jonbill

your distributor spindle looks right now 👍🏻 the leftmost (or most anti clockwise) marker on the pulley will be 0 or TDC. the marks to its right are in 5 degree increments. the 0 marker should be aligned with the pointer on the timing cover at TDC. is it? depending how your timing gun works, 0 may be the correct marker to line it up with.

I think its just evidence of poor maintenance. m6 bolts are allowed, and rusty short ones break as much as rusty long ones.

I've worked on engines for 6 or 7 years and I've seen several worse designs. like the 1zz piston or the n47 timing chain.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+distributor+spindle+timing

this is the gear on the crank that that spindle engages with, as it goes diagonally across the top of it at about 10 o clock.

their shared spindle which is driven by a gear on the crank shaft.

That'll just dilute the engine oil with rustbuster, won't go anywhere near the oil pump!

whats the width? only thing I can think of is that they could be bits of compression rings

The distributor rotates pretty easy, no resistance there. so if you didn't hold the distributor rotor, I think there's every chance that its not at the same timing it was. I mean, all you did was take off and refit the oil pump and distributor timing shaft, and now it idles considerably higher. timing. and its easy to prove one way or another.

S130 maybe?

the spindle that came out with the oil pump sets the timing on the distributor. I expect your ignition timing is advanced. there are many threads on here about timing the oil pump and distributor spindle.

good recipe for more rebuild work.

I've heard that carbs can get better atomisation than injection. certainly the airflow through the venturi isn't the same as on ITBs. perhaps helps to vapourise the fuel. anyway, ultimately if they both deliver the same amount of air and fuel as each other, then they will produce similar power, all other things being equal.

Yeah, I don't think injection can necessarily beat well tuned carbs, but its a damn site easier to tune injection well.

sell the OERs and get ITBs and injection.

check and confirm its not water/coolant. Take the spark plugs out - are they coroded? what do the tips look like? (post a pic) have you had the valve cover off? it could be oil thats run down from the top. try cleaning it all up running again to see if more emerges.

you should port match the manifold to carb body.

I always set my clearances cold when I'm going to run the engine cold.

Well I'm glad I found this thread, I was about to adjust my clutch by disconnecting the yoke and unscrewing it from the rod!

main journal is 55mm, rod journal is 50mm. I think it must be more or less impossible to install one in the other.

fwiw, my block that Ali pictured above is a mid 80s v57 LD block. It came with no crank case vent holes of any kind. We drilled and tapped it (1" NPT maybe?) and I fitted that hose connector.

2mm are small lashpads. do you have new valves? springs?

A wooden stand like this is handy for fitting the flywheel and clutch. its easy to make around an engine or sump with a bit of decking board. You can even put castors on it to roll the engine around. (corner needs to be cut away for the oil pump before use!)

its pretty normal for it to look very low on the gauge at idle and warmed up. I wouldn't worry about it as long as it ahows higher when driving.

Yes, it's a Speeduino ECU. I wasn't suggesting it as a solution, just evidence that the engine likes a lot of advance at idle.