tube the part number is? The 8641 1033 is about maybe 2mm taller than the KYB strut, see the pic. The KYB is a 361002 and is listed as for a 240z, maybe it has to have a spacer in a 240z. (I installed them, but it was a long time ago and can't remember!) Even when fully bottomed in the strut, the 1033 is going to be a couple of mm proud. I may be able to modify the KYB gland nut to fit with it, maybe not. @KONI Lee is there a Koni distributor in EU that I might be able to buy the 48mm gland nuts from? or can you see in your parts catalogue a 42mm insert that's a bit shorter than 384mm?

My strut insulators are the same front and back. So early car?

I'll see what I can find.@ak260 does dating service for the UK club and that was his assessment of my VIN.

Thanks Lee, I'll do some measuring tomorrow.

There's a guy in the UK club with a plastic oem valve cover. I can't remember which model he said it comes from.

Thanks Lee, that sounds conclusive. My old KYB struts are about 42mm OD. I have some other corroboration that my build date is earlier than I thought. It's interesting what you say about the insert lengths - the 1033 are the same length as my old KYBs, and actually the 1033's ended up sitting a coupe off mm higher than the KYBs. Maybe they're not bottomed out because they're tight. I'll have to check the length of my tube and check there's not a spacer at the bottom - as it stands, I don't think there's room for a 10mm longer insert!

I love their social contract work.

Kelvin.

It's a UK car. I did think that broadly the transitions for the 260 were the same in US and UK, but I could easily be wrong on that.