MakDiesel

I have a '72 Series II 240 and was wondering how difficult it is to transplant an electric distributor (heard the best year was a '76) to eliminate the need to keep adjusting the points. If anyone has done this let me know things like cost(if professionally done), difficulty, tools needed, exp. time if I do it myself, etc. Thanks

Nah this isn't an 'ify' bonnet connection.....the handle and about 2.5 feet of cable are laying in my passenger floorboard where It was left, so it is very, very inoperable in it's current state....I tried to get under it and flip it manually but the awkward header pipe kept me from going much further than the throttle....I'm going to try using an extension tomorrow maybe if I have time....I'm off 3rd this weekend so I might as well try all I can while I still have the time. BTW I know what you all are talking about with the hard pulling latch, my current '81 the '72 will eventually replace has to have quite a man-jerk to get it to pop, and an equally violent force to get it to shut. Guess it's a Z thing......like rear end clunk and clocks having an expiration date of XX years Anyway, I'll be putting 100+ lb. test on the next bonnet release, plus a back up.

Thanks guys....as soon as it will stop storming over here in NC for days on end I'll get around to trying the most simple method then work my way up to removal of the hood if that's what it takes. I'll also install the backup cuz you can never have too many....BTW, I did actually buy the car w/o looking under the hood Thing is, its a series II '72 (my dream year), had mild rust, clean and seamless interior, new wheels/tires, etc all for $1500....id been looking for one in my area for 5 months now...this was IT....so what can i say i leaped for it....and if all else fails, I still got my '81 to swap...least I had at least one backup I'll let u know how it goes...peace

Just bought a '72 series II (today actually) but the only real problem with the car body wise is the hood release cable broke off a few weeks back and thus.....can't open the hood due to the spring...I was wondering how to well, open the hood if the cable is inoperative.....the sooner the better b/c I need to check the oil level and carbs need adjusting BAD (hestiates under load and will stall after getting warm) Thanks in advance.

I've been asked on more than a few occasions if I'm a trucker/hauler cuz I guess they see it as a 'Mack Diesel Semi' but since I'm 19 that scenario is less than likely. Anway I got the 'Mak" from my mom actually....oddly enough it is the first half of "MakDaddy", the name she gave me one day while in high school because in a single afternoon 4 different girls called my house looking for me.(What can I say I'm a man-whore......nah it wasn't actually like that, they all had boyfriends...ok that didn't make it sound any better....nevermind then, think the worst The "Diesel" is a reference to the uses of diesel fuel...usually heavy duty applications, refering to my heavy duty past, which is as checkered as the tile floor at any Steak n' Shake. Not so much things I've done so much as what fate has bestowed upon me. (Long story short, the $^!# has hit my fan more than a few times) anyway the other 'Diesel' meaning is again car-related, comparing the condition in which an engine continues to run even after the ignition is turned off and the key is removed....the other half of the metaphor states that even after ppl have quit on me/screwed me over I keep on going....like an internal combustion energizer bunny if you will. Anyway, that's my 3-Deep SN explaination......most anything I produce (expression) is complicated, jus my nature.....aight peace

Ha I'm literally days away from closing a deal that will net me a orange/red '72.....should I be worried? I haven't wrecked my primered out '81 zx yet but my first car, a '95 Dakota Sport 4-banger, got a lil taste of Grand Am arse one day on the way to school....$100 later for a new bumper and all was well tho...ok, except for the 3 points on my license but still! (Still got to work those off) I plan on keeping this old/new '72 til cars become obsolete (oooo hovercraft!....yeah but is that 2056 Nissan 850Hovercraft ZXTTTT exempt from smog? Didn't think so...) so It's safe to say I need it to last me awhile. And I need to get out more....apparently....anyway here's a warning to all deer, carjackers, family members, ricer boys, hail storms, nails on the highway, stationary trees close to a sharp curve, voodoo, and most importantly air+water+exposed sheetmetal.....if you EVER hurt my car in anyway, I'm gonna cry ...but soon after that, I'll hurt YOU....esp. you rust you suck. Yeah I need sleep, aight peace, AD

