jonbill

Clearly the clutch isn't releasing. Did you refit exact same clutch kit? I guess the 4 speed is f4w71b, but Which 5 speed? 1/4" movement of the fork doesn't sound right, I'd guess it needs a taller release bearing collar. But I might not be picturing it right in my head :)

That's very kind. I'll PM for details and payment.

I'd love some if your willing to ship to the UK. Thanks

is it idling OK now? Going back to the beginning, it seems to me that this was the sequence, right: 1. car was all working fine, 2. you took carbs off to fit new exhaust 3. You fitted the exhaust and put the carbs back on 4. The car ran poorly 5. You fiddled with float levels, mixture screws and more 5. Eventually discovered that the carb linkage was not set right and front carb wasn't opening at all below 2k I personally think it's unlikely that you simultaneously developed problems with fuel supply or ignition. Fwiw that 2 psi fuel pressure is fine. I think all you've got to do is really balance the carbs properly (you don't need Ztherapy for this) and make sure those float levels and mixture settings are right. Colourtune is a great tool to help with the mixture. Eventually you will need a decent heat shield between that zstory manifold and the carbs. Without it the fuel in the float chambers will boil.

Could be the distributor drive spindle isn't timed properly.

They look a little like the seals from inside the master cylinder.

Annoying because it was misleading. Engines don't need pure high quality fuel. Lots of engines will run on impure low quality fuel.

I got it all right. But the one about pure, high quality liquid or gas was annoying.

That's a really boring video.

Sounds like there's something odd about cylinder #6. If the overall engine is lean, is 6 so lean its missing and fouling, or is it oil fouling? Where does the master vac take its vacuum from on this setup?

OK, they're cool. Never mind me. :)

Which NGK? BPR6ES?

Those old spark plugs look quite cold, colder than standard which would contribute to fouling at idle. What plugs are the new ones?

I think you've got a few things need fixing. First up is a big air leak that's making the mixture lean and causing revs to rise. Either the throttles or chokes are open, or the carb to manifold or manifold to head gaskets aren't sealing.

That's true with the Kameari damper too. I clearanced the back of the fan blades by about 1mm to miss the damper. I couldn't space the fan forward because my fat radiator is in the way.

I stand corrected. It works fine on the Kameari damper :)

IIRC, your engine builder used the Kameari crank damper bolt and washer Ali.

When you step on the gas, is that going full throttle from low revs? How does it handle progressively opening the throttle from higher revs?

http://www.edproject.co.uk/NarrowAFR.html

Bkr7e seem the best compromise on mine. Doesn't melt at high revs, doesn't foul at idle. It's a 14mm hex because my plugs are 5mm further in than normal.

At least you've got one working one to compare too, and a good book. On my Dellortos the problem with the accelerator pumps is always the one way valve gets gummed up if the carbs aren't used for a while and sit with fuel in them.

There might also be throttle stops per carb. This is a good book on setup. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/1845849590/ref=dbs_a_w_dp_1845849590 I'd start with making sure the throttles are closed at rest and adjust the linkages so all 3 throttles start to move at the same time. Idle mixture screws I think should be a couple of full turns out from fully closed (but not sure of this, I don't have Webers). Have a look down the bore of each choke in turn as you open the throttle briskly and you should see a squirt of fuel going toward the engine. (3 pumps should be plenty for cold start even without choke, too many pumps will flood it). If the carbs are reasonably assembled and no big air leaks at manifold it really should start like that.

The left one is for the crank case ventilation pipe (although it looks small in that photo? ) and the one on the right is the block coolant drain. It should be just plugged in normal use. (although I have see one with a secondary electric pump extracting from there)

Imperial and US ounce are the same I think. Wiki agrees https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ounce I think we just deviate on how many ounces are in larger units like pints and gallons. An ounce is 28.3 g, so 24oz is 679.2g

If the colour of the plugs is OK, and it really is backfiring through the inlet, I'd suspect the ignition timing.