kayinsunz

It's an electrical pump rated 5.5psi to 9psi. Could this explain why it hardly runs? Is it flooding?

New to the forum and already feel welcome, thank you for that. Anyways, thanks to a suggestion Zed Head, I was able to hear my 240z sputter up for time last night. Unfortunatly, it won't stay running for more than 30 seconds. The guy I bought it from said it was running good when he parked it, but then he tried to adjust the carbs and screwed them up. It sputters up after cranking for 10 seconds, and within 15 seconds fuel is pissing from the float intake hose, and soon after starts pissing out of the carburator air horn as the engine misses, backfires, and dies. What am I missing? I can already tell this forum is a plethora of information so if there is a similar thread I miss feel free to send me that way. Thank you for any suggestions. -KS

@Zed Head. YOU ARE THA MAN Sparking strong on crank. Lessons learned: don't throw parts at a car without understanding the systems. Thank you so much.

Well, I have a new one on the way from ZcarDepot. But I just checked the wiring setup to the ballast resistor and GW wire wasn't connected to the resistor at all, it was connected to the ground side of the coil. Going to strap it to the Start power side of things. Will post results.

Right, well I jumped the coil to the battery and get the same condition. I'm going to check the ballast resistor now and see if my GW wire is loose or disconnected. And call me a dummy but these '71 diagrams look like a maze of matrix code lol. Thanks again for the assist Zed.

I see what you mean. No offense taken. On the ballast resistor, in the start circuit on the headlight side or the firewall side? I'll run through the service manual again in the meantime.

I forgot to mention that I tried that as well. But, I'll have a look at the diagrams and see what I can find. Thank you sir.

Hi all, have been reading these forums for a long time but first time poster. Happy to be here I bought a 71 240z that was sitting for 4 years. Engine is complete, and cranks well but does not start. I already suspect a carb rebuild... But I thought I'd start with spark. When I first got the car in my garage I noticed no spark at all from the coil to the valve cover, cranking or not. Saw that the guy i bought it from wired the Pertronix Ignitor negative wire to the positive post on the coil, and the positive wire from the Ignitor to the ballast resistor. Since its a 3ohm coil, I wired the Ignitor properly to the coil. Now the coil wire does not spark to the valve cover while cranking, but as soon as I let off the key it sparks strong 1-3 times. I have replaced the ignition switch, rotor, coil, and dizzy cap with no avail. Jumped the battery to the Ignitor and still, same condition. Next steps are new Ignitor, and new starter. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks for having me on the forum.