If my ZX looked like that I wouldn't complain.....hell, if my ZX was down to just 1 or 2 colors I wouldn't complain Ha I enjoy the simple things, like an exhaust gasket....anyway after hearing of the woes of a former Z going ZX I thought I'd fill the void by enticing a few on my venture from a ZX to a Z. As some may know my current '81 280zx 5-sp is on it's structural deathbed, cancer has taken her slowly but surely unless I can come up w/ $1k in welding repairs....so I opted to join the elite instead and start all over w/ a fresh (If you consider 31-yr-old fresh) '72 240. I've been searching for a decent 70-73 in NC forever now but luck or subtle hell has shined upon me and I am very close to grabbing a questioanbly reliable one only 30 min from me (oh god yes finally!) As soon as the rust pics come back (sadly she has some but im keeping my fingers crossed for just benign surface spots, please no holes, NO HOLES!) ill have you all an answer and details (dont want to count the chicks before they hatch) I may just get my fav. Z year before hell freezes over yet....peace If not, then..well....:sick:

Yeah I have SO much resentment for the military and it's monuments of inefficiency that I didn't believe half of what they said whilke I was there. Pee Wee and Carey yes b/c I had heard something on them b4....Rogers was if'y but it sounded like it fit....i wont try to believe one of the other til i see proof of a DD214. Anyway, yeah I'm still on the hunt for a '72 240z/L28 hybrid 5-speed. And btw, radio is the only media that does not lie (remember "War of the Worlds"?)

While in Parris Island (a.k.a. hell) boot camp last winter, I distinctly remember them naming 'famous' former Marines that first horrible week in November....among the list were Drew Carey, Dee Snider of 80's glam rock Twisted Sister (was a Drill Instructor), Mr. Rogers was a friggin' sniper! (he supposedly wore long sweaters every show to hide his arm tattoos) and yes, Paul Rueubens (a.k.a. Pee Wee Herman) When I saw that lil ex-jerker in front of the Nash all this info jus clicked back into my head.....but since this is a Z forum....uh.....'81 turbos ran 7 psi stock and could probably take up to 10psi before additional engine mods would be needed (Intercooler, fuel pump, psi regulator, etc) If I'm wrong (about Pee Wee) someone correct me but everyday of my existance in Parris Island is very detailed in my mind.....bad $^!# usually stays around longer, peace

starboard side

my dream L28

If she's good as gold then she's good to roll! Snatch that beast...If it's as mint as you say $5k isn't outrageous, but too steep for my poor arse...You might be more affluent...If she's the car you have your heart set on I'd haggle jus a lil' and then probably buy her. ZX's like you are describing don't come around everyday. ALL records, no rust, under 100K miles = dayum lucky. Sounds to me like a virgin showcar but don't let looks fool you either. Be careful and realistic about any big purchase. Know what it is you want and what exactly it is you are getting, coupled by what it's actually worth. If it wasn't for the automatic (I'll never drive slush box til my foot breaks off, but that's jus me) I wouldn't mind taking a gander at the car myself. If you still aren't sure what to do, check her out deeper, details this time, make sure to get a good test drive in, then decide. Let us know what happens, and send pics if you can either way.

Let me rephrase my poll intro...I know what I want...I also know my limitations (money, I'm on the friggin' east coast, no MIG welder, unquinchable thirst for something different and fast as balls, etc) So I ask from a TECHNICAL standpoint, what is the best Z-ZX....ok ok just vote I don't give a crap why or how I was jus curious...Doesn't really matter what you all post I'll still keep my dream in my mind...('72 shell (cuz they were safer, still light, small bumpers, and the quinks of the first 2 years were somewhat hammered out) rolling with a RB26DETT ok wait I WAS DREAMING THERE...my '81 L28 rebuilt to the hilt as I call it running FI, ungodly turbo, blah blah blah here I have a pic from Turbo mag of everything...it's quite sweet rated 450-500hp (prob. flywheel but still....::salivates::

Yeah I went looking for a '70-'73 240 but came out with a great deal anyway...my 280zx isn't ANYWHERE close to where I want it to be (performance or appearance wise) but til I find a rust-free Z shell I'll slowly turn her into a wannabe. I'm still keeping the motor/tranny/diff./memories for a 240/L28 swap when she gets 'replaced' so my half n' half will work perfect: the best of both worlds if you ask me. Personally, trucks do nothing for me...My first car was a truck...a slow dodge 4-banger...it got my through high school then I sold it for somethin more my speed...and so the thirst began...good luck w/ the 'Vette -- I prefer the '79 era bodystyle (b4 the mid eighties destroyed the curves) jus my $.02, peace

