MakDiesel

I bought a '72 a few weeks ago and it needs body work like no other...at least it's localized in the front...I need... Left and right front fenders hood (just hood no brackets or anything) If you have these complete, no ding/dent, and no rust then make an offer and hopefully shipping won't kill me if I take your offer. Thanks, peace

I've been looking (for what seems like months now) on upgrading my 240's point distributor w/ an elect. one off of a ZX. Ok, I know I need an E12-80 module but someone sent me an offer and said theirs had an advance cam of 8.5...ok my Q is wtf is that? I've heard of advance curve, vacuum advance, advance/retard, cam lift, etc but never advance cam (i'm assuming 8.5 is degrees of something) Jus wonderin if someone could clue me in...also tell me what 'advance cam' I need for a bone stock '72 240 with good ol' SU's and a damn 3-sp slushbox. thanks in 'advance' AD

I plan to put an electronic distributor into my '72 (I hate points) and was wondering which one would replace it properly...I've done the research and know I need a '79-83 dizzy for the best results but I didn't know if it mattered whether I got a manual or auto version (I assume so but I'd rather be sure...my 240 is a 3-sp auto by the way) with either version I've been told to only use the E12-80 module, which is pre-'81. So should I go with auto-auto (seems logical) or auto-manual combo?

I don't see how it's lean considering all 6 plugs were fouled in record time/ reek of gas ect....I'll have to get back to you on the vac. mod. As for the oil gauge it idles in the dead middle but slides to 90 when accelerating or running at any speed over 20-25 period. Feels like I have a geo metro 3-banger pulling the Z instead of the 6...total lack of power plus the above mentioned problems

NEED HELP!!! Took the '72 for it's first test drive on the open road the other day (finally got her to stay running), and let me tell you, it was some scary $^!#. Here's what I noticed in 6 miles of slow, slow, cautious/aggravating driving: - The 3-sp automatic shifts hard and somewhat sparatic - At about 30mph the car loses all power and takes its time getting past 30 - It bogs horribly on hills...to the point of stopping/stalling - The carbs have an irritating tendency to load up and backfire "clap" another sign of running rich - Of course exhaust fumes everywhere - The water temp gauge apparently isn't hooked up - Even scarier, the oil pressure gauge STAYED at 90+lb once I got her going - And she's missing like mad while idle and/or load - Other than that, steering was fine, brakes had a lil squeal, all the lights worked (tho the int. ones were weak and dim), and I didn't die from stalling out on the hill w/ a dualie behind me. Ok my request is for some info I know some of you guys are teeming with...I already know adjusting the SU's to correct specs and tuning ignition timing will cure some of these problems...maybe upgrading to an electronic dizzy will fix the chronically rich issue but what about the shifting and dangerous oil pressure? Is it a fluid issue or sensor/pump? Any insight would be appreciated, this car has to be in top shape b4 August (college ride) and I have limited funds to fix her (otherwise I'd say 'here mechanic, cure all her ills") thanks in advance, peace UPDATE: Yeah I fotgot to mention, I do have round tops (thank god) Rest of specs are '72 Series II, 3-spd auto (dammit) and probably all bone stock mechanically

I didnt vote b/c I personally haven't inspected/driven the car. I know from experience 18 dozen pictures of every nook and cranny still wont give you all the info you need. If I had to vote tho, I'd put it up in the 3.5-4K range, simply because of the scarecity of the year and your desire to own one. (I've emptied my bank account getting my '72 so I know all about the 'Z bug") My advice simply this: If it's what you want, and you can afford it, go for it (assuming all the mechanicals, known problems, etc turn out to be minor) There's nothing worse then NOT getting what you paid for.....that's just my rant tho....any others?

It's sacrifice will benefit the lives of other, living Z's, by donating various parts thus keeping part of the old car with your new ride...I'm doing the same to my 240/280zx...gotta pass on the 280zx to pay for the 240z so I'm trying to find something I need from the '81 to put in the '72 for sentimental purposes...it was my first Z... if only i could do a engine/tranny/diff swap all would be wonderous and friggin easier than adjusting points, carbs, and being stuck w/ a vintage slush box...alas... On a brighter note I'm going older school by choice instead of having to change rides out of bad events like yourself...so I guess I have nothing to complain about...Hope the hurt heals as you resurrect whichever ride it may be (so long as it's a Z, naturally)...good luck and get better! Peace

That picture further compliments my long-stated warning: Never, EVER, drink and fabricate...

They only did 2 things right...borrowed the tripod dash arrangement common to 90% of us on this forum and the engine is super clean and not a bad color scheme. Now from viewing the side I noticed I could stuff that clown you all were mentioning in the fender gap left by the tall springs/too small a wheel/tire for the fender. It is practically an off road british mudder. And of course, the rest is $^!#.

