kayinsunz

I set it up the exact way you just describe and never got a response from the tach. I'm guessing it was bad, because I did the 280z tach swap and it finally works! Thanks for the input C

Once again, classiczcars to the rescue. Worked great. Thanks for the input! C

Used this to swap mine. Tach reads perfectly, thanks for the write up. only problem is now the backlights for the tach do not work, neither do the blinker lights. Any ideas ? Thanks

So, let me start off by saying that classiczcars.com is by far the most helpful, accurate Z Car website by far. Thanks to a write up by BlueisNow, I was easily able to swap the internals from a 280z tach into a 240z tach and now my tach reads PERFECTLY! Big up to the man like that.. So, now that I've swapped it, the backlighting will not turn on, neither will the blinker lights. Any of you fine gentlemen ever experienced this before? Thanks for reading, C

Thanks for the response. I will take pictures after work tomorrow. But the only thing confusing me is that one BW wire is significantly larger that the other. The GW wire is the same diameter as the larger BW wire. The smaller BW wire is skinny and conjoined with a same size B wire via a coupler. Will try to swap the two and see. C

air, fuel, spark to start. since you knocked your pump wire out it's safe to assume that its fuel. when you give it throttle, do the carbs cough? or do they wizz fuel? or niether?

Hey guys, back again. 71 240z is running great, but I cant get the tach to work. I have a .3 ohm Pertronix coil and Pertronix Ignitor. I have tried the stock wiring, and various other wiring, but to no avail. I did notice that there is a GW wire, a larger BW wire, and the another smaller BW wire wich is conjoined with a B wire via a coupler. Right now I have the GW on the front side of the ballast along with the conjoined smaller BW and B wires, and the larger BW wire on the rear side of the ballast along with the R wire from the Ignitor. The B wire from the Ignitor is on the - post of the coil and a small B wire connecting the + coil post to the front side of the ballast. Sorry, I know it's alot so I will post pictures if needed. Any thoughts fine gentlemen? Thanks, C

What do people usually use to coat it after cleaning it? I'm assuming some sort of rust prev coating from an aresol can.. If so, how do they coat it? thanks

It's running great actually. I adjusted the floats (again) and it hasn't stalled out yet, I think the needles were closing to early. I'm going to keep toying with the carbs and see, in the mean time I'll drop the tank

I'm going to revive this topic 3 years later lol.... So, thanks to some of the forum's heavy hitters, I was able to get my 240 awake and out of the garage. I'm now having the exact same problem. Only difference is, I'm running a 2 gallon gas can as my fuel source for the time being until I can get the tank dropped and cleaned. I've replace all of the rubber lines up front, adjusted the bowls, etc. I was thinking it could be due to a vacuum leak of some sort. Any ideas?

Damn I Guess its next week, won't be able to get off of work that soon. Going to have to take the next year pass

I wonder how some of the old timers tune dual carbs without using tools. Have a flow meter on the way but still, would like to build the skill to just see, taste, touch and smell my way to a perfect tune ?

Saw this and thought it might work for dual SUs, what do you guys think?

So I finished the emissions delete tonight. I must say, it looks so much better without the chaos of vacuum lines. Just force threaded some flywheel bolts from an old ford 302 that I rebuilt awhile back. There is an exhaust line behind the breather tube that I decided not to mess with. I removed the anti-backfire valve and it sounded soooo nice but I saw some flames pop out and decided to quickly thread it back on. Going to find a a way to leave it off and use a vacuum hose to direct it away from the carbs to keep that sound.

How did you get you intake manifold and fuel lines all polished like that?