I've never done one so any previous poll-makers can help me out...I've clicked the yes! post a poll' box but when previewed I dont get the click-boxes

hey now, I'm avidly looking for a 240 (body anyway) and it's not my fault there are no decent 70-78 on the east coast...least not in the financial range of an indepedent college student...and finally the ZX motor block and head actually were the strongest and most durable of ANY of the L24, L26, and L28 series not to mention best diff. ratio (3.90)...If I could go back in time I would have gladly slapped the Nissan engineers myself for the way they distanced themselves from the heritage of the Z, concentrating rather on how well the spoiled driver was accustomed by crap that was powered by lil electric motors that added XXX pounds instead of devising ways to lighten the fat bastard up and make a better power to weight ratio. (Hell I don't even use half the "luxury" $^!# on my GL anyway..not that it works anymore after the 'diet' I put it on but still...) And even tho my $500 piece doesn't win any car shows (yet)......it's paid for, and that's good enough for me (for now) Peace I'm done ranting now :tapemouth P.S. -- my 280zx IS NOT a luxury vehicle...It's a girl in her early twenties that once was 'the fat girl' til she met this new guy who could drive so she started cleaning herself up to look good for him -- he encouraged her to better herself so 4 months later she had dropped 115lbs...she's still working on her exhaust leak...

Here a few things to consider (and I will follow this exact advice next time myself): I bought my current '81 280zx N/A 5-speed GL 4 months ago for $500 from a guy at an auction. It had 177K, paint (black) was oxidated, some surface rust, extensive underbody rust (It didn't look so bad at first), the clutch was all but sent to hell, hestiated under throttle, battery was dead the first time, it had been sitting on the lot for 6+ months, and the most foreboding thing was the gallon jug of water sitting impatiently on the pass. side floorboard (which later was used more than a dozen times before I found the cracked water pump.) In short, it was a P.O.S. but happened to be the only pre-84 Z in my town for a decent price (old school Enkei's too!) so I bought it and I'm still fixing her as I go. That's my comparison, so here's what to do: 1) ask as many questions as you can (accident history, RUST, known issues, rebuild?, replacement parts, ask for records, quirks, etc) 2) If the guy isnt too trustworthy, write down the VIN and run a check for poss. secrets. If you are REAL picky check to make sure the motor/tranny numbers match to the car) 3) IMPORTANT! Test drive it. You'll be spending a lot of time (and hopefully not too much money) on your new investment so might as well get the feel and notice its faults right off (hesitation, starting, funny shifts, etc). 4) Super duper inspect it. Engine itself, engine bay itself, under wheel wells, frame rails, rockers, quarter panels, hatch seals, under carpet (esp. in the driver and pass. floor pans), try everything electrical out (lights, brights, hazards, wipers, heater, a/c, etc) Basically run your eyes over every poss. square inch so there are no surprises. 5) If you can bring a much more knowledgable mechanic with you (friend, dad, brother, etc) then let them double-check any mistakes you (the eager buyer) will overlook. 6) If all checks ok to your standards, then I'd go for it. Not many zx's are left in what I'd call 'excellent' condition anymore. My poor baby was neglected til I found her. The only factor after the inspection is your opinion. Should you pay $5k for a 20-yr-old car? I've seen ppl pay more for some, most less or around the same. Haggle a bit and if he's not hangin on for dear life he might go down a few or more hundred. (I talked my guy down from $1200. All I had to do was keep naming stuff that was wrong with it til he leveled with me. I don't advise this too much. Unless it really seems to work the first time.) In conclusion, if the car is what you want (faults n' all) at a price you can afford, you'll enjoy it. (At least better than your old car. Even I can say that. Old car = '95 Dodge Dakota Sport 2.5L 5-sp.) Hope my novel helps you out, sorry it's so long, but it reminds you to be thorough. Peace, AD

It's just about oil change time (or flush the abuse out from the previous owner time) on my ZX and was wondering (since I've owned my car 4 months and some of you are tackin' decades) what grade oil to use now that I'm done using the cheap stuff for normal new purchase routine maintenance checklists (plugs, filters, rotor, oil change(s), etc) Here are my details: Car: '81 280zx GL 5-speed non-turbo Engine: L28E FI Mileage: 177K original (no rebuild...yet) Location: Central NC (summer weather ranges 70-95 degrees F) Driving style: Shift between 2400-3000 RPM (I'm easy on my old motor) Desire: a reliable daily driver (good mpg, decent performance, and most of all, longevity) The only reason I'm asking is cuz I've heard everything from use Castrol 30W to mobil 1 synthetic (and watch my car blow that $5/qt. brown liquid out all the seals) not to mention my last vehicle was a truck so I call upon the vast knowledge of 3K worth of Z owners(and Z dreamers) alike. Thanx Peace

What are the detailed condition of the 2 240's? I'm only concerned with rust and degree of completion. Pics work too. Thx, peace