I'm not even to the legal drinking age yet so my music naturally will make most of you others cringe and get earplugs. Cruising:anything with a good hook or bassline (rap) Pissed off :anything hard, fast, loud, screaming (nu metal) to work:something I know all the words to (anything but country) this list is vague cuz if I put specific bands ill be thrown out for listening to 'noise' or 'crap'...doesn't really matter right now cuz my '72 240 is both without a CD player (or tape for that matter) and no one speaker....it's also not tagged or legal yet so its almost ok. my '81 280 has got a sweet clarion CD/mp3 but only 3 speakers... .... i miss the days of the dakota sport with earth shattering 150+ db dual 15" bostwick HD pro subwoofers running off the audiotech 1800 mean machine amp....ha it's all going into the '72..peace

Called back to autozone to see what temp. the thermo was set at they had sold me....192 degrees! Looked at the one I pulled from the 240 to begin with.....192 friggin degrees! No wonder it ran so high....it only cut on a mere 28 degrees before I ran out of gauge! Anyway, took the hot one back for a twice as expensive but much more sensible one....and the lowest they had 160 degree...should be in tomorra.....also looked into getting a 4 row radiator....cant find one for a 240z unless I get the big bad Motorsport version...that'll set me back $300....Anyone know of cheaper alternatives yet still 4-row cooling capacity? Also will be pulling the clutch fan apart to clean/regrease it to stop the seizing...all in good time to get her tagged and on the road w/o worry in 95+ degree heat :classic:

Yeah I thought of just finding a junked ZX but over here on the east coast esp. in NC we have lil in the way of finding a decent Z, and slim to scarce of finding a part-able one in a junkyard. Thing is there are no pick-n-pulls in my area that I know of or else I'd have torn apart half the state. The fins on my ol stocker have been straighter in their day too so I'm looking for a swap, maybe a similarly designed 4-row out of some big V-8? If it can cool 8 factory, It'll cool 6 under any condition.

My '72 Z is having problems staying cool with the original 2-row radiator (common problem). Anyway, instead of paying $245 + $30 shipping to have a heavy duty 4-row sent to me from Motorsport, I was wondering if anyone has adapted any other 4-row that was never orginally made for the 240s, but fit nicely anyway. (Sort of like the ol' Toyota 4x4 rear brake conversion)

Replaced the thermo ($4) and it still climbs too high after a relatively short time....used the old thermo/boiling water test and it worked...so the old thermo was fine. I suspect either the fan clutch, water pump, or clogged heater core......after some investigating I noticed after it ran hot the radiator cap had virtually no pressure yet while removing the thermostat housing it was pressurized enough to spray/bubble antifreeze out b4 it cooled down....there is either a block or no/low flow or both....water pump isnt 'weeping' that I can tell...I'd notice too cuz my 280zx had a 'crying' water pump for a good month b4 I found the time to replace it instead of carry a gallon jug w/ me at all times. Top radiator hose still feels limp and empty at idle...dunno what's up or how to check the other suspects (pump, fan, core)

Keep up the progress fstr240, we're pulling hard for you. Good to hear the worst is probably over..... Ken brought up a good point tho, about the SUVs and trucks stalking the roads, some weighing in at 2 or 3 times more than my comparatively featherweight 2400lb 240....30 year old safety technology/regulations won't stand a chance in a serious crash with the big boys...good thing all Z drivers are so protective of their cars and hopefully themselves, tho no driver, no matter how experienced can control accidents out of their control. Just a thought......everybody can enjoy the ride (us Z and ZX drivers especially), jus be safe so it won't end up in disaster....

The first time I took it out on the road (ever) was yesterday. I had had hood release problems so it was without a hood for this particular run. While idling at a stoplight, I noticed small jets of water shooting out of the front of the car and landing on the fender, thus overheating at the overflow bottle.....after changing the thermostat, same result.....the one I replaced looked to be in good shape....I'll try the boiling water trick tomorrow to see if it was defective but it looks to me like there is something else amiss. P.S. -- Is it safe to jus take the thermostat out completely, thus always having full flow? It's getting summer now so I won't be needing the heat.

my '72 is still in the tuning stages but I can't leave it running long b/c it'll sit right between the 120 and 250 on the temp gauge but after driving it around in the parking lot to check the carbs ill leave it at idle for maybe 30 sec and then the needle skyrockets to 250 and I shut it off immediately.....Also I've checked the hose that runs from the thermostat and the radiator while it idles and the flow is very low or not at all....So far I've changed the thermostat and flushed the system.....i dunno whats blocking it or might be the pump....any of you have this problem?

I went from easy to hard and eventually it took taking the whole hood off to get to the engine...anyway, getting a new spring, etc off ebay for it so i wont have to go thru the trouble again...anyway thanks guys, you all rock....peace

that is my master plan actually....drop my '81 f54/p79 w/ 5-speed and 3.90 rear in it for the ultimate style and EFI non-turbo power....problem is i have to have the '81 for a daily driver til i get the '72 to replace it...plus no garage or tools for such an undertaking and to top it off i work 5+ days a week on third shift so my time is limited at best....to top it off the '72 has a rebuilt motor, while the '81 is cruising w/ 177K original miles...better to jus leave it with its own...I'd still like to modernize the crap out of the '72....engine wise anyway...keep round top carbs tho...gotta have authenticity ya know...anyone know bout the dizzy thing tho?