MakDiesel

It's mine so I can vouch for it. Would rather it go to someone on this board than anywhere else. Ebay Manual

bump some more

Still for sale, lower price, bump

Go to my gallery for pics: The good: 183K miles, all original, runs awesome F54 Block P90 head new water pump reconditioned fan/clutch manual 5-speed tan interior primer gray exterior new tan carpet throughout 15" Pacer chrome wheels recent tires Clarion CD player new distributor (entire unit) molded MSA spoiler/wing emblems/holes shaved in clear title new 1000/850 CA battery new exhaust gasket valves adjusted recently new belts power windows/steering/mirrors new clutch/plate/bearing new fuel pressure regulator Ractive Cold Air Intake new plug wires All receipts The Bad: Front bumper removed no A/C, but heat works fine decent amount of rust on rails only one rust hole in body, driver's side rear corner front shocks shot Location: Mocksville, NC (near Winston-Salem) PM or e-mail MackDieselZ@aol.com asking $1400 obo. Need to sell, fall semester is coming up.

Yeah I decided that stock is better than dual-blowout on the highway...now jus waiting for the stock springs...la la... anyway thanks guys. Mak

A previous owner apparently cut a coil or two off my 280zx's front springs to drop it down a few inches. While this looks good, it has been wearing the insides of my front tires at 10 times the normal rate of the outside! So I have 3/4 inch of tread on the outside and I'm down to the steel wires on the inside. Any help? I want to keep the ride height like it is but the camber MUST change. I've heard of shims, strut spacers, grinding slots in the strut towers, etc or I can jus revert back to stock and ride with the front jacked higher than the rear. I don't have the $$$ for quality lowering springs. Any suggestions on past experiences guys? Any help would be appreciated. Mack

I know it isn't a Z but my 280zx will be under the wrench for quite a while and I still need a reliable transport to school and I thought maybe you guys could keep your eyes open. I only have about $1500 to work with and all I ask is that there is little/no rust and a sound drivetrain. Thanks, Mak

My tire wear is insane because of bad camber and I desperately seek a replacement pair to correct this before I have a blow-out. (I can see the steel wires). I'm not sure but I think all '79-'83 front springs were the same. (Hanes says for the 2-seater GL the spring color is white and white)

OK, On my daily driver '81 280zx I recently removed just the belt to see what driving w/o power steering was like compared to my 240z. Turns out it turns better than the '72 240! It may be due to the reciculating ball vs. rack n' pinion or the 300lb + I've probably removed from the ZX but it was a pleasant surprise that only when turning sharply or at a standstill was two hands ever really needed. My question is, is the ease of steering due to hydraulic fluid still being churned when I manually turn and will I tell a notciable difference (easier or harder) in steering if I completely removed the pump/brackets/hoses/etc so rid of more excess weight. I dunno who out there has ever done this or would know whether I should leave or rid of the remaining pump attachments but any insight would be appreciated. I thought I might sell the pump/etc to save up for a Lexan windshield. Thanks, Mak

Lightening of my '81 280zx has gone from small things to hard-core stripped race car. I've removed the front bumper, entire A/C system, all carpet, jute, all interior plastic panels, and muffler. Now comes the power sterring. First, has anyone ever done this? Will it have the heavy feel of my old 240z? Is it worth the effort and weight savings, not to mention engine drag? Any insight would help. Thanks

Ok, not a true gut because i still drive this beast every day but I'll keep the dash (with major components within it intact) and both factory seats. Ive already dropped the front bumper and entire A/C components, so I was jus wondering (if anyone has ever weighed this stuff) how much more is dropped from removing all the plastic interior panels and carpet, jute, etc.? this is for a '81 280zx by the way.....a model that needs a diet more than most...

I've decided to quit trying to make my 280zx look pretty on the inside and just gut it except the seats and dash. Upon carpet removal I've noticed that the jute (as stated by most of you who have done this before) acts like a sponge and basically will rot your floorboards from the inside out. Sure enough, mine had very damp jute and rust to boot. My question is how to remove all of the tiny pieces of jute and carpet that seem to be attached to the metal by forces stronger than I. Also, the door panel plastic was held on by some kind of white and yellow sealant that is also as stubborn as cold carbs. Any cheap alternatives to just scrapping it off with a putty knife? Thanks, Mak